Best fix for a pipe repair on a bend?

[Mjward]

Hello!

Only myself to blame, using the jigsaw as I was taking up the bathroom floorboards and the one board I didn't look under ... Had the H&C feed.

If it was on a straight I'd be quite happy to use these copper patch repairs but as the cut is on a bend I'm assuming you don't get an adequate seal.

What is the recommended fix for this? I don't have a pipe bender so from a cost perspective would prefer to avoid removing and replacing but if that's the recommendation I'll have to make the investment.

 

[Deleted member 120897]

You’ll probably have to either get a coupling and bend the pipe, or take the board up further back to try to ascertain what can be done. As a temporary measure (I do you need it) you might be able to use a rubber hose type make up and jubilee clip.

 

[SimonG]

Clean it, flux it, solder on it as a temp repair.
Cut back pulled bends to straight pipe and connect with new pipe and fittings.

 

[Mjward]

Thanks both.

I'm actually thinking now if a hep2o fix makes the most sense given it's a bend and that lots of the pipework is being changed for hep2o anyway

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Just be careful on short sections using Hep2o, it’s harder to work with fighting against copper.

 

[Mjward]

Just be careful on short sections using Hep2o, it’s harder to work with fighting against copper.

Ah. That could be an issue then as I don't have much length to play with. Will have a crack tomorrow but failing that will have to try the copper solutions

 

[Chuck]

I think you want to keep everything in copper, soldered joints and minimise their number. If you don't own a pipe bender you can rent one from a tool hire place. If you aren't experienced at soldering, bending pipe, etc. get a plumber to do it for you.

 

[king of pipes]

I would cut it back to straight copper pipe and replace with new pipe and fittings even if timbers need removing.

 

[Mjward]

Roger that, looks like copper fix the best way

 

[gmartine]

If you finish cutting that pipe where you have and prep the ends you might have enough meat and it is straight enough to solder in a slip coupling. You have two joints there in near vicinity that you could nick a bit of length from if you need it...not what I'd do professionally of course.

 

[king of pipes]

I would cut it back to straight copper pipe and replace with new pipe and fittings even if timbers need removing.

 

[gmartine]

You may not need to pull any length off both joints...

 

[Mjward]

That is the route I'm thinking, two elbows and then a straight coupler. One more fitting than trying to bend to replicate but a lot easier for a DIYer. On closer inspection only the 22mm hot has an actual cut. I've nicked the 15mm cold but doesn't look like I need to change it

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I would do both as you have access atm nothing worse than 2 years down the line it gives out and causes damage

 

[Mjward]

I would do both as you have access atm nothing worse than 2 years down the line it gives out and causes damage

Makes sense whilst it's all exposed

 

[Timmy D]

Bending springs will be cheaper than a bender.

Or....fill the pipe with sand and bend around your knee/something similar in diameter...gas bottle etc.

 

[Mjward]

Bending springs will be cheaper than a bender.

Or....fill the pipe with sand and bend around your knee/something similar in diameter...gas bottle etc.

I've pulled the trigger on a bender. Figure I've got 2 bathrooms, an ensuite and a WC to renovate so will pay for itself through the project

 

[Timmy D]

I've pulled the trigger on a bender. Figure I've got 2 bathrooms, an ensuite and a WC to renovate so will pay for itself through the project

Nice.

Can’t remember where I got this from or the last time I looked at it but thought you may find it useful.

 

[Mjward]

That's incredibly useful! Not seem anything that clear before. Thank you! Now all I need to worry about is if I've got the muscles to bend 22mm

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Nice.

Can’t remember where I got this from or the last time I looked at it but thought you may find it useful.

View attachment 63281View attachment 63282View attachment 63283View attachment 63284View attachment 63285

From here http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/Pipe Bending (BillP).pdf

Also OP, try this: https://bpec.org.uk/wp-content/uplo...-Plumbing-Skills-Copper-Pipefinal-version.pdf

 

[Mjward]

So I've turn the mains back on, run the taps for a bit... How long do you leave it till you know you've done it right? In all seriousness, it's incredibly hard to tell if the solder has made a complete seal. I practised a little first but there is definitely a fine margin between right blow torch heat, amount of time to leave the heat on, when and how much solder to apply.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Would leave it a day once waters through but normally fine if it’s not leaking by now

 

[SimonG]

Make sure you run hot, hot water through the hot pipe. Sometimes flux will hold pressure but with hot water through it, it will melt and show any issues.

 

[gmartine]

A bit more practised required but if it holds it holds ...if you apply solder to the back of the fitting you'll know you've applied enough when you see it flow and run around the top of the fitting to the front and complete the join.

 

[king of pipes]

As others have said leave it as long as possible uncovered it will show if there's a problem , the good thing is it's repaired practice makes perfect

 

[Mjward]

Sorry for lack of response, didn't see the notification! Thanks all, certainly I won't be winning any prizes for "best soldered joint" but as you say, for a first stab the most important thing is that it's water tight, which it is. I've also had the hot, hot, hot running through for a while and so far so good.

 

[Ric2013]

Nice.

Can’t remember where I got this from or the last time I looked at it but thought you may find it useful.

View attachment 63281View attachment 63282View attachment 63283View attachment 63284View attachment 63285

Nice, but, a word of caution is that this doesn't work for all benders.