Discuss Glow Worm Ultimate 50FF PCB Problem in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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dgratton

My boiler will not start. Nothing happens when activated. When I unscrewed the PCB, I tapped the string of electrical connectors and, at a certain point, the neon light glows and the boiler starts and works OK. After some time (a day or two) the unit stops working altogether and I have to do the same again. I am presuming it is fair to assume the problem is with the PCB. I have checked all of the electrical connections - at least all that I can see. My question is do I need a new PCB or can this one be fix? If so how? If anyone can shed light on this prob I would be very grateful.
 
sounds like either a loose connection or broken wire in the loom you will need to trace each wire and check that the wire is connected securely to the plastic plug socket on to the pcb also carry out a continuity test on each wire in the wiring loom if that fails then it may be the pcb but check everything else first to many people jump for the pcb when it is something simple
 
Went to the same kind of thing a few weeks ago. The PCB had a dry joint on the air pressure switch connection causing it to intermittently work/not work. Changed the board, but if you are a dab hand at electrical soldering then you could do that, providing the problem is the same in your case. You can usually see some heat related marks on the PCB.
 
Thanks. Do you know where I could get a PCB, new or second hand, and how much apprx would it cost.
 
In all honesty, get the part number from Glow Worm. They changed the GC number on some of the boilers, to reflect a change in a number of parts. The 40 FF is was working on had 2 PCBs, one a 5 wire, 1 fuse, one a 7 wire, 2 fuse. So make sure you know which one you need. Then search on the internet and ring your local Wolseley Parts Centre to find out how much they cost RRP. I would say for a new one, from Parts Centre is going to set you back about ÂŁ150, so you need to be as sure as you can that is the problem. They WILL NOT accept it as a refund because they have no way of testing it to make sure you haven't blown the board you are trying to return.
 
i had a similar issue a couple of years back with a 100ff. I found a place on ebay that sold them and offered a guarentee and refund when you sent the old one back. Been good as gold since then
 
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