Air in CH system and hot water returning to FE tank via the cold feed

[Tiggy1955]

I have a problem with air being sucked into my CH system creating airlocks in the radiators. The water is flowing back into the FE tank via the cold feed pipe. I can feel warm water coming through the feed pipe back into the tank as the tank water level slowly get higher. I can hear the overflow gurgling in the FE tank.

The system is 20 years old but the Worcester Bosch boiler is only 9 years old. All has worked perfectly well. I did have the classic blockage where the cold feed meets the hot return but the clogged pipes have been cut out and replaced.

I have fitted a new pump and it is set to the lowest speed. All of the radiators have been bled many times and balanced.

So the heating is working fine except that I have this problem of the air displacing the water back to the FE tank. The water it getting back into the tank a quite a rate - I would say about 2 litres per hour. This means that the rads need to be bled constantly.

Any ideas? Could it be an problem with the boiler itself?

 

[Ric2013]

First question: can you confirm that there is water in the F&E?

 

[Ric2013]

The water it getting back into the tank a quite a rate - I would say about 2 litres per hour. This means that the rads need to be bled constantly.

Can you re-word this please: not sure what you mean.

 

[Tiggy1955]

First question: can you confirm that there is water in the F&E?

Yes the tank is full. As the heating runs I can see the sediment being moved around the FE tank. I put my hand in the tank and you can feel warn water coming back in via the feed outlet.

 

[Tiggy1955]

Can you re-word this please: not sure what you mean.

The FE tank is fall as normal. However when the heating is running I can see the sediment at the bottom of the tank being moved around. I put my hand into the tank and can feel warm water coming back in via the cold outlet.

Because the tank is therefore getting fuller I scooped about 2 litres of it out. I turned the CH off. Bled all of the rads and did this again and about 30 mins later a further 2 litres had come back in. Is is not coming from the expansion pipe but I can hear that gurgling.

 

[Ric2013]

Hmm. So the water level continues to rise in the F&E even after the system is warmed up. And even if you continually bleed the radiators, the water rises in the F&E.

I assume you are taking water out of the F&E because there is no overflow?

 

[Tiggy1955]

Hmm. So the water level continues to rise in the F&E even after the system is warmed up. And even if you continually bleed the radiators, the water rises in the F&E.

I assume you are taking water out of the F&E because there is no overflow?

Yes the water is rising all the time. I have to bleed the rads every time the heating has been on. There is an overflow but I elected to scoop it our rather than let it get that full. In fact it was a pool of water outside that alerted me to the fact that water was returning to the FE tank.

 

[John.g]

I have a problem with air being sucked into my CH system creating airlocks in the radiators. The water is flowing back into the FE tank via the cold feed pipe. I can feel warm water coming through the feed pipe back into the tank as the tank water level slowly get higher. I can hear the overflow gurgling in the FE tank.

The system is 20 years old but the Worcester Bosch boiler is only 9 years old. All has worked perfectly well. I did have the classic blockage where the cold feed meets the hot return but the clogged pipes have been cut out and replaced.

I have fitted a new pump and it is set to the lowest speed. All of the radiators have been bled many times and balanced.

So the heating is working fine except that I have this problem of the air displacing the water back to the FE tank. The water it getting back into the tank a quite a rate - I would say about 2 litres per hour. This means that the rads need to be bled constantly.

Any ideas? Could it be an problem with the boiler itself?

Has this problem occured since the new pump fitting, if so you might post the make/model of the old pump and ditto for the new pump.

 

[Tiggy1955]

Has this problem occured since the new pump fitting, if so you might post the make/model of the old pump and ditto for the new pump.

No. It started before. I replaced the pump like for like (Grundfos UPS2). In actual fact I did't really need to replace the pump but did so at this time as a precaution because I know the last one that was fitted was a second hand one.

 

[John.g]

No. It started before. I replaced the pump like for like (Grundfos UPS2). In actual fact I did't really need to replace the pump but did so at this time as a precaution because I know the last one that was fitted was a second hand one.

The new pump will or should have PP (proportional pressure) control.
The present fixed speed setting 1 is equivalent to a 4M pump and for
most systems should not cause any pump over problems... however you could try setting it to one of the 3 PP settings which are all fairly close, I would suggest trying it on PP2 which will reduce the head considerably at the cost of reduced circulation through the system but might still be quite adequate for your purposes, if no pump over at this setting, I would suggest increasing it to PP3, if you still have pump over (at PP2) reduce it to PP1.

 

[Tiggy1955]

The new pump will or should have PP (proportional pressure) control.
The present fixed speed setting 1 is equivalent to a 4M pump and for
most systems should not cause any pump over problems... however you could try setting it to one of the 3 PP settings which are all fairly close, I would suggest trying it on PP2 which will reduce the head considerably at the cost of reduced circulation through the system but might still be quite adequate for your purposes, if no pump over at this setting, I would suggest increasing it to PP3, if you still have pump over (at PP2) reduce it to PP1.

The pump has 3 speed settings. Initially it was on 3 and I thought that was the problem so it is currently set to 1 and the problem still exists. I should mention we are in a bungalow so I think 1 is adequate anyway.

 

[Ric2013]

This doesn't sound like pump-over at all. And if the system is correctly designed, then the speed of the pump is immaterial.

I take it when you turn the boiler off and the system cools and you bleed the radiators, the F&E level is not dropping back down? You'd need to isolate the float valve aka ballcock to check as otherwise it will refill the F&E automatically.

I'm going to come up with the hypothesis that you have a hot water cylinder and that the coil in it is leaking. This would explain the water rising, though not sure where the air issue fits in. Do you have a cylinder or do you have a combi-boiler?

 

[John.g]

The pump has 3 speed settings. Initially it was on 3 and I thought that was the problem so it is currently set to 1 and the problem still exists. I should mention we are in a bungalow so I think 1 is adequate anyway.

Agreed, speed setting 1 should be fine in normal circumstances but by selecting PP control it will reduce the head from say 3M to ~ 1.5/1.7M and IF the F&E tank "movement" dies down or ceases then at least it will tell you something.

 

[Tiggy1955]

This doesn't sound like pump-over at all. And if the system is correctly designed, then the speed of the pump is immaterial.

I take it when you turn the boiler off and the system cools and you bleed the radiators, the F&E level is not dropping back down? You'd need to isolate the float valve aka ballcock to check as otherwise it will refill the F&E automatically.

I'm going to come up with the hypothesis that you have a hot water cylinder and that the coil in it is leaking. This would explain the water rising, though not sure where the air issue fits in. Do you have a cylinder or do you have a combi-boiler?

When I bleed the rads the FE level does drop and water enters via the ballcock. Yes we have a hot water cylinder.

 

[Ric2013]

So if your ballcock were not refilling the F&E, and no overflowing took place, you think the volume of water in the system would stay the same? There isn't any being added, by, say, a leak from the coil in your hot water cylinder?