Old system playing up

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Dan hart

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Hi all

I'm new here so thanks in advance, I have an old Netaheat boiler set up (gravity fed) which failed to fire up for central heating last week, I have set the three way diverted valve to manual and have been using the "call for hot water" to heat the radiators (once its been on for half hour and nice and hot I do get nice hot water pouring into the expansion tank) so want to get this resolved asap, tonight I bought a full Honeywell v4073 and swapped out the head, however, this hasn't remedied the issue, the spindle still seems loose enough (can turn by hand) my thermostat (old wired type - non digital) is set to full and clicks in and out & the controller (old lifestyle Lp722) led come on when I advance for central heating with nothing happening elsewhere.

I have removed the new valve head from the brass valve itself to see what happens when I switch from call for hot water/call for both/call for central heating only and it does nothing.

It is most likely that
A. The new valve head is duff
B. The controller is duff
C. The thermostat is knackered
D. Other

It has all previously worked well so I doubt a wiring fault, I'm skint and a well experience diy'er & would never mess with gas FYI, just after a few pointers to narrow the fault until I hav to go cap in hand to relatives for plumber money!

Thanks

Dan
 
Hello Dan and welcome!

It sounds like you have a couple of issues.
Has the water always poured into the F+E tank after half an hour?
What system do you have, Is it a Y plan ?
 
I believe it is yes, small header tank in loft, 3 way Honeywell diverter valve (22mm) and cylinder in airing cupboard with grundfos pump.

I don’t believe the hot water ever expanded into the tank before this fault but I rarely went in the loft, I have never heard it before certainly!
 
Are you any good at electrical testing?
Do you have a multi-meter or Voltage tester?
 
Yes I’m not bad, I’m no sparky but used to work on 240 & 3 phase in the past, I have a couple down the shed collecting dust I can use.

What do you suggest?

Thanks by the way!
 
If it's wired as a Y plan. You should have a 240V on the white wire to the Honeywell Valve when the Programmer is calling for heating and the Room stat is closed (calling/on).

Y-Plan-Wiring.gif


This is a wiring diagram for the system. If it is wired as a Y plan that is!!
 
Can you see that picture?
It looks blurred to me but it could be how I'm looking at it!

I have to say at this point, I am definitely not responsible if you electrocute yourself, Suffer an electric shock, set fire to anything etc.

You need to work safe ! if you are in the slightest bit unsure. You are very strongly advised to seek professional help!

Preferably from a Heating Engineer.
 
If you cannot see it. Google Y plan wiring.
Do you have a photo of the area with the pump, valve and pipe work etc?
It may help
 
Okay, there’s a total of 7 wires into the connection box.

1. Valve
2. Immersion heater
3. Pump
4. Controller
5. Switched live (isolator)
6&7. Flat 3 core wires coming out of the floor.
 
Very neat!

Is there live on white when Heating is calling or have you not got that far yet
 
Dan hart said:
1. Valve
2. Immersion heater
3. Pump
4. Controller
5. Switched live (isolator)
6&7. Flat 3 core wires coming out of the floor.
Click to expand...

1 = Valve
2 = Cylinder stat
3 = pump
4 = Programmer
5 = Switched fused spur
6 & 7= ? Room stat?? maybe a frost stat??
 
The white wire from the valve. Is there 240V on it when the programmer and room stat are calling for heat?

Check it on AC Voltage. red probe on white and your black probe on the Blue from the valve.
 
are you getting voltage out / from the prog (heating)

also are you using the volt sick in the photo instead of a multi meter?
 
You need to check the programmer is giving out 240V on Central Heating on terminal.
You could disconnect the wire in the box and test if it becomes live

(as Shaun said above, if you are using a volt stick/pen thing for this job, it will not do)!
 
If you have from the prog on the heating side when it's on 240

Do you have 240 going to and out from the room stat ?
 
Test that you have a neutral!
test between permanent live and the neutral that the valve is wired to (blue)
 
Last Plumber said:
You need to check the programmer is giving out 240V on Central Heating on terminal.
You could disconnect the wire in the box and test if it becomes live

(as Shaun said above, if you are using a volt stick/pen thing for this job, it will not do)!
Click to expand...


So just to check, from my list of connections above, heating on (from controller) would be connection 1 on my bit of paper?
 
I can't see where the wires go.

I think the wire from the Programmer goes to red on the flat 3 core. The same one that has a yellow connected to the White from the valve?

If that's correct then the wire should become live when you switch heating on
 
Last Plumber said:
I can't see where the wires go.

I think the wire from the Programmer goes to red on the flat 3 core. The same one that has a yellow connected to the White from the valve?

If that's correct then the wire should become live when you switch heating on
Click to expand...
Yes that powers to 240v when I call for heating and powers down when ch is switched back off
 
wiring dia for your stat on the inside of the cover ?
 
With the Heating on and stat turned up, test the red and blue then test the blue and yellow
 
turn the power off

move the yellow wire to no 1 terminal (eg red and yellow together)

heating should start
 
Stat broken.

Power off, put yellow onto red terminal, with red still on there, Power back. You will have linked out the stat till you get a new one.
 
Yes Honeywell 6360b should sort you out
 
red in 1
yellow in 3
blue in 2
earth in eath
 
Last Plumber said:
That one Shaun mentioned is good. Get one of them!
Click to expand...

As I know that the rads used to heat a bit when the hot water was on (only hot water) I may still swap out the full valve and fully drain the system,, any inhibitors that you would recommend for my system & netaheat boilers?

Also, the water going into the expansion tank, if this continues after the thermostat change is there anything that this screams out as, as a fault?
 
Dan hart said:
As I know that the rads used to heat a bit when the hot water was on (only hot water) I may still swap out the full valve and fully drain the system,, any inhibitors that you would recommend for my system & netaheat boilers?

Also, the water going into the expansion tank, if this continues after the thermostat change is there anything that this screams out as, as a fault?
Click to expand...

What's the Heat exchanger made from?
If it's anything other than Aluminium I'd use Fernox.

As far as the Tank goes, check the level first. When it's cold it should have 4 or 5 " of water in it.
 
How old is this neataheat?
I remember one potterton did years back but there can;t be any of those left alive now!
 
Last Plumber said:
What's the Heat exchanger made from?
If it's anything other than Aluminium I'd use Fernox.

As far as the Tank goes, check the level first. When it's cold it should have 4 or 5 " of water in it.
Click to expand...

Blimey, I’m not sure what it’s made of - I will try and find a model number and look it up.

The expansion tank ball cock works, it doesn’t look like any of th hot water goes into the overflow, it’s like it is taking the water it’s displacing
 
Last Plumber said:
How old is this neataheat?
I remember one potterton did years back but there can;t be any of those left alive now!
Click to expand...

It’s alive!!

When I had a gas pipe removed last year they sniffer tested it and it’s emmisions were better than most combi’s apparently

136D2200-7F80-4640-8FC2-31C5FEA9543A.jpeg


3D93D1D3-C35B-41D8-AA72-F4DAB7254CF2.jpeg


F3670CF8-B7A3-460F-8132-F67ADF440F1C.jpeg


9F037F87-541C-4DAA-ADD8-2D8F7E242706.jpeg


B0409FC8-982B-409E-95D3-FEC48A9802D8.jpeg


DD196F83-D1DA-4488-8F6A-9FBD93D0F810.jpeg


6027BEBE-5A59-44A4-A5BE-714EAE00C20B.jpeg


183416A7-E49B-4CF5-B033-DB855B913ECB.jpeg


01357390-DAE5-4E31-B689-D013C0FB58D4.jpeg
 
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