Inlet valve in cistern will not sit tight to bottom of cistern.

[Nik]

Hi

I have always replaced the cistern valve myself. Usually use a torbeck valve. It has always been straight forward and quick.

We have a compression elbow joint isolator (15 mm 1/2) just beneath the inlet hole in the cistern. Just enough space to accommodate the screw portion of the inlet valve.

Recently, had a sanislim fitted to replace an oldr sani pump T12. Plumber did not disconnect CISTERN from inlet pipe and pushed sanislim tight against inlet pipe for cistern, by jiggling the toilet and cistern.

Inlet valve then would not stop flowing. He refused to accept responsibility as he did not disconnect or touch the inlet valve. Not a problem.

I purchased a new fluid master inlet valve. Fitting sizes are the same. The compression joint with isolator also needed replacing, which I purchased and replaced.

Everything should have been as before.

I am know unable to connect the inlet valve to the compression joint, as there is a 5/8 inch gap inside the cistern, where the rubber washer should connect with the bottom of the cistern. Therefore the washer is not plugging the gap between the lip on the bottom of the inlet valve and the bottom of the cistern.

Either the toilet and cistern is now sitting lower than before, or the inlet pipe is sitting higher than before.

Unless I apply significant pressure to the inlet valve, it will not sit as it should. Allowing for the washer to do its job.

Other than cutting the inlet pipe to fit a flexible compression hose with isolation valve, I am lost as to how to get around this issue.

There does not appear to be enough room to fit a flexible hose, even if I were to remove the elbow compression joint? The flexible hoses I have seen do not appear to be that flexible?


Can I use a washer which is thicker?

Use two or three washers to make up the difference?

Raise the toilet and cistern by 5/8 inch?

Or can I apply enough pressure to the inlet pipe to force it to move 5/8 inch?

Any thoughts would be gratefully appreciated.

 

[clarky101]

Close coupled or washdown/ low level cistern are you talking about ?
maybe a photo could help...

 

[Best]

You must fit the inlet valve nice & tight down - no extra washers!
It is possible to cut the threads of the inlet valve & use a female fitting etc, but I wouldn't. Better you repipe below if possible. Can the pipe below not be lowered & then back up?

 

[Nik]

Thank you for your replies. I have added a picture, which may make things abit clearer.

 

[gassafe]

Cut another isolation valve in the upright section, using it to lower to the correct height needed.

Or fit with a like for like Torbeck valve... Yours probs best off with the Fluidmaster valve tho,... These are the Rolls Royce of fill valves

 

[Nik]

Thanks for your reply. I have absolutely no plumbing experience at all.
I presume you mean remove the elbow joint and cut the pipe, then solder?

Can I get a thick washer. One that is 1 inch thick?

I even left the copper olive out, as I thought it was there to protect the compression joint in the packaging.

The torbeck valve has exactly the same thread length as the fluidmaster sticking out of the bottom of the cistern.

 

[Best]

That picture shows it is an easy job. You could have the pipe shortened by turning the water off & cutting the vertical pipe & fit the valve into cistern to get correct amount to cut off pipe & use a straight isolating valve or a connector. You shouldn't have ptfe tape on threads of isolating valve, - not doing anything & a DIY mistake. Make sure you use a new washer between the inlet valve & isolating valve.
Forget about heavy washers, you must fit inlet valve properly, with it's tapered rubber washer thats supplied.

 

[Nik]

Thanks Best. Will it require any soldering?

 

[Best]

Not if you use a chrome straight isolating valve.
Personally, I would probably have used a straight iso valve & a soldered elbow & then a 90 degree tap connector (or another soldered elbow & a nut & olive to the inlet valve if it has a brass tail for copper), but you don't have to.

 

[gassafe]

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