Discuss nozzle removing tool and bearings in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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If we are all to take the attitude of saving a few minutes & bother when a tiny part goes wrong, then where does it all end - replacing the entire burner? Mad.

No your completely wrong. If you have a problem it's new boiler time! Saves any call backs. Lol.
 
tried helping a customer recently by using a 2nd hand burner for him, after the third call back, vowed never again. Problems even though I had replaced bits on it 3 months ago to check it worked ok!!! and his boiler also started to cause other issues, basically it needed replacing but he begged no money, later he said he should have cough for a new one, but now its working, he'll use what he saved for an xmas break abroad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
What size are the bearings?
I often find that a good squirt of 3in1 fixes most screaming bearings. If they feel rough, I change the motor, that way they get new brushes etc too. Most of my custards would rather pay the extra £40 odd quid and get a new unit.
 
What size are the bearings?
I often find that a good squirt of 3in1 fixes most screaming bearings. If they feel rough, I change the motor, that way they get new brushes etc too. Most of my custards would rather pay the extra £40 odd quid and get a new unit.

Most burner motors don't have brushes Bunker. They are induction motors - that's why they need a capacitor to start them & in the right direction. Frankly I think of them as very hardy in general & I just replace the bearings. Customers do think they are getting the best deal if they get a whole new part, but I think that is wrong on a motor that is well within its expected life. A motor of 10 or 15 year old with average normal use is probably still in good shape.
 
Ah, thanks for that pal, I didnt realise. Personally I like to fix things rather than replace them so that does appeal. In future Ill reserve the swap outs for really knackered units. A small bag of bearings does appeal rather than my 50Kg box of new motors...Ill rip one down to see what size they are, I have tons of sizes for my motorbikes.

Most burner motors don't have brushes Bunker. They are induction motors - that's why they need a capacitor to start them & in the right direction. Frankly I think of them as very hardy in general & I just replace the bearings. Customers do think they are getting the best deal if they get a whole new part, but I think that is wrong on a motor that is well within its expected life. A motor of 10 or 15 year old with average normal use is probably still in good shape.
 
Most burner motors nowadays use the above pair of bearings.
 
C3, isn`t that high speed or high tempreture bearings?
When fitting to shaft only it`s best to use a hollow drift that covers the whole of the inner race rather than the North / South / East and West approach with a pin punch and if it`s shaft & housing at the same time then a hollow drift that covers both inner and outer race`s.

Still got selection of 2 & 3 legged pullers somewhere, I`ll dig them out and if still good I`ll put them in the For Sale forum.
 
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C3 is just the clearance inside for the expansion of the balls, ideal if on a rough running environment like a wheel or timing chain but our application is smooth so relatively stress free.

C3, isn`t that high speed or high tempreture bearings?
When fitting to shaft only it`s best to use a hollow drift that covers the whole of the inner race rather than the North / South / East and West approach with a pin punch and if it`s shaft & housing at the same time then a hollow drift that covers both inner and outer race`s.

Still got selection of 2 & 3 legged pullers somewhere, I`ll dig them out and if still good put them in the For Sale forum.
 
Yeah that`s it, allows for high tempretures. Used to do a lot of commercial motors and fans.
 
Use an ordinary brass 1/2" old ball valve tail (without the nut obviously) to slip over the motor shaft & hammer it with a mallet to tap the bearings home. Fits perfectly against the solid centre of bearing - so won't damage the new bearing.
 
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