Hanging heavy rad on plasterboard wall

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Santini

I need to hang a 35kg rad (not including water weight when filled) onto a plasterboard wall. It comes with four supporting brackets but the fixings supplied are for a solid wall. Can anyone advise the strongest/best fixings to use to hold this safety in plasterboard?
 
Santini said:
I need to hang a 35kg rad (not including water weight when filled) onto a plasterboard wall. It comes with four supporting brackets but the fixings supplied are for a solid wall. Can anyone advise the strongest/best fixings to use to hold this safety in plasterboard?
Click to expand...

cant remember what its called but screwfix sell a drywall fixing ratchet tool thing, and some special fasteners to work with it.
That's what I always use into stud walls, if its dot and dabbed it depends if there's adhesive blobs behind where you are fixing the screws but you can just use brown wall plugs and decent length screws if thats the case.
 
edit // here you go

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/rawlplug-setting-tool/92462
 
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If your not in a rush hang the brackets as normal but put a squirt of sticks like sh*t all down the back edge of the bracket. Allow to go off and hang rad

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Thanks for info, have seen those setting tools and metal fixings. Will be expensive for one off job but think it's the best bet. Will grip fill too I tend to go for the belt and braces approach.
was considering taking out a piece of plasterboard to fit stud support so i could screw brackets into that. Then replace the plasterboard and tile over. Anyone think there's any point in doing this?
 
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Those Rawlplug fixings are pretty good, I've hung a 40 odd kilo rad off them, filled the system and sat on it (I weigh 90kg!!) and it didn't budge!
 
With a heavy rad on plasterboard I tend to dismantle the wall where it can't be seen then batten and fill. Takes slightly longer but you know it will hold. Often when you Fein through you find a decent stud too. A little easifil or finishing plaster hides a multitude.
 
U thinking of a molly gun?

U can get umbrella fixings with a max load capacity

OR EVEN BETTER

can you not cut section of plasterboard out and slide a piece of wood in just like you would if you were hanging a boiler on plasterboard wall?

Then screw back the bit of plasterboard and use polyfiller or what not to cover screw heads?
Then they got a easy and strong fixing to mind?
 
erpkid said:
With a heavy rad on plasterboard I tend to dismantle the wall where it can't be seen then batten and fill. Takes slightly longer but you know it will hold. Often when you Fein through you find a decent stud too. A little easifil or finishing plaster hides a multitude.
Click to expand...

Also if on first cut you find it is a dabber but no mounts near a dab then make your holes and squidge some gripfil in. Use longer standard fixings to hit the block. Screw up gently and you should be sorted. Best to leave it a bit to allow for curing. I am sure Hilti do some very expensive epoxy thing for this too.
 
Recently tried to hang a big traditional 3 column rad in an old stone cottage. Wall was lime plaster on top of stone. Of course there was no solid stone behind the exact point that I needed for the rad bracket, just a large void between stones. Bought a Rawplugs resin kit, never used one before. Despite the instructions being poor and the kit being expensive, it was brilliant. Simply embedded a threaded rod into the resin which completely filled the void. Solid as a rock, excuse the pun. Certainly got me out of a hole - excuse second pun. Despite the cost it saved me hours of work and no worry about the rad coming away when it was filled.
 
If your tiling over it cut a lump out fix battens and replace p board tile fix rad job done secure fixing and no need to buy a tool for the job
 
[DLMURL="http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Setting+Tool/p49994"]Toolstation > Screws & Fixings > Spit Fixings > Setting Tool[/DLMURL]
 
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Any kind of fixings in a stud wall will deteriorate over time, in my opinion you need to remove some board and batten where the fixings are going as mentioned above.
I knocked a rad off a stud wall at my mates house earlier this year, it didn't take much to do it.
 
you can still use those umbrella fixings without the setting tool . they have some prongs at the back which dig into the plasterboard to stop it from rotating ,if you keep it pushed in and screw it in clockwise it does the same job as the tool, you then have to take the screw back out put the bracket on and screw it back in.
 
Whenever I have to use the umbrella fixings I always drill the board first to make sure that the inside of the board is not pushed out whilst pushing the fixing into place. I also put the screw through the rad bracket first then screw it all up in one go. Having the bracket in place at first helps stop the fixing from turning.
I used to have a couple of those ratchet puller things for the fixings but like most really handy things they grew legs somehow and went for a walk!!
 
i would put some timber in if possible, if not use spring or umbrella fixings.
 
Umbrella fixings will be fine. You can often use the copper pipe, when bent properly, to take a bit of weight.
 
But what if the op has metal studs or that corrugated cardboard walls.....???
 
clarky101 said:
But what if the op has metal studs or that corrugated cardboard walls.....???
Click to expand...
i had this Thursday week ago and fitted 35kw boiler .... i predrilled the wall about 20 times and got where the steels are and used a ply bored and screw than to the studs and i promise you that would not come off
 
Straw packed walls are the worst! Have an estate full nearby, hanging a 42 cdi was fun...
 
i alwayscut out the plasterboard and fit ply behnd the board and refix the plasterboard never hada problem never use hollow board fixings as they will always come off at some point
 
As you are tiling then open it up and timber it out. If you can't do that and not tiling then I fasten a 12" high piece of ply into the studs and then fasten rad brackets to this. Size it right and you can't see it, plus if needed a coat of emulsion over the top.
 
its easier to cut out a 4" sq behind the rad and fit a plywood pad and repair takes me an extra 15 mins 100% better job
 
I've bolted radiators back to back before on that 2" thick eggbox stuff.

My preferred method is to expose some studs and fit ply level with the plasterboard. If it's not possible to find any studs a piece of ply stuck to the wall with gripfill and fixed with multiple cavity fixings is a lot more secure than just using the holes in the brackets with cavity fixings.

You can also get floor mounting stanchions for radiators.
 
if i come across paramount boarding (egg shell) i cut out 3" sq where the fixings are and use 2to1 bonding and cement goes off in no time at all and really solid
 
Had a few jobs in the past quite simular to this, but the way I had to go about it was to take the measurements of the rad when hung, and cut away the plasterboard and fix battons to the solid wall behind and make good the wall before hanging back the rad.. If the wall where it has to hang is just a plasterboard party wall, the only thing would be to build battens to the existing wall partitioning.. Well I'll go and have read of your other prvious posts.. Good luck.. Bet yul do a good job..:tongue:
 
My glue and screw method ain't let me down yet and is a lot less hassle. I would only diff about with battens in the wall if the rad was a real monster

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:bulb2:As above remove plasterboard install wood tile over good job well done and no bad press when it falls off, hollow wall anchors and spring toggles are good and we always carry on van but no need for you to use i tiling
 
No worries...won't need MT bucket and sky hooks..
 
Recently tried to hang a big traditional 3 column rad in an old stone cottage. Wall was lime plaster on top of stone. Of course there was no solid stone behind the exact point that I needed for the rad bracket, just a large void between stones. Bought a Rawplugs resin kit, never used one before. Despite the instructions being poor and the kit being expensive, it was brilliant. Simply embedded a threaded rod into the resin which completely filled the void. Solid as a rock, excuse the pun. Certainly got me out of a hole - excuse second pun. Despite the cost it saved me hours of work and no worry about the rad coming away when it was filled.


Read more: http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/p...eavy-rad-plasterboard-wall.html#ixzz2GeNfWYIl. How do these resin kits work just inject in the void and fill it so you have a hard solid surface to fix to?
 
Where can i find this glass hammer from? Sounds quite a good en...
 
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Stanley do 1 like above
 
tamz said:
A wardrobe on the other side is handy if you are stuck for a bit wood :smile:
Click to expand...

Lol Tamz, did that into a headboard hanging a rad in a bungalow when i was an apprentice, it went unnoticed for months until carer did a deep clean of said bedroom
 
Plasterboard and rads fit is a much asked question on here.
Just wish someone would put a good video on here of how to do it dead right.
With fixing selections and batten selections and why.
Did ask plumbers parts on youtube to put one together a video, but nowt showing and that was over a year go.
 
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