Discuss Heated Towel Rail - Elbow Fittings? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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mds1256

Hi (first post on these forums)

Looking to replace an existing radiator for a chrome heated towel rail.

However, I live in a new build house where they have used white plastic pipe (think its called barrier pipe???) and I would still like to be able to take the towel rail off the wall to decorate etc when the time comes. The existing radiator is ideal as you just unhook this from the brackets and the plastic pipe pulls out of the wall so you can lie the radiator on the floor to decorate.

Now how can I achieve the same with a towel rail, not sure what elbow connections I would need and also how I would hide the pipes as best as possible.

Looking at the wall there is a void between the drywall (dot and dab) of around 2cm so I cannot really hide the elbow in the void.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
BBC, be bloody careful with pulling pipe out of the wall, the push fit joints hidden behind can quite happily pop off if they get the chance and arent pushed together right. God invented radiator brushes and rollers for good reason! re joints etc, if you want a proffessional finish call in a decent plumber they can fit the right bits for the job. Other wise use pushfit and dont try burying it in dot n dab
 
Hi (first post on these forums)

Looking to replace an existing radiator for a chrome heated towel rail.

However, I live in a new build house where they have used white plastic pipe (think its called barrier pipe???) and I would still like to be able to take the towel rail off the wall to decorate etc when the time comes. The existing radiator is ideal as you just unhook this from the brackets and the plastic pipe pulls out of the wall so you can lie the radiator on the floor to decorate.

Now how can I achieve the same with a towel rail, not sure what elbow connections I would need and also how I would hide the pipes as best as possible.

Looking at the wall there is a void between the drywall (dot and dab) of around 2cm so I cannot really hide the elbow in the void.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

the towel rail valves work in same way as rad valves you have a little 10mm push fit adaptor in your rad valves but behind you rad you should have a pipe spreader or "fanny box" that would need to come off be patched and your 10 mm's chased into the wall and coming out at new centres to match towel rail. but then you still got the issue of visible 10mm pipe exiting the wall, they also wouldnt have any play in as they would have be filled around and made good. best off having it done properly with copper tails sticking out
 
Thanks. Yes it has a pipe spreader in the middle behind the rad, no problem with filling that.

The copper pipe tails will be a better finish and in the end i dont decorate every month so it hopefully shouldn't be too much of a pain to paint behind.

So working with copper tails how would I hide the elbow, as the depth of the void/board seems to be shallower than the depth of the elbow?

I have seen the chrome covers that had an extrusion (dished) which I could possibly use?
 
Thanks. Yes it has a pipe spreader in the middle behind the rad, no problem with filling that.

The copper pipe tails will be a better finish and in the end i dont decorate every month so it hopefully shouldn't be too much of a pain to paint behind.

So working with copper tails how would I hide the elbow, as the depth of the void/board seems to be shallower than the depth of the elbow?

I have seen the chrome covers that had an extrusion (dished) which I could possibly use?

the chrome covers are called rosettes. as for hiding the pipework you can chase out the board and the wall behind it to recess the pipes. easiest way is to chase out, cut the 10mm's, use a 10 x 15mm reducer to take it into copper, chase fitting out deeper, bring tails out for towel rail, cover any copper in the wall with tape, nail clip in,, gyproc easifil your chases, sand back and paint and voila!
 
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