Search the forum,

Discuss Direct unvented and hard water in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.

darren bastin

Gas Engineer
Messages
89
Hi, I will be fitting an unvented hot water cylinder heated via immersion elements. my concern is that the customer has a borehole supply which is very hard, which will effect the life of the elements. Could anyone recommend a proven product t prevent the problem. Will a whole house inline limefighter be adequate ?
 
Won't a good Magnatizer be good enough added to the pipework?
 
I may be wrong but don't most boilers ask for them to be put on as part of the MI's???
 
I may be wrong but don't most boilers ask for them to be put on as part of the MI's???

It's not a boiler it's an unvented cylinder.
If it's very hard water than no matter what you fit the cylinder could get scaled, just offer to descale it when necessary.
If you start talking water softeners etc you might just price yourself out of a job.
 
Inline scale inhibitors are ok for boilers because the treated water passes directly through and dosnt sit at all, they have a effect on the scale for between 17-48 hrs. With a hw cyl the water will not be used in time so will need a different method ie watersoftner or phosphate doser
 
used a magnet in Pompey, hard and chalkey and my combi never scaled up, neither did the kettle, which prior to the magnet was a furball fm hell
 
similar situation. I thought the magnet scale fighters and electronic ones were snake oil. do they actually work? or should I as suggested use a phosphate doser?
 
similar situation. I thought the magnet scale fighters and electronic ones were snake oil. do they actually work? or should I as suggested use a phosphate doser?

No, not snake oil. You just have to understand what you are fitting and what you are fitting it to.

A magnetic scale inhibitor directly on the feed to a single appliance will make some difference. It will lengthen the life (for example) of an electric shower, and it will reduce and delay scale deposits. It will not eliminate them.

I have had very good reports of the Hydropath HS34 and HS38 electronic inhibitor, but it does make a difference where you site it.
 
No, not snake oil. You just have to understand what you are fitting and what you are fitting it to.

A magnetic scale inhibitor directly on the feed to a single appliance will make some difference. It will lengthen the life (for example) of an electric shower, and it will reduce and delay scale deposits. It will not eliminate them.

I have had very good reports of the Hydropath HS34 and HS38 electronic inhibitor, but it does make a difference where you site it.
But he was asking about protecting an un-vented cylinder Ray not a electric shower.
 
Yes, these are the only effective way to remove the calcium carbonates (hardness) from the water.

agreed, think there is a lot of rubbish on sale out there in this area.
Arn't magnetic ones only meant to be effective if the water is kept moving?
 
Agree that Base Exchange is the only truly effective way of sorting hard water...
A half decent metered unit isn't going to cost any more than a couple of descales of a cylinder in the big scheme of things....

Worth mentioning to the customer, but not forcing into your quote as an essential work. I would guarantee that others won't put it in so may get priced out.
 
The control of scale in domestic cylinders is mainly managed by limiting the temperature to no more than 60 - 65deg C, above this the rate of scale coming out of solution increases greatly.

In my experience it is very rare for the build up to cause problems, as the scale particles break off of the heater elements & fall to the base. So long as the build-up does not stop the circulation of water across the element all will be fine.

Just make sure you check for build-up when replacing any elements.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Direct unvented and hard water in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
323
Hi guys. I'm trying to identify a toilet model before ordering a seat for a customer. I went to what used to be a Roca stockist (they no longer are) and one of the guys there reckoned it might be "The Gap". I went to the new stockist and the guy there disagreed it was "The Gap" and that he'd...
Replies
2
Views
136
Hi all I'm hoping someone can shine a light on this for me Since our stop tap on the pavement has now been filled with sand for whatever reason, we are relying on our property fitted stopcock (this is outside on our garage wall) Unfortunately turning this to the closed position only reduces...
Replies
3
Views
243
Hi All I have a leak coming from within my Mira Elite QT shower. It seems to be flowing from behind the switching Control. Any ideas what could be causing this leak. Already Changed the Pump Elbow as one of the clips had popped which was causing a second small leak, Any idea? Is it time to buy...
Replies
0
Views
231
The fittings below are for a mixer bar attached to a self contained shower. i.e not a wall. The attaching screws have snapped. I could get two new brackets, dismantle that existing one and start again or I could try and re attach via those screws, removing the broken ones from the plate and wall...
Replies
1
Views
197
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock