22mm toilet overflow pipe

[Trev78]

Hi all,

Just on the last knockings of my bathroom refurb.

I need to extend the 22mm plastic overflow pipe to the toilet. I assumed this was 21.5mm until I tried some solvent weld fittings that were overly tight.

Where can I get fittings at 22mm? Are they solvent weld or some kind of push fit?

Many thanks!

Trev

 

[Riley]

Any good merchant should be able to help you out. Either with compressions or 21.5-22 reducers

 

[Riley]

Any good merchant should be able to help you out. Either with compressions or 21.5-22 reducer solvent weld

 

[Paulplumb]

You might be better off changing the siphon in the cistern to a siphon including an integral overflow so that the water overflows down the pan if the inlet valve fails. Much better job.

 

[Trev78]

Thanks guys. Is the integral overflow siphon available for a closed coupled, old (victorian) style toilet?? Internal cistern height is 11" (about 280mm).

 

[Riley]

There are a couple of alternatives but again a good merchant should be able to guide you. If you can post a couple of snaps someone on here could probably recommend

 

[Trev78]

Does this look ok? http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/opella-dual-flush-siphon/20824#product_additional_details_container

Is there a cap I can buy for the wall end of the overflow? I've already done the tiling and the pipe is poking out of the wall!!

 

[JCplumb]

If it's a push button type bang a fluidmaster siphon in there.
For handle types I've been using the following lately, the adjustable height is good for getting the overflow level spot on.
Skylo Dual Flush Height Adjustment Syphon | Toolstation

You can get white 22mm solvent weld stop ends to cap off your overflow, but if I were you I'd fix the overflow for the price of a connector, I think it will look better than a pointless pipe poking out of the wall.

 

[Trev78]

I think I have fixed the overflow issue now. Next challenge is the doughnut seal in the new coupling kit is too thick. Fits the nut perfectly. Can this be cut down as the original was a lot thinner and allowed the cistern to sit correctly on the back of the pan.
The second issue is the siphon. Original was 9.5", been sold a 9" Dudley turbo 88. Will this work ok? Will the flush handle sit correctly?

 

[rpm]

Remember the old donut has been compressed for some time that why it looks wrong.

Think the 88 is adjustable for height.

 

[Trev78]

It's completely different, original was defiantly flat and allowed the cistern to sit closer to the pan. I will break something if I do it any tighter! [emoji38]

 

[Trev78]

Forgot to say! It's the fixed 88...

Thanks for your help so far!

 

[rpm]

It fits the nut perfectly because that`s pretty much a standard size but with so many different close coupling toilets on the market now welll ......

You`ve got 61 posts now so you should be able to post photographs which always help the guy`s to help you quickly. Personaly I`ve never cut a donut but perhaps others will say differently.

 

[JCplumb]

The cistern doesn't need to sit right against the pan, the donut stops any water getting past and coming out of the gap.
As long as the donut seals the part where the tail of the flush goes into the hole in the pan you don't need to tighten any further.

 

[rpm]

Just wondering now if the donut could be upside down.

 

[Trev78]

Trouble is, the holes in the wall are not in line with the doughnut. Here is a picture, original on left...

 

[rpm]

Hope you meant original on right. Looks like a normal donut to me thats been compressed.
The face of the donut that`s resting on the floor goes against the bottom of the cistern so that the concoured face of the donut goes in to the toilet pan and tighten the nut`s.

 

[Trev78]

Doh, yes original on right!
The orientation I fitted it in was as you state - but it's too tall compared to the original, and where the holes are in the tiled wall!

I assume I need a 9.5" siphon as per original, as the 9" appears to set the handle at an angle.

I didn't think using the original toilet would give me such an ache!

 

[Best]

I think the original washer was a flat washer & not domed. They go the shape yours has got (with tapered outer edge & ridge in centre), when fitted. Go and buy a flat washer from merchants.

 

[rpm]

I think the original washer was a flat washer & not domed. They go the shape yours has got (with tapered outer edge & ridge in centre), when fitted. Go and buy a flat washer from merchants.

I live n learn.

 

[PhoenixServices]

The original is a flat doam one by the look of things.

 

[Best]

On your other point of the height of syphon making the handle sit at an angle - This is incorrect, as what you can use is a longer link wire, which you can buy at DIY & merchants.
A Dudley height adjustable syphon can be set for correct height. If you set it at a low enough height for internal overflowing, then make sure it is perfect by overflowing the cistern to check water level doesn't reach handle or other holes.

 

[Best]

I live n learn.

I got my specs on & had to enlarge the image on my iPad. :smile:
I try to keep a few different types of them washers.

 

[Trev78]

I've tried about 3 merchants - no luck! That was plumbase, plumb centre and another.. No joy! Not many local type firms round these parts now. The other part they offered me was a ideal standard type - totally wrong.

Is there a national firm that has these available do you know?

Also, assume I have to get the 9.5" siphon?

 

[Trev78]

Or just the longer link?

 

[Paulplumb]

1.5 inch flat doughnut

2 inch flat doughnut

Have a peek at those Trev

 

[Best]

Lower syphon will be fine as it just means the water level has to be a lower max level, but that won't matter in your toilet & probably can be to normal water line anyhow. Only problem apart from link wire short is the Ballvalve arm can easily get jammed on the upper bit of the syphon as the arm moves up & down. It is a case of touching one thing causes more problems! I would tended to have just connected up the overflow pipe as that syphon you have is a good one.
But if you wish you could fit a lower syphon with a longer link wire (if needed) & possibly consider the ballvalve MIGHT have to be replaced with a vertical fill valve like a Fluidmaster or similar.

 

[rpm]

As part of my education just how many different types of donuts are there ?

 

[Paulplumb]

Here's a twyfords one :tounge_smile: There's loads mate

 

[rpm]

How I sometimes wish for the old days when there was less options on everything.

 

[dancinplumba]

What was wrong with the good old syphon ??

 

[Trev78]

The siphon in the pic is the replacement - they gave me a 9" instead of a 9.5". The original 9.5" was a Dudley cascade s7b.

The arm is close on the new one!

 

[Trev78]

The old siphon didn't pull the handle very well. Instead of refurbishing, I thought I was clever replacing as the rest of the bathroom is fresh... A mistake, possibly!

 

[Trev78]

All works now! Thanks all for your help!

 

[Best]

Looks nice and clean & neat! Is that white silicone between the pot & the floor? Better with clear, believe it or not. White shows too much.

 

[Trev78]

Thanks! It is white sealant - Dow Corning 785. I'll keep an eye for it getting manky!

 

[Best]

Thanks! It is white sealant - Dow Corning 785. I'll keep an eye for it getting manky!

I found white silicone tended to be too obvious & also shows every little irregularities in the surfaces - particularily if floor tiles have grooves and also at the tile joints. Clear silicone will not show these & frankly the 'dark' joint you get using clear silicone looks better even on white tiles. Try just setting a new pot on top of tiles & you will find the unjointed base actually looks better than a white jointed base, imo anyhow. Wall tiles to basins I use white silicone ("Forever White" which is guaranteed to stay white & no mould) on basins to walls etc.
Dow Corning 785 I found was going mouldy in wet places like shower tray joints.

 

[Trev78]

Thanks for the advice.
I'll leave it as is for now, but will remove and replace in the future if goes mouldy or looks bad. Any tips on removal? Is use builders wipes and a Stanley blade...

 

[Best]

It still looks pretty good in that photo & I would be happy to leave as is. Just thought I would mention my preference for clear silicone on floor. Also prefer clear to chrome shower doors frames (very little used & not really showing).
I remove silicone much the same as you, but have bought a plastic tapered silicone removing tool that I have not tried it. I discovered some of the cleaning sprays attacks the old silicone which is handy. Problem is the risk of scratching the surfaces. I never nowadays use loads of silicone as there is no point in it & it is wasteful but on top of that it is too hard to remove later & what it sticks together.
One thing I highly highly recommend is those silicone tooling shapes. Brilliant & wipe all the excess fresh silicone away & shape the joint depending on which corner shape you use.

 

[Trev78]

By cleaning sprays, what kind of thing do you mean?

I have some rubber ended tools for silicone profiling.

 

[Best]

I can't remember the spray I have, but it is the cleaner of the same make as one of the polymer sealants. I will look at it & come back to you on that. It won't remove all silicone but will help remove layers of it.
The "rubber" tools I have for working silicone are actually made of silicone rubber & have different corner shapes - all tapered of square, round & various bite shapes corners. I got them from Lidl for about £4. I find I can get them to flex against the tiles, removing all the silicone even where the tiles have dips or joints. I should have had them years ago.

 

[Best]

By cleaning sprays, what kind of thing do you mean?

The name of it is Solvall cleaner. Same maker as Solvall Sealfix.