nozzle removing tool and bearings

[CXR100]

anybody use the nozzle removing tool that hwos sell? is it any good for the price they ask for it? also I recently replaced a motor and oil pump in a riello burner. I took the old motor out and it spins ok and nice and free id say, but the old oil pump is very stiff and there was a lot of brownish rust around where the drive coupling sits . what would have caused this?? and can I replace a motor in a oil pump or only in a motor? and how do I go about this? thanks

 

[SimonG]

Forget the nozzle changing tool, pile of poop.

 

[Millsy 82]

16mm spanner does the job perfectly.

 

[CXR100]

ok guys, so how do I change a bearing? can it be done on the oil pump and motor?? thanks

 

[lame plumber]

once a fuel pump is knacked its knackered. re motor just whip off fan and use a bearing puller to change the 2 bearings.

 

[Dotty]

I need to get a new bearing puller. Mine's somewhere obscure and god knows where.....

Where's the best place to get a decent one for burner motors?

 

[CXR100]

I have also been looking for one croppe, anybody recommend a good one? I did my own pegler tap headgear puller once!!! still got it!!! anybody else done something similar??

 

[CXR100]

maby this one 450494 Mini Arm Bearing Puller Vice Car Truck Gear Press Pulley Tools 70*120MM | eBay

 

[bright spark]

For removing nozzles try using a saltus wrench 16mm. Scaffolders use this, you'll get a picture of 1 on wikipedia. It has a socket permanently fixed and the handle can move around to be attached at different angles. It can fit down between slot in diffuser and electrodes so ye don't have to remove them. Been using one 20 plus years. A little trick I picked up off d ould fella.

regarding motor bearings just feck motor out. Anytime I change burner motor just pick up new fan. Saves time trying to extract fan off old shaft. Makes life handy, and sure the customers paying.
only change bearings on air heaters. Can be a bit tricky.
was in 1 job one day with my brother. Air heater screaming, needed new bearings. Boss in factory said he needed price. My bro told him it tricky. Maybe 2 hrs, maybe the day. If he wanted price we'd have to price for day. Customer not happy. My brother said no problem. Packed up tool bag and said when walked out d door he wouldn't have to listen to screaming heater. Customer gave him the go ahead straight away.
Got a good laugh outa me brother and his sales technique that day.

 

[lame plumber]

still got my set of sykes pickavant pullers from when I got my first car. Was going to suggest getting those as they have lasted me some 30 plus years, then I looked p the price of them now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[MarkOil]

It can fit down between slot in diffuser and electrodes so ye don't have to remove them. Been using one 20 plus years. A little trick I picked up off d ould fella.

So for 20 plus years you've taken the blast tube off, cleaned around the nozzle holder, diffuser or electrodes or checked HT Leads for any damage? I'll stick with taking it all apart and making sure it's all clean and that nothing could cause a possible breakdown for the next 12months.
Agree with Millsy 82 - 16mm spanner.

 

[Dotty]

So for 20 plus years you've taken the blast tube off, cleaned around the nozzle holder, diffuser or electrodes or checked HT Leads for any damage? I'll stick with taking it all apart and making sure it's all clean and that nothing could cause a possible breakdown for the next 12months.
Agree with Millsy 82 - 16mm spanner.

There's burners where a 16mm socket is the only way to get nozzles out. Ever played with a riello dual fuel? Manufacturer states use a 16mm socket.

 

[lame plumber]

So for 20 plus years you've taken the blast tube off, cleaned around the nozzle holder, diffuser or electrodes or checked HT Leads for any damage? I'll stick with taking it all apart and making sure it's all clean and that nothing could cause a possible breakdown for the next 12months.
Agree with Millsy 82 - 16mm spanner.

wondered how a previous techie managed to change the nozzles on an older rayburn, seeing as the custard commented no one has ever taken that off before a few weeks back

 

[bright spark]

Ah lads whatever of course you have to strip it all down on a service, but all I'll say is if ye ever have to just check/change a faulty nozzle, it's a fast way of doing it.
Keep yer hair on.

 

[Best]

Motor bearings are a thing that can give trouble in a 2 year old burner motor, or last 20 years. So I would always replace the bearings. Some motors are fairly costly, but pair of bearings are only a fiver.
The way I look at it is the motor has to be removed & it's fan if a bearing is faulty, so another 2 minutes to replace both bearings is no big deal. I fix them all & have also replaced bearings on same motors several years later.
If we are all to take the attitude of saving a few minutes & bother when a tiny part goes wrong, then where does it all end - replacing the entire burner? Mad.

 

[Millsy 82]

If we are all to take the attitude of saving a few minutes & bother when a tiny part goes wrong, then where does it all end - replacing the entire burner? Mad.

No your completely wrong. If you have a problem it's new boiler time! Saves any call backs. Lol.

 

[lame plumber]

tried helping a customer recently by using a 2nd hand burner for him, after the third call back, vowed never again. Problems even though I had replaced bits on it 3 months ago to check it worked ok!!! and his boiler also started to cause other issues, basically it needed replacing but he begged no money, later he said he should have cough for a new one, but now its working, he'll use what he saved for an xmas break abroad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bunker]

What size are the bearings?
I often find that a good squirt of 3in1 fixes most screaming bearings. If they feel rough, I change the motor, that way they get new brushes etc too. Most of my custards would rather pay the extra £40 odd quid and get a new unit.

 

[Best]

What size are the bearings?
I often find that a good squirt of 3in1 fixes most screaming bearings. If they feel rough, I change the motor, that way they get new brushes etc too. Most of my custards would rather pay the extra £40 odd quid and get a new unit.

Most burner motors don't have brushes Bunker. They are induction motors - that's why they need a capacitor to start them & in the right direction. Frankly I think of them as very hardy in general & I just replace the bearings. Customers do think they are getting the best deal if they get a whole new part, but I think that is wrong on a motor that is well within its expected life. A motor of 10 or 15 year old with average normal use is probably still in good shape.

 

[Bunker]

Ah, thanks for that pal, I didnt realise. Personally I like to fix things rather than replace them so that does appeal. In future Ill reserve the swap outs for really knackered units. A small bag of bearings does appeal rather than my 50Kg box of new motors...Ill rip one down to see what size they are, I have tons of sizes for my motorbikes.

Most burner motors don't have brushes Bunker. They are induction motors - that's why they need a capacitor to start them & in the right direction. Frankly I think of them as very hardy in general & I just replace the bearings. Customers do think they are getting the best deal if they get a whole new part, but I think that is wrong on a motor that is well within its expected life. A motor of 10 or 15 year old with average normal use is probably still in good shape.

 

[CXR100]

6202 bunker

 

[CXR100]

I just bought these, seem a good deal , around £5 to repair a motor like this!!Oil boiler burner motor bearings.Engineers pack of 10 | eBay

 

[lame plumber]

just go to hwos and get 2 of each of theirs.

 

[Best]

Most burner motors nowadays use the above pair of bearings.

 

[Bunker]

Ah 6202 thanks - they are the 2RS (rubber sealed both sides) not the metal shields as stated on that ebay listing. We use the same size on our motorcycles. Beware, there is a huge difference between ok and good quality bearings, for prices see:

Bearing Boys :: for all your bearing and power transmission needs :: SKF Ball Bearings, Vee & Wedge Belts

I would only use a named unit like ***, Koyo, NSK or SKF. The C3 will last longer but probably not necessary in those motors.

 

[rpm]

C3, isn`t that high speed or high tempreture bearings?
When fitting to shaft only it`s best to use a hollow drift that covers the whole of the inner race rather than the North / South / East and West approach with a pin punch and if it`s shaft & housing at the same time then a hollow drift that covers both inner and outer race`s.

Still got selection of 2 & 3 legged pullers somewhere, I`ll dig them out and if still good I`ll put them in the For Sale forum.

 

[Bunker]

C3 is just the clearance inside for the expansion of the balls, ideal if on a rough running environment like a wheel or timing chain but our application is smooth so relatively stress free.

C3, isn`t that high speed or high tempreture bearings?
When fitting to shaft only it`s best to use a hollow drift that covers the whole of the inner race rather than the North / South / East and West approach with a pin punch and if it`s shaft & housing at the same time then a hollow drift that covers both inner and outer race`s.

Still got selection of 2 & 3 legged pullers somewhere, I`ll dig them out and if still good put them in the For Sale forum.

 

[rpm]

Yeah that`s it, allows for high tempretures. Used to do a lot of commercial motors and fans.

 

[Best]

Use an ordinary brass 1/2" old ball valve tail (without the nut obviously) to slip over the motor shaft & hammer it with a mallet to tap the bearings home. Fits perfectly against the solid centre of bearing - so won't damage the new bearing.