Y
Yehia
Hi all,
I've just bought two 22mm copper push-fit (type 2) flexible tap connectors with integral isolation valves, which I have fitted to a new bathtub that I've installed.
Although I am capable of bending pipes and soldering joints, I chose to try something new, for three main reasons: firstly, yes, to try and save time; secondly, for safety reasons - i.e. wanting to avoid soldering in a confined space near gas pipes; and thirdly, because of the proximity of a 'T' joint which branches off into the wall, which I did not want to disturb or cut too close to.
Anyway, here's the situation:
One of the flexible tap connectors has fitted in place perfectly.
However, one of them (from the cold tap - which is further back and harder to reach, inevitably) has got a kink in it, due to the fact that I could not confidently cut the supply pipe any lower down, or there might not have been room to insert the push-fit fitting properly (also partly because of that 'T' joint I mentioned...)
I bought a 'Removal Tool', in the hope that I would be able to take the push-fit fitting back off, maybe cut 20mm more (max.) off the copper pipe, then put it back on again, but the damn thing simply won't shift! (The issue is that the the removal tool will not slide up over the isolation valve -bah! That's 5 quid wasted for a start...)
However, there are no leakages up to the isolation valves, so the push-fit fittings are sound in both cases.
Here's my potential plan of action:
Tomorrow (after the sealant has dried around the waste outlets) I will check the flow rates to both taps.
A. If they're both OK, I'm probably going to leave them both in situ, despite the kink in one of them.
B. If the one with the kink in it has a reduced flow rate, I'm going to have to remove the fitting, take out the entire bathtub again, and cut the supply pipe further back, using compression fittings to replace that troublesome 'T' and a new length of copper 22mm pipe up to the tap in question.
Obviously, option A would be far preferable to option B!
But can anyone suggest another course of action?
I hope it's clear that I am NOT a cowboy, and that I have every intention of taking the best possible course of action to ensure a sound and long-lasting installation. I have done what I believed to be safe and professional, but this small issue is bugging me enormously.
So, all suggestions will be warmly welcomed - except ones along the lines of, "You didn't wanna do it like that..."; for better or worse, I've already done it like I've described, so what do people think I should do next is what I'd be interested and grateful to know?
Cheers in advance,
YT
I've just bought two 22mm copper push-fit (type 2) flexible tap connectors with integral isolation valves, which I have fitted to a new bathtub that I've installed.
Although I am capable of bending pipes and soldering joints, I chose to try something new, for three main reasons: firstly, yes, to try and save time; secondly, for safety reasons - i.e. wanting to avoid soldering in a confined space near gas pipes; and thirdly, because of the proximity of a 'T' joint which branches off into the wall, which I did not want to disturb or cut too close to.
Anyway, here's the situation:
One of the flexible tap connectors has fitted in place perfectly.
However, one of them (from the cold tap - which is further back and harder to reach, inevitably) has got a kink in it, due to the fact that I could not confidently cut the supply pipe any lower down, or there might not have been room to insert the push-fit fitting properly (also partly because of that 'T' joint I mentioned...)
I bought a 'Removal Tool', in the hope that I would be able to take the push-fit fitting back off, maybe cut 20mm more (max.) off the copper pipe, then put it back on again, but the damn thing simply won't shift! (The issue is that the the removal tool will not slide up over the isolation valve -bah! That's 5 quid wasted for a start...)
However, there are no leakages up to the isolation valves, so the push-fit fittings are sound in both cases.
Here's my potential plan of action:
Tomorrow (after the sealant has dried around the waste outlets) I will check the flow rates to both taps.
A. If they're both OK, I'm probably going to leave them both in situ, despite the kink in one of them.
B. If the one with the kink in it has a reduced flow rate, I'm going to have to remove the fitting, take out the entire bathtub again, and cut the supply pipe further back, using compression fittings to replace that troublesome 'T' and a new length of copper 22mm pipe up to the tap in question.
Obviously, option A would be far preferable to option B!
But can anyone suggest another course of action?
I hope it's clear that I am NOT a cowboy, and that I have every intention of taking the best possible course of action to ensure a sound and long-lasting installation. I have done what I believed to be safe and professional, but this small issue is bugging me enormously.
So, all suggestions will be warmly welcomed - except ones along the lines of, "You didn't wanna do it like that..."; for better or worse, I've already done it like I've described, so what do people think I should do next is what I'd be interested and grateful to know?
Cheers in advance,
YT
