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Sanke

Hi all - considering powerflushing a customers system to try & cleanse a lot of sludge etc, Main concern would be setting machine up on a landing to connect to circulating pump. For those that do this regularly is this the best point or do you connect between a rad Any pros / cons to either Thanks guys
 
You could always connect to downstairs rad, and replace the pump with a pieceof pipe with 1" fittings either end.
 
That's the type of thing I was thinking then all waste could be straight outside ! Just wondered if any position was better or worse
 
It seems I can't add links yet, but some sites out there like, kamco website or the power flush association have faq's you could read through.

Seems to suggest a common practice is to connect to radiator in bathroom and put machine in bath tub
 
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I wouldn't be sticking your power flushing machine in a customers lovely shiny white bath if I were you, terrible idea.

Getsome long hoses or use hep, be cheaper than replacing a bath.
 
get some 10m hoses to go along with your 5m hoses and you can normally fit get the machine outside without a problem.
 
pump always, rad restricts flow. always put machine as close to pump as poss. dump hose down toilet
 
nice and warm!! all in one place, those 10m hoses look good but imagine freezing a house out in winter, leaving door open, blocking stairs when they have 5 children. from my experiences staying outside is impractical. just make sure you leave plenty of space in machine for error/ check valves. the amount of times I have moved flow direction and water starts rising. just be extra careful.
 
oh and pump is usually below f and e tank, which gives direct connection to mains, whilst leaving the kitchen tap running so they can make me loads of coffee.
 
Machine outside, hoses through window on to first floor airing cupboard, powerflush machines designed to work at 50 c so set the boiler to 55-60 and it has no probs keeping the house warm. Use out side tap or closest indoor tap to fill and gulley/drain to dump
 
Machine outside, hoses through window on to first floor airing cupboard, powerflush machines designed to work at 50 c so set the boiler to 55-60 and it has no probs keeping the house warm. Use out side tap or closest indoor tap to fill and gulley/drain to dump
all good except, you are freezing and your shoes are covered in crud from garden it decides to rain!!
 
So what about a bungalow with pump in loft and boiler near back door in kitchen ?
 
So it seems that there is not a better way just what suits the operator / circumstances. I think given the chance I would prefer to have machine etc outside especially when inexperienced !! if nothing else but to reduce the potential damage risk
 
Your all morons! What you need are lots of hoses and a tin of black shoe polish. Poke a few hoses into airing Cupboard, wedge door shut against hoses so no one can see, shove something heavy and messy infront of door. Hook up power flusher with shoe polish in. Turn heating on and play on your phone or have a snooze for 3 hours. Empty black water out and refill with clean hot water from the DC on cylinder. Another quick knap. ÂŁ650 thanks bye!! Only kidding. Garages are best for pf. Then the drive way at the front - show off what your doing. Looks best on a freezing day - lots of steam. Plus u can hibernate in van whilst it's doing its thing and the apprentice is opening and closing valves!!
 
Plus u can hibernate in van whilst it's doing its thing and the apprentice is opening and closing valves!!

Could NEVER admit to having done that :grin:
 
The other thing is put on one of those plastic things that builders use for mixing muck
 
Could NEVER admit to having done that :grin:

I eer was just suggesting it. I was once overcome by the heat and comfort in a van after a vast quantity of tea and ken bruice , passed out when doing paperwork
 
Depends on system, your system seems like its an conventional, maybe open vented, leaving your system aside; I will say however, I have used a kamko, but as it was a two man job filling and dumping ( no jokes please), as needed, easier if machine was outside, as cold flow can exceed the overflow especially if frothing in machine.
i now have a MAGNACLENSE, you use boiler or system pump and as MAGNACLENSE is sealed, you can leave the flushing kit, when you go round and turn rads off/on and bang the rads with the cordless hammer drill, but I feel power flushing machine does a better job.

But be aware, some methods of power flushing have a detrimental effect on some system parts, I powerflushed a bosch 550 a long time ago and shredded the 3 port valve internal rubber ball, so talk to the boiler manufacturers technical section before you start and get the heads up.
 
Most instructions will say suitably flushed don't specify powerflushing

What do you mean by "suitably flushed", as opposed to power flushed?
I've always thought that power flushing is the easiest way and more importantly the most effective way to clean a system out.
 
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i always look to taking the pump out to flush although i have bought one of those bolt on thingys that kamco do to replace the pump head but havent used it yet. i often have to put the machine on the landing and use one of the shallow builders tubs already mentioned together with a dust sheet works great for me
 
Any of you got custom power flushing kit? Have been looking at a 260lpm / 9 bar pump, obviously 9 bar no chance but 260 on some if the bigger stuff might be nice? Only probs I can see are hoses and reliability. ???
 
I have the full Kamco set up and I also sought out a large bund to sit the unit in, cost me ÂŁ60 but well worth it!
 
I do powerflushes with another lad so one constantly reversing flow back and forth whilst the other is on the rad hammer and magnetic roller. I believe it can be as thorough a job if doing it on your own.
 
***** CAN'T be as thorough. Typo !
 
For those of you the PF do you ever have problems with leaks in the pipework etc. afterwards ? Do you explain risk to HH before to cover yourself ?
 
For those of you the PF do you ever have problems with leaks in the pipework etc. afterwards ? Do you explain risk to HH before to cover yourself ?

Always explain to client that old rads may get pinholes whilst we are flushing especially if some sort of rad seal has been put in the system before.

Also check your drain offs! They've been known to fly out under pressure according to a couple of lads I know
 
I use a Kamco template disclaimer and have had small leaks, but mainly rad valves when trying to balance system.
 
I also get them to sign, print and date disclaimer and attach it to my paperwork for my records.
 
Any additional problems are additional and therefore chargeable !
 
Just read through post and my own opinion/experience is that power flushing a system will always work better through the pump unions or if possible get into primaries. The problem with using rad valves is that the pipes are 10/15mm then the valves restrict the flow further. If possible run the boiler to heat the system also. If system is open vented remove F&E the. Link up primary cold feed/open vent rather than blanking off. Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs.
 
I think Kamco said when on their training course that if you have to go in via a rad then remove rad valves as they had tested setups and it restricted flushing by something like 50% if valves left in place.
 
I was just offering my opinion & personally would prefer to get into primaries ie 22/28mm pipes or pump block etc.
 
Just put the question into Google search and many come up like the one below:
Powerflushing Central Heating Systems Powerflush Plumbing Surrey Hampshire


Many plumbing/gas websites now state the following:
"It has now become a manufacturer’s requirement to Powerflush the system before fitting a new boiler to uphold the warranty".

what most manufacturers require and state is that you flush the system to the relevant british standard. this could be either a gravity flush, a mains flush or a powerflush. Which one you use depends on the condition of the system.

i wonder why powerflushing/plumbers websites try to tell you a powerflush is required? false advertising!
 
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It isn't a requirement however Bs7593 states that when cleansing an existing system the boiler & circulator can be used to breakdown debris etc. this will only work on a system with circulation to the whole system. When heavily sludged or blocked only a power flushing pump will generate the required flow rate & pressure to remove the blockages. The system also needs to be tested to within 10 percent of the cold supply & PH levels. If replacing a boiler this cleanse/ flush should be carried out pre-install. If the old boiler is not working again a p.flush is the recognised method. The new boiler must not be used to cleanse the system as this may leave deposits on heat exch & will invalidate guarantee if found to be reason for component failure.
 
Set apprentice away on a 30 year old system with alpha 240. Not even a cupful of sludge after 8 hrs!!!! Removed a rad to check. Shows a clean system can be kept clean! BG said needed a flush btw!!
 
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