Inlet valve in cistern will not sit tight to bottom of cistern.

[Nik]

Hi

I have always replaced the cistern valve myself. Usually use a torbeck valve. It has always been straight forward and quick.

We have a compression elbow joint isolator (15 mm 1/2) just beneath the inlet hole in the cistern. Just enough space to accommodate the screw portion of the inlet valve.

Recently, had a sanislim fitted to replace an oldr sani pump T12. Plumber did not disconnect CISTERN from inlet pipe and pushed sanislim tight against inlet pipe for cistern, by jiggling the toilet and cistern.

Inlet valve then would not stop flowing. He refused to accept responsibility as he did not disconnect or touch the inlet valve. Not a problem.

I purchased a new fluid master inlet valve. Fitting sizes are the same. The compression joint with isolator also needed replacing, which I purchased and replaced.

Everything should have been as before.

I am know unable to connect the inlet valve to the compression joint, as there is a 5/8 inch gap inside the cistern, where the rubber washer should connect with the bottom of the cistern. Therefore the washer is not plugging the gap between the lip on the bottom of the inlet valve and the bottom of the cistern.

Either the toilet and cistern is now sitting lower than before, or the inlet pipe is sitting higher than before.

Unless I apply significant pressure to the inlet valve, it will not sit as it should. Allowing for the washer to do its job.

Other than cutting the inlet pipe to fit a flexible compression hose with isolation valve, I am lost as to how to get around this issue.

There does not appear to be enough room to fit a flexible hose, even if I were to remove the elbow compression joint? The flexible hoses I have seen do not appear to be that flexible?


Can I use a washer which is thicker?

Use two or three washers to make up the difference?

Raise the toilet and cistern by 5/8 inch?

Or can I apply enough pressure to the inlet pipe to force it to move 5/8 inch?

Any thoughts would be gratefully appreciated.

 

[clarky101]

Close coupled or washdown/ low level cistern are you talking about ?
maybe a photo could help...

 

[Best]

You must fit the inlet valve nice & tight down - no extra washers!
It is possible to cut the threads of the inlet valve & use a female fitting etc, but I wouldn't. Better you repipe below if possible. Can the pipe below not be lowered & then back up?

 

[Nik]

Thank you for your replies. I have added a picture, which may make things abit clearer.

 

[gassafe]

Cut another isolation valve in the upright section, using it to lower to the correct height needed.

Or fit with a like for like Torbeck valve... Yours probs best off with the Fluidmaster valve tho,... These are the Rolls Royce of fill valves

 

[Nik]

Thanks for your reply. I have absolutely no plumbing experience at all.
I presume you mean remove the elbow joint and cut the pipe, then solder?

Can I get a thick washer. One that is 1 inch thick?

I even left the copper olive out, as I thought it was there to protect the compression joint in the packaging.

The torbeck valve has exactly the same thread length as the fluidmaster sticking out of the bottom of the cistern.

 

[Best]

That picture shows it is an easy job. You could have the pipe shortened by turning the water off & cutting the vertical pipe & fit the valve into cistern to get correct amount to cut off pipe & use a straight isolating valve or a connector. You shouldn't have ptfe tape on threads of isolating valve, - not doing anything & a DIY mistake. Make sure you use a new washer between the inlet valve & isolating valve.
Forget about heavy washers, you must fit inlet valve properly, with it's tapered rubber washer thats supplied.

 

[Nik]

Thanks Best. Will it require any soldering?

 

[Best]

Not if you use a chrome straight isolating valve.
Personally, I would probably have used a straight iso valve & a soldered elbow & then a 90 degree tap connector (or another soldered elbow & a nut & olive to the inlet valve if it has a brass tail for copper), but you don't have to.

 

[gassafe]

Look in your local directory & support a local plumber

 

[Nik]

That has made my day.

I can not thank you enough.

All i have to do now is work out how to cut the pipe. As you can see from pic, it is sitting tight against wall.

Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted.

Does my cut have to be perfectly flat?

Is there a flexible hose I could use instead of a straight chrome isolation valve? That will fit onto the cut pipe.

 

[kozak1968]

No. flexi tap connecter will fit

 

[Nik]

Gas safe. I appreciate what you are saying.

I would normally replace the valve myself. I cannot afford to pay £80 for such a simple job.

I just paid this week, over £600 to a local plumber to fit the saniflo. It took him just over 1 hour. So I do support local plumbers.

 

[Nik]

Thanks Kozak.

Due to the space issue. Can I connect a flexible hose to the chrome straight isolation valve that Best suggested.

 

[Glenwils]

Call a plumber. It's a 10min job. It will cost you more to buy all the proppr gear than it would for a plumber to do it.

 

[kozak1968]

Can do, they make a female to female which will fit onto the male thread of the ball valve then take the nut off the ballofix valve and the female will fit. Curl the flexi in a loop if it is quite close.

 

[Nik]

Glenwills. I can not afford to pay £80 for ten minutes work. I just spent over £600 on a saniflo installation. To a plumber who said he was local, but actually lived on the other side of London somewhere.

I would give an arm or a leg to find a plumber who is as helpful as those on here.

Thanks to other advice I feel as though I can do it.

If I fail, I will have to call a plumber? But no one has money to throw away on a simple job?

 

[Best]

To try anything else is a mistake. You need the pipe cut. The others are right in saying use a local plumber. Safer. It is a few minute job for a pro (so maybe an hour charge just) & it will have cost you a lot getting materials & time.

 

[Best]

Can do, they make a female to female which will fit onto the male thread of the ball valve then take the nut off the ballofix valve and the female will fit. Curl the flexi in a loop if it is quite close.

That's why I hadn't suggested a flexi - apart from I distrust & hate them, I thought it might be too long & wouldn't advise flexis bent more than 90 degree.

 

[Nik]

Thank you Kozak and all on here.

I am not looking to take money out of the hands of Plumbers. I am merely trying to make ends meet, as we all are.

If anyone that has given me helpful advice, lives in or near Enfield then please let me know. I and my extended family would be happy to use you exclusively.

Again, Thank you so much.

I will post this site on my blogger page and on facebook.

 

[Nik]

As it is fresh in my mind (06/02/2013) and some have only advised calling a plumber.

As the saniflo installer left after being paid over £600. I asked him how to dispose of the old T12 sani pump.

He said, all it needed was a service due to limescale build up and he could do it for £120.

He would not even do this 10 minute job as in my post, as some of you have indicated it would take.

He said his colleague, who lived locally would come round and quote me for the job.

As I said I am just trying to make ends meet, like most of us are.

 

[lame plumber]

hindsight is wonderful but next time get some quotes for a saniflo install and youll have some change to fix any issues. Mind you most decent installers would do a complete job.

 

[Nik]

hindsight is wonderful but next time get some quotes for a saniflo install and youll have some change to fix any issues. Mind you most decent installers would do a complete job.

I found out from research before hand that the sanislim would cost anywhere between £350 to £450 and fitting would be anywhere from £150 to £250.

He actually did a good job with the sanislim fit. It works fine.

The fact that he could have serviced the old unit for £120 and refused to accept responsibility, was disappointing Telling me this after fitting the sanislim, was distressing at the time. But what can you do.

Also the fact that he lied about being local. We actually contacted his friend, who was local and turned up to quote a price for the issues related to the post.

At least I found this site. So something positive came out of it.

Having second thoughts about carrying out the work myself as I care for my elderly disabled mother. It may be a ten minute job for a plumber, but I would need to turn off the water from the mains, so no hot water or heating while I attempt to do the job.

Will try and ship her off for the day to my brothers house. But then will have to call out a plumber at short notice and pay more money.

As you say, would not have been a stretch fro the plumber to do an extra 10 mins.