Discuss baxi 80e circuit board fuse in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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mutley racers

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I have the above which was fitted with a 13 amp fuse, which melted the diverter motor wire and blew the fuse on the pcb. Do they have a spare fuse on them or shall I just get a new pcb for it
 
Usually check in MI as they say the rating that's fitted or some are printed on fuse. I've got a selection of quick blow, slow blow 1A,2A

Hopefully the PCB fuse will have protected it so will just need a new fuse, and harness sorted. Probably something underlying causing the high current though.
 
I think as the diverter had corroded and was leaking so crept upto motor?

What spanner do you guys use to get to nut on the back of one of these diverter valves. I wanted to take the whole block out but couldn't get into unscrew the back nut
 
not sure about this particular model but often a monument basin spanner works on difficult nuts
 
not sure about this particular model but often a monument basin spanner works on difficult nuts

Tried my crows foot and my expensive ones but to no joy. Just kept slipping off. Thought I would be there for half an hour but ended up being an hour and a half.

I am just going to put in a reconditioned pcb as if I go and get a fuse and this doesn't work it won't be funny
 
And aren't there fuses in the terminal strip? 2a quick blow...there are 2
 
Sorry chaps, the operating head I mean. Wrong word used.

I looked for the spare fuse but none. And by the time I go and collect a new fuse, new control head and new control motor and put it back and the pcb has gone, it is worth the ÂŁ40 for a reconditioned one isn't it? It's actually an hour from where I live so a long old trip
 
So are you guys saying I should just buy a new fuse and not pcb? Do you all have a spare set of quick blow fuses on the van
 
Also, you know when you pull out a temp sensor lead and the little flimsy plastic latch breaks, do you need to replace the whole sensor or does someone have a trick
 
Also, you know when you pull out a temp sensor lead and the little flimsy plastic latch breaks, do you need to replace the whole sensor or does someone have a trick

You can just plug the sensor back in, yes I carry fast blow fuses. They're very handy for that balls up situation. The fuselage normally where the live connects in to the boiler, it's got a little plastic bit that sticks up so you can pull the fuse.
Are you sure it's an 80e? They don't have motors on the diverter.
 
2015-02-20 08.15.24.jpg

Here you go
 
Ah, that's an instant He. Yes there's a fuse in there. Right by the live connection. Try that first.
 
The HE is a different beast. Any issues with diverters on an Baxi take the side panel off is there is access to the left. Makes your life easier.
 
The HE is a different beast. Any issues with diverters on an Baxi take the side panel off is there is access to the left. Makes your life easier.

No access to the left from the side panel unfortunately
 
I carry a selection of fuses.

Usually a basin spanner will get the back nut off the preheat section of the diverter. But if you are just changing the diverter, you can leave that piece in situ (i think)
 
Well as I couldn't get the whole diverter out, I just bought a new cartridge for it And new motor and the cable that connects it to the pcb. But when I put it all back together, it leaked every where around the diverter. Obviously I had disturbed the joints trying to get the whole diverter out. But one bit I cannot get to seal is the pipe that connects into the back at the bottom with the clip. The clip fits on but it still just pours out. I guess my only option now is to pull the boiler off the wall.

It's getting me down this job. I really was only doing it as a favour to some friends. I am so busy so had to do in an evenings but now I need to go back after work again tonight to fix.

Tough old job sometimes this is
 
The instants can be a right b#stard to work on and make water tight. Check the pressure vessels ok before you leave.
 
The instants can be a right b#stard to work on and make water tight. Check the pressure vessels ok before you leave.

You certainly aren't kidding there. I think next time I shall just change part's of the hydro and not try and get the whole thing out. Still cannot believe how difficult it has been though
 
silcone and ptfe tape can sometimes save the day

Ended up finding a tube of liquid ptfe in the bottom of my tool bag so walked that on. It did the trick.

Now what I can't remember now is which sensing tube goes where on the hot water diverter valve. each tube can go to either place. Does the one on the far right go to the back of the diaphragm, and the one closer to the hot diverter valve go to the one at the front of diaphragm? I cannot make it out from the diagram in the manual
 
You might have to try both ways, I've never got them mixed up tbh.
 
Does anyone know where you can buy a selection of washers from 6mm up? When ever I seem to take something apart in a boiler the washer just crumbles and I don't have one that fits. This happened with the sensing tubes.

Also seems to be the same with Orings. The one's on the boilers seem to be a lot thicker than the one's you can buy in shop
 
You might have to try both ways, I've never got them mixed up tbh.

I ended up mixing them up as I took them off to try and get the hydro block out and left them out over night. Then when I put back together they could go either way
 
Does anyone carry a selection of small washers for boilers and things For When you take a sensing pipe out and lose the washer or the washer crumbles and then you're stuffed. If so, where do you buy them from and what sizes
 
Does anyone carry a selection of small washers for boilers and things For When you take a sensing pipe out and lose the washer or the washer crumbles and then you're stuffed. If so, where do you buy them from and what sizes

I ordered a load of the correct ones for the job, I couldn't find any small ones to fit the sensing tubes.
 
Thanks Leo. I have heard people cut them to size before. I tried it but they ended up having edges on them. Not great when they're supposed to be round
 
Thanks Leo. I have heard people cut them to size before. I tried it but they ended up having edges on them. Not great when they're supposed to be round

Ive done that in an emergency, Google a firm called gas apliance spares. They're really knowledgable, they're mail order and they carry a huge stock.
 
Get your self a monument tap spanner. It hasn't got a spring built in so it is great for getting to those hard to reach nuts as the head is only small. I broke mine after about 10 years use and couldn't remember the make of it so spent hours trying to find exactly the same.

I also carry loads of 1, 2 and 3a fast blow fuses and an assortment of washers, mainly regin ones as that's what plumb stocked when I worked for my last company I will be looking elsewhere now as you can get big bags for less.

When it comes to o rings I only ever use manufacturers ones as I had one pour out years ago after 2 days. So look at what o rings you need then order them as well or sometimes it's easier to order an o ring pack for the boiler (I'm thinking the old CDI as they always seem to start leaking after you touch them.
 
So this boiler is causing me no end of trouble. It seems that the hot water works fine when the heating hasn't been on for a while. Cooled down. Then, after the heating has been on for a while the hot water only gets luke warm. Any ideas. It only seems to not work when ever I am not there. When ever I am there it doesn't work
 
Ive done that in an emergency, Google a firm called gas apliance spares. They're really knowledgable, they're mail order and they carry a huge stock.

Second that mate, I order Worcester washers through them.
 
Sounds like you've still got a problem with the Diverter. Have you tried taking the head off and moving the pin manually.
 
The pin moves freely and makes the switch every time. It recognises and lights but just doesn't get hot. But it's fine when the heating circuit is warm and not hot
 
What about the dhw differential ? The small one. Could be related to the pressure being higher when its hot, allowing the hydrolocs to work.
 
What about the dhw differential ? The small one. Could be related to the pressure being higher when its hot, allowing the hydrolocs to work.

This is the one I am talking about. All is good with it
 
that diverter diverts throught the expansion vessel to give pre heat and by pass .I fitted external vessel to one as baxi said I could worked ok with hw temp on full but when pre heat turned down only got luke warm ended up fixing preheat knob to full .
 
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