Discuss New Oil tank installation pipework query in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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C

Cynergy

Morning all,

Im after a little advise on installing pipework to an existing oil fired boiler.

I am replacing a rusty old tank with a plastic one in a new location so need to install new pipework. Im going with 10mm Qual pipe buried 450mm below ground but need to know where the pipe is exposed at both the tank end and the entry point to the building does this need change to PVC coated copper or can I just sleeve it or maybe put some Denso tape around ?



I know the regs state joints must be avoided but I dont have an option if im going from underground plastic to above ground PVC copper :confused:

Any advice appreciated
 
I'm assuming you've got the ticket for installing a new oil tank. Only mentioning this as it's a requirement these days and there are loads of rules about siting it to current regs. (Hope I'm not being a doom monger!) Common one to ignore is having a solid base the edge of which should be at least 300mm away from the sides/ends of the tank.

If you're using Qualpipe, I'm assuming you know you must use oil sleeves on the connections (there's also debate on whether you should use them on all fittings that aren't flared).

So many rules to keep some of them blokes in jobs. They never think of us poor installers who have to face the fury of customers when they realise how much it's going to cost in the end!!
 
Never heard of needing a ticket to fit oil tanks
Yes there is regs
And all new tanks to be bunded
 
I'm assuming you've got the ticket for installing a new oil tank

Got a ticket ? To install a tank ?

I'm doing the groundworks (150mm concrete base, 300mm wider than the tank on all sides + 1.8m away from any structure and/or eaves) + the underground pipework upto the fire valve. The rest of the installation from the incoming entry point to the boiler I am getting an OFTEC engineer to do including certifying the rest of the installation.

I'm assuming I am ok doing this ?
 
If OFTEC engineer is certifying then that's fine.

I only mentioned above to try and help - not hinder. Many people don't realise new installations need to be signed off by OFTEC or building control and that there are a fair amount of things to look for like base, distance from buildings, distance from water sources, etc. Doesn't stop loads of people breaking the rules but that's not my concern.

"Ticket" is passing the 600(?) OFTEC exam and paying your sub to a competent persons scheme (like so much other of the red tape we have to abide by!)
 
Like said as long as all distances are as regs then building control can sighn off no need to pay for oftec register
We are getting silly with ticket for this and that
Soon need a qualification to wipe our you get the drift lol
 
It costs OFTEC engineer £2.50 to sign off. Building control is £150 ish?

Quite agree with the ticket to wipe ...
 
Like said as long as all distances are as regs then building control can sighn off no need to pay for oftec register
We are getting silly with ticket for this and that
Soon need a qualification to wipe our you get the drift lol

An oil tank installation has to comply with Building Regs just like so many other parts of our trade. It's only right that oil installations are regulated in the same way as gas one are.What if the OP said he was working on a gas meter without being registered? It's not so different from working on an oil tank.

The oil tank install can be certified by the OFTEC engineer when he installs the boiler so as long as it's done correctly it will be fine,I'm not a fan of Qual pipe really,I'd rather use copper with flared fittings,just personal preference. If you use compression fittings then you should use brass liners too.
 
If you use compression fittings then you should use brass liners too.

I thought so but everytime I mention this to someone I'm always told they're not required! I use them in any case as it helps make an oil tight join.
 
I thought so but everytime I mention this to someone I'm always told they're not required! I use them in any case as it helps make an oil tight join.

The OFTEC inspector told me they should be used now,not sure if it's set in stone though. When you see how an olive can crush 10mm soft copper it makes sense though. Oil will always find a way to leak if it can,that's why I use flared fittings where possible,but I think the liners do help.
 
Plastic tanks are so vulnerable to oil theft partic by ramming a rod through I would advise a stronger one than plastic its bad loosin £2500 oil but a new tank also. You might want to install an alarm to alert you to rapid level lowering.

centralheatking
 
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