Discuss Making the Perfect End Feed Solder Joint in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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ginger = juice

We don't condone slagging the glow in the darks up here. You get used to it and quite handy for finding your **** :wink:
 
Never read so much information about how to solder a joint,

Fantastic,

1. cut out all copper in sight
2. replace with plastic
3. plastic joints
4. flexibles

When in a spot and have to use copper then buy the glue that joints them, now what is that called, system 3 can you help here?
 
Some more information on soldering, given the op wanted to work toward perfection:

Why Wet cloth and dry cloth?

The use of a dry cloth removes the excess flux 'before' you start soldering (most important tip)

The use of the wet cloth removes the flux residues after the joint has set, and you have finished soldering.

However, a note to those plumbers who insist on wiping around the joint after the solder has been applied, to make a neat looking 'wipe' mark.

This is a habit from the days of leaded solder when the plastic range of the solder made it such, that the solder was still mushy and could be worked for a few seconds after soldering - I too had this habit of wiping around the joint - but it is not needed.

Lead free solder has a different 'plastic range' and will set quickly. If you can wipe away lead free solder snots, then you have made the following actions that are just not required:

1. You have applied too much solder in the first instance risking waste of resources, time, money.
2. You have applied too much heat in order that lead free has plastic range which risks oxidising the joint.
3. You have risked 'cracking' the joint because you have touched it during its 'setting' stage.

If we wish to move our existing skills to those of mastery we sometimes need to recognise 'reasoned' scientific arguments. If people wipe around their joints and they have always done it, and had no problems, then they are masters of waste, and plug their ears when others advise - this is also an outcome of mastery, because we are capable of doing things the wrong way for years, but still achieve a desirable outcome - I am guilty of this too, but perhaps not for soldering!
 
Some more information on soldering,
.... Lead Free .... Cleaning Snots

1. You have applied too much solder in the first instance risking waste of resources, time, money.
2. You have applied too much heat in order that lead free has plastic range which risks oxidising the joint.
3. You have risked 'cracking' the joint because you have touched it during its 'setting' stage.


Cheers , so if you can wipe a lead free .... you've done it wrong

and should not be prodding it while it sets
 
I only wipe once it has cooled slightly. My pet hate is to see green joints where the flux residue has been left on. Yack.
 
thanks to everyone who replied.

As well as advice on making the perfect solder joint. I have also learned about:
- cats
- unblocking toilets
- female plumbing
- activities of electricians

Amazing!!

thanks again everyone
 
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thanks to everyone who replied.

As well as advice on making the perfect solder joint. I have also learned about:
- cats
- unblocking toilets
- female plumbing
- activities of electricians

Amazing!!

thanks again everyone

Pleasure Tutto, we've a wealth of knowledge and information available to those who ask and those who dont!
 
As well as advice on making the perfect solder joint. I have also learned about:
- cats
jack russels normally fix them
- unblocking toilets
you put it there you fix it
- female plumbing
cant be fixed,its got a mind of its own
- activities of electricians
​there all weird


 
parrots large grey chatty things always asking for grapes when all it wants is the finger holding the grape
 
Just use your flux brush to flick the droplet off, obviously you have to keep the flame on the joint until just before you're about to flick it. wire wool brushed back and forth parallel to the pipe also works...
 
There is two things I would like to add: I always clean the pipe ends with a cleaning pad, 3M is the best. And if I want the perfect soldering I flatten the end of the soldering rod so it enters in a small line rather a big dot.
I never tinned a pipe end in my (work) life yet but will bear it in mind in case I have to do large diameters.
 
Develop your own method and practice.

I only wipe away excess flux on downward facing joints. A clean, well fluxed, gently heated joint with solder applied out of sight should always come out nice and neat. I personally do not touch or wipe away the joint until it has set.
 
Who tins pipes anymore? Really? Funny how there are so many different methods to achieve the same result, a pipe that holds water or gas! I found when training propane made the nicest joints for whatever reason, the whole fluxing and cleaning method never crossed my mind! try using propane to heat 22 in the wind, up a ladder though.. :)

I use a wet cloth after heating, no cloth before then clean it up with wire wool if it's a joint on show but if you get a messy joint whilst still hot brush flux all over it will clean it like a dream! Make sure you wipe it up afterwards or it goes green and looks really pooh.

I was always taught that you needed 2mm of visible solder around the rim of the joint to achieve this I rub the solder around end of fitting where pipe goes in, also good way of testing the heat and to pull flame away etc, never get drips and I think my joints look the mutts nuts!
 
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