Single to double radiator - microbore pipe extention

[Bill May]

Hi all - I'm just about to start replacing some radiators in my house, the pipework is all 10mm plastic microbore (JG I believe) which comes up from the floor, not the walls. I thought I'd got everything set but as I'm changing one single to a double rad, I've overlooked the fact that the rad valves will now be ~45mm further away from the wall., so cannot just connect up to the exisitng pipework without some mods.

Annoyingly I only replaced the kitchen floor last year so there's no option to do the extention correctly under the floorboard - either I need to find another way or dont do it at all.

Can someone help me identify a way of doing this please? I know it is not going to look great but to be honest the microbore doesn't look that great anyway so aesthetics isn't really a problem.

In my head I need a couple of elbows, one to attach to the TRV/lockshield pointing 'back' to the wall, and another elbow to point it back down to the existing pipe, but then I'm stuck on how to connect those two elbows together, and is there anytihng else out there which would do the job better?

If you could help me identify the parts that would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Compression coupling and use 10 mm copper pipe bent to new distances

 

[Bill May]

Thanks - its a possibility but might be tricky to get the compression fitting on as its quite close to the skirting board, roughly 10mm gap.

 

[Rob Foster]

b 4 you start r u sure (I dont know) that the hot water supplied from the little pipe will be sufficient to get your new bigger rad up to heat.
I tried this in my gaff - 2x 4kw monster double rads off a 15mm supply - didnt work so I banged a pump on the rtn - then it went grand style

 

[Bill May]

Boiler is a WB 32CDi, I’m running 10 rads, 2 are towel rails and only one is double. Tiny rads comparatively and with it being microbore, I’m not expecting any issues adding one extra double with the capacity of the boiler.

Assuming that’s the case, any advance on the suggestion above or is that the most sensible way? Just not sure I can get a compression fitting on close to the floor, if I can’t then given I’ll need to leave the current pipe mostly in tact, not sure adding the copper has any benefits, unless it’s the only option.

 

[chris watkins]

10mm is good for about 3.5kW @ 20degC difference any larger rad and you won't get the output.
You could pipe it top & bottom opposite ends which might give you a bit more to play with.
Otherwise try using 10mm push fit street elbows (male - female ends)

 

[Rob Foster]

To be honest when was in charge of Com & Dom (my own outfit) all rad upstand pipes had to be in 15mm copper floor 2 rad- it looks good takes a bashing and is proper in my book and my customers liked it, just like all the pipes under the boiler MUST look like the steam pipes on the best ship ever

 

[Karl]

Just solder 10mm cupplings onto the pipe and do sets into valves definitely the neatest way

 

[chris watkins]

Just solder 10mm cupplings onto the pipe and do sets into valves definitely the neatest way

10mm plastic microbore (JG I believe)

I haven't managed it yet Karl soldering plastic that is but always a first (OP has JG pipe).
I watched a so called "plumber" trying to solder up a leaking tap flexi under a basin he kept going at it until the rubber was alight.
It seems any thing is possible now days!!

 

[Karl]

Fool!! I missed that bit lol