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This is a great tip! Although I'm not sure why you'd need ptfe on cylinder unions.

There is the odd occasion when you can't get the standard cylinder unions on and this could be handy (I used to do it). Most of the time now I use stainless steel cylinders which come with compression fittings already in place.
 
Must be a regional thing, I've always been taught to use female irons on cylinders and that is what I'm given by the merchants when I ask for the fittings for one.
 
i have to admit aswell for years i used FI on cylinders, normally got them in fittings packs from the company i was working for. I do use the proper unions now.
 
Got to say, I've use Fi's for years too!

If a comp' fitting would work on the cylinder, I would use that.
 
I am sure when I compared cylinder coil fittings to Fi's the Fi's were cheaper.
 
I haven't fitted a vented cylinder for a few years.


I've changed the odd one that's split, and they normally have FI fittings on em if my memory is right.
 
Must be a regional thing, I've always been taught to use female irons on cylinders and that is what I'm given by the merchants when I ask for the fittings for one.

Well there you go! Apologies for the slight!
 
I am sure when I compared cylinder coil fittings to Fi's the Fi's were cheaper.

Just checked plumbfix prices and 22 x 1"FI is exactly the same price as 22 x 1" cylinder unions.

I find cylinder unions quicker to use as there is no faffing about with tape though. Just a wee smear of jet blue.
 
Keep a pair of old 15mm and a pair of old Belmont type radiator valves in your van so if you are taking a radiator off without draining the system you can whack them on the radiator when disconnected so you don't drip black water around when you take it outside.
 
Keep a pair of old 15mm and a pair of old Belmont type radiator valves in your van so if you are taking a radiator off without draining the system you can whack them on the radiator when disconnected so you don't drip black water around when you take it outside.
Any chance of a pic to help us see what you mean.
 
Just checked plumbfix prices and 22 x 1"FI is exactly the same price as 22 x 1" cylinder unions.

I find cylinder unions quicker to use as there is no faffing about with tape though. Just a wee smear of jet blue.

Just checked plumb c. £3.80 for Fi £4.43 for cyl.union in EF.
 
Close the valves to keep the water in the system, undo the valves off the radiator and swap for your old ones, keeps the water in the radiator without having to rely on putting your thumbs over the holes!
 
Try looking at Williams and Co. prices, much better than those. A lot cheaper than Plumbfix as well.

Gonna order a cylinder and boiler from them this week, just printed off the account form :)
That reminds me to PM Ray.
 
Close the valves to keep the water in the system, undo the valves off the radiator and swap for your old ones, keeps the water in the radiator without having to rely on putting your thumbs over the holes!

Turn the radiator upside down ! But make sure bleed screw is closed !
 
Keep a pair of old 15mm and a pair of old Belmont type radiator valves in your van so if you are taking a radiator off without draining the system you can whack them on the radiator when disconnected so you don't drip black water around when you take it outside.
Or as I said a few weeks ago
When removing rads:
(Assuming you've prepared the system appropriately and have your old towels under the valves etc)..
Have a couple of male compression caps at hand (1/2 or 3/4 dependng) and, once the rad is undone from the valve, gently separate and lob the cap in between, then do your rad-side nut up. No need to drain inside the house, no leakage, just carry outside and empty there. (obviously this will make the rad heavier so this will only work if its a smallish rad, or if there are 2 of you, or if you look like Croppie and can lift one in each hand...:))

Read more: http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/p...umbing-no-banter-please-45.html#ixzz2PFZTWmMG
:37:
 
just crack the rad nut and use you wet n dry to suck up the rad contents, flick rad upside down and walk it out. No spills, no mess, no doing your back in! simples
 
Thanks for the heads up Danny. Bought one today. Thanks to mike for the idea too 2013-04-02 16.04.02.jpg
 
8e5ysyhe.jpg


I knew you'd all catch on eventually. You should have a non return and isolator on them really though folks.

P.s. this sprayer is about £6 at stax.
 
is this quicker than drainging a small amount of water from a towel rail, then topping up with chemicals??
 
keep your van tidy!!! save lots of time looking for tools and parts (AKA my mentor)
 
is this quicker than drainging a small amount of water from a towel rail, then topping up with chemicals??

There isn't always a towel rail.

Yes it's pretty darn quick. Not as quick as the Fernox F1 cans, but not far off.
 
invest in a listening stick, can help locate partial blockages. open all lockshields and trvs etc full then go round accessible pipework putting the stick on it. you usually get louder velocity noise in the local of a restriction.
 
invest in a listening stick, can help locate partial blockages. open all lockshields and trvs etc full then go round accessible pipework putting the stick on it. you usually get louder velocity noise in the local of a restriction.
pls post a link
 
Clean up after you've finished a job, even if the lady or gent of the house says it's fine.!!!
 
Check that all controls etc. are working before you start a job so that you don't get stitched up when they don't work afterwards.
 
Those of us of a certain age will remember from early childhood that to get milk from a tin it is necessary to make two holes so air gets in as milk comes out. Working on closed heating systems, once pressure is released, this principle has numerous applications:- Radiators can be drained by fixing hose to remote drain off and then opening air vent at radiator, Rad valves can be changed one at a time without drain down, inhibitor can be added by siphon and the replacement of air faulty air valves etc. is a doddle.
 
When called to deal with blocked sink always replace the bottle trap. The client will perceive more value in the replacement than the one minute it takes to clean the existing and the husband will not be embarrassed for not having done it himself.
 
When called to deal with blocked sink always replace the bottle trap. The client will perceive more value in the replacement than the one minute it takes to clean the existing and the husband will not be embarrassed for not having done it himself.
Are you suggesting that the bottle trap should be replaced with another bottle or replaced with a tubular trap, because the sink is blocked ?
 
Not commenting on merits of traps but on clients perception of value. People who would not get out of bed for less than £500.00 per day begrudge paying us half that sum to cover our costs and wages. Won't even comment on pensions and holidays.
 
probs been covered before but when fitting for customers who know your job 10 times over mark the fittings with illumines pens the ones the require blue light to see then you can see that they have taken the trap off and put it back on and then for some strange reason its threaded and leaking just saved a bit of agro!
 
McAlpine make a 20mm plastic compression union, keep a few on the van. These are invaluable for repairs to overflow or condensate pipes as they will take the slightly bigger and slightly smaller variants of pipe.
 
...
A temporary fix for a faulty expansion vessel: drain and refill the system and bleed all radiators except 1 this radiator will act as a temporary expansion vessel

And it will work even better if you stop the flow through this radiator - i.e. close one (and only one) of the two valves
 
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