Discuss Making the Perfect End Feed Solder Joint in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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tuttogallo

I prefer using end feed type copper fittings and I have had a good success rate.

However, I usually get an ugly drip of solder. Could anyone advise how I could avoid that and make a really neat job?. I know I am being a bit OCD about this, but that's just me!

thanks

tuttogallo
 
I love cats, got two (3) black furry beauties myself, but as a day to day job, mmmmmm, might be better off being a plumber :)
 
I love ginger especially irn bru but i like a bit cream soda too. That dandelion and burdock is not ginger. It's rotten.

No call for plumbers in the malt distilleries. They just lap up the leaks.
 
Translation
ginger = juice

We don't condone slagging the glow in the darks up here. You get used to it and quite handy for finding your **** :wink:
 
Never read so much information about how to solder a joint,

Fantastic,

1. cut out all copper in sight
2. replace with plastic
3. plastic joints
4. flexibles

When in a spot and have to use copper then buy the glue that joints them, now what is that called, system 3 can you help here?
 
Some more information on soldering, given the op wanted to work toward perfection:

Why Wet cloth and dry cloth?

The use of a dry cloth removes the excess flux 'before' you start soldering (most important tip)

The use of the wet cloth removes the flux residues after the joint has set, and you have finished soldering.

However, a note to those plumbers who insist on wiping around the joint after the solder has been applied, to make a neat looking 'wipe' mark.

This is a habit from the days of leaded solder when the plastic range of the solder made it such, that the solder was still mushy and could be worked for a few seconds after soldering - I too had this habit of wiping around the joint - but it is not needed.

Lead free solder has a different 'plastic range' and will set quickly. If you can wipe away lead free solder snots, then you have made the following actions that are just not required:

1. You have applied too much solder in the first instance risking waste of resources, time, money.
2. You have applied too much heat in order that lead free has plastic range which risks oxidising the joint.
3. You have risked 'cracking' the joint because you have touched it during its 'setting' stage.

If we wish to move our existing skills to those of mastery we sometimes need to recognise 'reasoned' scientific arguments. If people wipe around their joints and they have always done it, and had no problems, then they are masters of waste, and plug their ears when others advise - this is also an outcome of mastery, because we are capable of doing things the wrong way for years, but still achieve a desirable outcome - I am guilty of this too, but perhaps not for soldering!
 
Some more information on soldering,
.... Lead Free .... Cleaning Snots

1. You have applied too much solder in the first instance risking waste of resources, time, money.
2. You have applied too much heat in order that lead free has plastic range which risks oxidising the joint.
3. You have risked 'cracking' the joint because you have touched it during its 'setting' stage.


Cheers , so if you can wipe a lead free .... you've done it wrong

and should not be prodding it while it sets
 
I only wipe once it has cooled slightly. My pet hate is to see green joints where the flux residue has been left on. Yack.
 
thanks to everyone who replied.

As well as advice on making the perfect solder joint. I have also learned about:
- cats
- unblocking toilets
- female plumbing
- activities of electricians

Amazing!!

thanks again everyone
 
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thanks to everyone who replied.

As well as advice on making the perfect solder joint. I have also learned about:
- cats
- unblocking toilets
- female plumbing
- activities of electricians

Amazing!!

thanks again everyone

Pleasure Tutto, we've a wealth of knowledge and information available to those who ask and those who dont!
 
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