Wiring in room stat to my Potterton Netaheat Profile 40e

[Wintersun]

Hi all,

my 1st post here! I have searched all over the net and can't really find an answer to my quest!

I have a Potterton Netaheat Profile 40e boiler, controlled by a Potterton Ep2001 timer.

I currently do not have a room thermostat in my house. But would like one fitted to my living room.

I have seen youtube video showing how to wire up a wireless thermostat to "a" boiler. Im pretty good with electrics so im sure I can install one, but.....

The problem Im having is, can a room thermostat be fitted to my Potterton netaheat profile 40e? or EP2001 timer controls?

I basically need to know where the wires go!

Also if I have a thermostat fitted, what do I do with the original timer controls? Keep them in place and have them set to constant and let the thermostat control it?

I have a fully pumped heating system. So I believe that would be diagram H on page 3 of the manual?

My timer control diagram
[DLMURL]http://www.gtts.co.uk/EP2001/PottertonEP2001InstallerGuide.pdf[/DLMURL]

My Wireless receiver diagram
http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p4766387.pdf

What wires from the wireless receiver would I tap into on the timer or the boiler?

My timer panel opened. (reads A B C D L N 1 2 3 4 5)


My wireless thermostat receiver opened.


Thanks

Matt

 

[cr0ft]

Hi Wintersun,

The work you are wanting to do is controlled work under Part P of the building regulations so you would be much cheaper getting an electrician in (who is registered with a competent person scheme such as NICEIC) to do it for you than paying the local building inspector to come out and give you the certificate you will need when you sell your house.

Not notifying building control on this work is illegal (either through a competent person scheme or by notifying them yourself prior to doing the work) so don't take the chance, they will catch up with you when you sell your home.

 

[diamondgas]

Well blow me!!! I'm carrying out illegal work I thought Part P was for upto the fuse spur? So are you saying crOft that if i change a room stat or wire in a room stat, something I've done for 30yrs, I'm carrying this work out illegaly? Honestly that's the first I've heard!!

 

[stevetheplumber]

im with you here diamond im buggered if im going to sit another test on something ive done for years

 

[diamondgas]

wintersun ... bye the way, it'd not cost you much to get a GSR guy, NOT PART P, like myself to sort it for you no bother

Is the white wire into '4' on the programmer back plate from the diverter valve actuator?

 

[Wintersun]

cheers for the replys guys

I could get an electrician in to do the work, but why would they sell these items in diy stores if you then need to call a specialist in to do it for you?

Someone must know which 3 wires I need to connect to the stat receiver from the timer control panel?

 

[diamondgas]

Live, Neutral and switched live are the 3 wires wintersun ... if you're using 3 wires though you'll need a link in the sender Reason I asked about the white wire is that it's important to know its destination also

 

[Wintersun]

Hi diamondgas,

the white wire in 4 is indeed to the actuator valve.

Which wire goes from the timer panel (A B C D L N 1 2 3 4 5) onto L, N , L1, LX, L2 on the wireless sender? What link will I need on the sender?

thanks

 

[diamondgas]

Okay seeing as it's Christmas and you'll probably find out somewhere down the line

L - L
N - N
L1 - C
remove white from 4 and put in in C

Link L to LX in the sender

Now it doesn't matter if you have your programmer on or off for central heating. The heating demand has been bi-passed to the extremly crappy RF stat you've bought :rofl:

 

[Wintersun]

Thanks! :hurray: Whats wrong with my RF stat??? rrr:

 

[Wintersun]

So if I set my CH timer to off and turn the Stat up to above the room temp, the boiler will click in and fire up?

I can still use the timer controls to control my HW as before?

What RF Stat would you recommend? nothing too expensive, but one thats good and does the job I want it to do.

 

[diamondgas]

Thank! :hurray: Whats wrong with my RF stat??? rrr:

Changed a good few in my time coz they just stop working after a year or two!!! They may have ironed out the glitch by now, I know they've had at least 2 versions so far, but I stay clear of siemens RF coz of past experience

 

[diamondgas]

So if I set my CH timer to off and turn the Stat up to above the room temp, the boiler will click in and fire up?

I can still use the timer controls to control my HW as before?

Now it gets complicated Wintersun! You'll always get hot water BUT it depends on how the rest of the system is wired as to whether you can have heating indipendantly if the programmer is "off" on hot water!

 

[Wintersun]

Well I might just take that one back then and change it for a better one. Any recommendations?

 

[Wintersun]

Now it gets complicated Wintersun! You'll always get hot water BUT it depends on how the rest of the system is wired as to whether you can have heating indipendantly if the programmer is "off" on hot water!

I've only been in this house a year and as far as I can work out, the CH and HW can be run separately on the potterton EP2001 timer thats currently wired up to my system. My HW is mostly off all day apart from 2 hours in the morning. But the CH works fine with the HW off on the timer.

 

[quality]

Well blow me!!! I'm carrying out illegal work I thought Part P was for upto the fuse spur? So are you saying crOft that if i change a room stat or wire in a room stat, something I've done for 30yrs, I'm carrying this work out illegaly? Honestly that's the first I've heard!!

I was questioned by building control over a similar issue (jobs worth)
Anyways part p is required for the provision of a new circuit not simply changing similar for similar .
The bloke was red in the face when I proved my credentials as a fully approved registered contractor and not just part p

 

[Wintersun]

how much would a heating eleci charge to fit a stat?

 

[diamondgas]

I've only been in this house a year and as far as I can work out, the CH and HW can be run separately on the potterton EP2001 timer thats currently wired up to my system. My HW is mostly off all day apart from 2 hours in the morning. But the CH works fine with the HW off on the timer.

That sounds good for go Wintersun IMO

 

[diamondgas]

I was questioned by building control over a similar issue (jobs worth)
Anyways part p is required for the provision of a new circuit not simply changing similar for similar .
The bloke was red in the face when I proved my credentials as a fully approved registered contractor and not just part p

I'd imagine it's nothing discimilar to GSR .. Prove compitence and you're okay? End of the day if your being questioned by the powers that be then you've probably dropped a bollock anyway

 

[Wintersun]

Great, so that means I can still control my HW by timer as per before and switch my CH off via the timer and just use the room stat?

Is the Honeywell DT92E wireless a good one?

 

[diamondgas]

Great, so that means I can still control my HW by timer as per before and switch my CH off via the timer and just use the room stat?

Is the Honeywell DT92E wireless a good one?

I'd have to look it up to be honest but any honeywell is good in my opinion! Had no come backs and there a neat piece of kit

 

[cr0ft]

Well blow me!!! I'm carrying out illegal work I thought Part P was for upto the fuse spur? So are you saying crOft that if i change a room stat or wire in a room stat, something I've done for 30yrs, I'm carrying this work out illegaly? Honestly that's the first I've heard!!

Hi mate,

I agree with what you are thinking, that it's mad, but it's definitely true if you are adding new control wiring for central heating (note, not replacing an existing stat if it uses the same wiring). It's the same principle as replacing an electric shower is fine but installing a new one is notifiable.

I only learnt this recently myself when I did my 17th Edition update course but it is clear as can be in this guide written by [DLMURL="http://www.lewes.gov.uk/Files/Plan_Part_P.pdf"]Lewes council[/DLMURL] (page 7 refers), there are various ones on t'internet but this is the first one I found on Google.

Haven't got my On Site Guide to hand at the moment but I'm pretty sure it's even clearer in there.

Your customers should be receiving a minor works certificate for a new installation I would suggest and possibly even a schedule of test results for insulation testing etc.

 

[cr0ft]

cheers for the replys guys

I could get an electrician in to do the work, but why would they sell these items in diy stores if you then need to call a specialist in to do it for you?

Someone must know which 3 wires I need to connect to the stat receiver from the timer control panel?

The same reasons that some plumbing merchants sell Band B boilers still. It's not illegal to sell you them (they are out to make money after all), only breaking the law if you fit them (in most cases). As I mentioned above, replacement of a room stat without modifying the wiring isn't illegal, but they do need to be notified if any central heating controls are added or you have to replace the wiring.

That's the theory of course, but the huge problem with Part P is people put 2 fingers up to it, so it doesn't really work lol. In my opinion there needs to be much better policing of it and far stricter fines.

I don't know how anyone will find out that you have done it mind you, but I'm just letting you know so you can make an informed decision, as you can see on here, there is a lot of confusion surrounding Part P.

 

[diamondgas]

Hi mate,

Not under part P if you are replacing but if you are installing a new room stat where there isn't one already then yes, definitely is notifiable. As are all central heating controls. I only learnt it doing my 17th Edition course recently but it is black and white in the Part P document.

Please don't shop me

Honestly sometimes I just have to sigh and wonder when will the madness end?

HoHummmm *shrug*

 

[cr0ft]

LOL I'm not going to shop you, not sure who would care to be honest! Was as much a surprise to me though when I found out. Having sold our house recently though and the previous one just 4 years earlier it was quite noticeable how much solicitors are catching on to the requirement for electrical certificates though. Our buyer's solicitor even insisted on a full periodic inspection report of our electrics. Had we had stuff that hadn't been notified like this we would have been caught out if the inspector was worth his salt.

If you are caught I believe the fine is £5,000 now though. To date the only people (that I'm aware of) have been fined have produced shoddy and/or dangerous work but eventually I would expect a building control department somewhere to make an example of someone somewhere.

I know it's not very helpful but my view is that we shouldn't be encouraging anyone to do DIY controlled electrical work, in the same way as we wouldn't encourage anyone to do DIY gas work. Both can be fatal if they are done wrongly.

*off soap box*

 

[GQuigley67]

think that its going to catch on in scotland eventually also, at the moment we are still allowed to work after the spur and do cross bonding just not MEB

 

[diamondgas]

Well if I do something that fry's someone then i deserve the full weight of the law! If my experience is enough to merit compitence then so be it!

I'm at times now so glad i am approaching the twilight of my working life in this industry! The fears that be seem to be pressing down on folk and removing any realm of experience.... regards electrics there are so many circuit breakers these days I wonderif it is at all possible, however incompitent, to put some one at risk or danger?

 

[cr0ft]

Totally get where you are coming from. I've only been running my own business for 3 years so I haven't built up nearly the amount of experience you have. It must be pretty frustrating to be obviously competent in wiring in heating controls then Part P comes in and suddenly it's another course you have to go on and registration fees you have to pay just to do things legally.

Your experience is enough to register you with certain competent person's schemes by the way. Some like NICEIC need formal qualifications but some have far lower entrance requirements. Basically as long as you know your way around the latest edition of BS7671 and produce work that applies with it when they inspect you then you're in.

It's certainly a money spinner too. Most of the schemes are charging 2x as much as Gas Safe but they are providing (effectively) the same service.

It is as easy to kill people with dodgy electrical work as it is to kill people with dodgy gas work though. An under-protected cable starting a fire at night is going to be as dangerous as a ill-fitted flu leaking combustion products back into a house.

I'm one of the minority that thinks Part P is a good thing. It's not perfect and it will never stop cowboys from trading but a requirement to inspect and test new electrical installations can only make installs safer.

 

[diamondgas]

Total respect cr0ft

i grew up teaching sparky's how to wire heating systems (honestly, house wirers didn't have a clue!) and still smile sometimes when it comes down to it! However i am not privvy to the current electrical regs and undertand their importance in todays fear based society!

What will be will be eh?

 

[WHPES]

Doesn't bother me as I'm far too lazy to be bothered to work out wiring diagrams anyway and just get in my spark friend (who does likewise with me when he needs some plumbing bits doing).

 

[Wintersun]

Decided to take back the siemens stat and bought the Honeywell THR872 Wireless programable thermostat instead.

Wired in the receiver to my Potterton EP2001 CH switch.





Now the programable Thermostat is controlling the CH time/temp.

The HW tank still gets got when the CH is on which I guess is good?