Discuss Hi Guys in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
Messages
18
Hi there, I have following setup:
BG 330+ (Glow worm re-badged)
RC Plus wireless thermostat in hall
Timer/control Model UT2 in cupboard upstairs with hot water tank.

I bought the new Hive 2 kit for 'heating and hot water'. I unclipped the timer/control UT2 and clipped the new dual channel receiver onto the back plate. I setup rest of the Hive gear and its all up and running, except that the it doesn't start and run heating. Hot water works ok. I can access the thermostat from my phone and the internet and despite it saying heating is on (even if I set the temp to maximum) the boiler doesn't fire up.

The central heating light on the receiver lights up when expected but boiler not turning on.

Any ideas where I've possibly gone wrong or overlooked setting?

What I have noticed is that marked as number 4 on the new backplate for the receiver doesn't exist on the back of the UT2? I haven't changed the back plate to new one, old backplate has just been left and new receiver connected over onto it.

Many Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • 20151201_202704_resized.jpg
    20151201_202704_resized.jpg
    39.7 KB · Views: 23
  • 20151201_220428-1_resized.jpg
    20151201_220428-1_resized.jpg
    40.7 KB · Views: 23
  • 20151201_220502_resized.jpg
    20151201_220502_resized.jpg
    34.6 KB · Views: 21
  • 20151201_220513_resized.jpg
    20151201_220513_resized.jpg
    48.1 KB · Views: 20
  • Untitled.png
    Untitled.png
    30.8 KB · Views: 21
  • Untitled2.png
    Untitled2.png
    125.2 KB · Views: 18
Last edited:
I've put batteries back in to the RC Plus, leaving all the new setup in situ, and when I turn temp up on RC Plus the boiler fires up and central heating kicks in! must be something silly.

I've a feeling its something to do with missing pin on old UT2?
 

Attachments

  • Untitled3.png
    Untitled3.png
    109.5 KB · Views: 78
Last edited:
Ya need to wire the back plate accordingly. not all programmers stats etc have the same configuration. Btw i'd recommend a heating engineer to do it who understands what wire does what. Unless ya understand and can test ya may knacker the new gear or get shocked.
 
Ya need to wire the back plate accordingly. not all programmers stats etc have the same configuration. Btw i'd recommend a heating engineer to do it who understands what wire does what. Unless ya understand and can test ya may knacker the new gear or get shocked.

Thanks for your reply. I understand your advice, and I expected the back plate will need rewiring, hence I would like the wiring diagram that shows which wires need moving.

I attached pictures of All devices in the existing and new circuit, so surely this can't be that hard.

Many Thanks
 
Attached is picture of wiring on back plate under the original UT2 as fitted by BG 2.5 years ago. So can anyone tell me which wires need moving to where? I've marked wires of what I can make out?
 

Attachments

  • 20151202_134816_resized.jpg
    20151202_134816_resized.jpg
    92.5 KB · Views: 19
  • 20151202_134816_resized -2.jpg
    20151202_134816_resized -2.jpg
    92.5 KB · Views: 18
Last edited:
You don't have enough cores in the existing cable to wire as per the diagram.

We can't really tell you which cable to move without seing the wiring centre itself, and even then I would prefer to trace each cable to be sure which core is used for what. Any advice given on the basis of incomplete knowledge could cause damage to components, or bigger electrical problems.

It shouldn't take a competent hetaing engineer very long at all to figure out your existing wiring configuration and rewire accordingly. You will quite likely need another cable to be run to the backplate though.
 
For others that are new to this and to conclude, once I took a look at it all, all that was needed, which I'm sure all of you know/knew, was to reconfigure two wires to get the hot water running properly which is what I mainly needed, I will run a new cable from the UT2 backplate to the WR1 downstairs and connect to the two heating ON/OFF wires in the summer to complete.

In the pictures of the back plate, remove link between L and 1, then move wire from 2 to 1 that's it!


Thanks.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Hi Guys in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

  • Question
Ideal Logic 24, Previous problem was that the hot water was only cold or barely warm if the heating was in use. If heating was off and boiler cold...
Replies
2
Views
230
Hi, I have a Worcester 28i junior boiler that has started to lose pressure, only when using the central heating. When using hot water I have no...
Replies
6
Views
289
Hi all. Hope you have all been keeping well. A while back I decided I only wanted to fit one brand of boiler and decided on Viessmann due to...
Replies
9
Views
344
We run a community village hall and have a large kitchen provided for the use of hirers. This includes a Lincat SLR9 gas cooker which I believe is...
Replies
5
Views
563
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock