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Discuss Fixing a Column radiator in the Plumbing Forum | Plumbing Advice area at PlumbersForums.net

D

DazJWood

I have a Column radiator to fit to a porcelain tiled bathroom wall. The wall is breeze block covered (by solid bed of tile adhesive) with 12mm marmox board.

The column radiator has four brackets with two fixing holes on each and come with screws and wall plugs.

My questions are around the fixing of the brackets :

1. When fitting the wall plugs, should I sink them just below the tile, level with the tile, or pushed right in so they clear the marmox board and are fully in the wall? I'm thinking level with the tile may be a problem when tightened the screw and bracket, with risk of cracking tile. If I push wall plug below the surface then the screw would be unsupported at the the hole in the tile and with the weight of the radiator would surely pull the screw down and onto the tile.

2. Do I need to fix the two screws for each bracket or would I be OK with one? Reason being the slots/ holes in the bracket are fairly close together and the breeze block substrate is fairly soft. I can anticipate if I were to drill two holes into tile and through to breeze block then there's a possibility that the holes in the breeze block may end up being really weak as they will be close to each other or fracturing into one big hole.

Many thanks in advance and would appreciate any other advice or considerations I might need.

Thanks,

Daz
 
E

exedon2

First thing I would do is abandon supplied fixings usually rubbish
Is it a internal or external wall? and is is soft standard breeze block or light weight thermolite type?
Make a difference!
 
OP
D

DazJWood

First thing I would do is abandon supplied fixings usually rubbish
Is it a internal or external wall? and is is soft standard breeze block or light weight thermolite type?
Make a difference!
The included fixings and wall plugs are actually quite substantial.

Breeze block is soft to drill but wall plugs do grab fine. I installed the marmox boards with adhesive and mechanically fixed them with screws, washers and wall plugs and had no failures (no spinning wall plugs).
 
gmartine

gmartine

Gas Engineer
As long as the screws/plugs are long enough to get purchase into the block the only thing I would do is drill a larger diameter hole in the ceramic tile than you need and push the lip of the plug past the tile to avoid it cracking when you tighten down and the frame fixing expands.
 
Gasmk1

Gasmk1

Gas Engineer

not cheap but these work great on dot and dab breaching the gap and stopping the damage may be with a look at
 
W

WC1

Gas Engineer
If you like corefix, try rigifix . Same price much beefier anchor. In m6 and m8. Any length machine screw can be used.


Recommended 👍
 
OP
D

DazJWood

Not for porcelain which these tiles are. Diamond core drills are required. Already got these and already drilled through tiles for pipes. Drilling though a tile is not the reason for this post.
Post automatically merged:

Not cheap but these work great on dot and dab breaching the gap and stopping the damage may be with a look at
Yes have seen these and thought they may work. Have you used these in a similar application?

There are a number of 1 star reviews that don't give me much confidence.
 
Gasmk1

Gasmk1

Gas Engineer
Not for porcelain which these tiles are. Diamond core drills are required. Already got these and already drilled through tiles for pipes. Drilling though a tile is not the reason for this post.
Post automatically merged:



Yes have seen these and thought they may work. Have you used these in a similar application?

There are a number of 1 star reviews that don't give me much confidence.
sort of used them on extension for rads where there was dot and dab so gap between block and plasterboard also for some shelves in wife studio
 
B

Ben-gee

Esteemed
Plumber
I know it doesn’t help you this time... but for heavy column rads and even more importantly those awful towel rads with two fixing point very close together on one side and no fixings on the other side ( I hate them) . I always cut out the plasterboard; fix some ply in place (glue and screw), 18mm if there’s depth 12mm if not. Then if depth overboard the repair in 6mm hardie, if not just acrylic prime the ply- then tile over the lot.
You get a brilliant fixing and can have two screws an inch apart easily.
 
Gasmk1

Gasmk1

Gas Engineer
I know it doesn’t help you this time... but for heavy column rads and even more importantly those awful towel rads with two fixing point very close together on one side and no fixings on the other side ( I hate them) . I always cut out the plasterboard; fix some ply in place (glue and screw), 18mm if there’s depth 12mm if not. Then if depth overboard the repair in 6mm hardie, if not just acrylic prime the ply- then tile over the lot.
You get a brilliant fixing and can have two screws an inch apart easily.
had to do this when I lived in converted chap the plasterboard was 2 inches from the the brick wall for insulation so had to cut out and build up with wood
 

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