Drayton LP522 Controller & Mid Position Valve issue

[PurpleTurtle]

Hi,

I have a Drayton LP522 controller that is giving me some issues. The system is set to timed to come on in morning and evening for HW and CH, and although the controller seems to be working (in as much as it has power, keeps time and accepts and maintains the program) it is not triggering the boiler to come on, but if I scroll through the 'SELECT' menu once (from TWICE, ONCE, ON, OFF and back to TWICE again) it will trigger the Drayton Mid Position valve to get things working. In other words, it negates the use of having a controller, because I'm having to manually trigger it.

The Valve is (as far as I can tell) physically working and the boiler comes into action when the above steps are followed, so am I right to rule out the valve being stuck, or the synchronous motor being the cause. Could it be the microswitch? If so, what's the solution, a new actuator? System is approx 10 years old.

Any help gratefully welcomed.

Thanks

 

[CES]

Sounds like your LP522 isnt switching. If it comes on when you select it manually then there's nowt wrong with your motorised valve. New programmer.

 

[diamondgas]

:welcome: to the forum purpleTurtle

How good are you with a multi meter? There's some checks you'd need to do when it next 'sticks' to fathom out where the issue lies IMO! My initial instinct would be leaning towards the programmer or boiler! They're the two common's required for h/w and c/h with a 'y'plan design

 

[PurpleTurtle]

Thanks for the quick replies. "Programmer not switching" is a more succint description of what I was trying to say! Both HW and CH definitely work when I initiate the 'ON' manually, in plain speak, the timer isn't triggering.

I've got a multimeter but must be honest and say I'm never sure which setting to have the blasted thing set to .. probably stretching my knowledge of electrics a little, but I can follow instructions fairly well if it's easy to test the programmer?

 

[diamondgas]

Thing is you can't really test the flippin things coz they disconnect when you remove them! Best place for a novice would be the room thermostat (if it's hard wired) ... Should have 230V supply when the programmer calls for heating. Otherwise it should be relatively dead! If the lights on at the programmer but you're getting ziltch at the stat I'd be changing the programmer

 

[Roger Welton]

I keep meaning to make up a test rig for programmers as they all prety much are wired the same, just never seem to get a round to it.

 

[PurpleTurtle]

Sounds like your LP522 isnt switching. If it comes on when you select it manually then there's nowt wrong with your motorised valve. New programmer.

New programmer sorted the problem, 56 quid incl VAT and saved me taking a day off work and losing pay as I'm self-employed.

Took me longer to program the thing than it than it did to whip the old one off the backplate and fit the new one on! Thanks again :rockon2: