Discuss Installing New Rads - Supply Pipes Slightly Different Positions In Concrete Floor in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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All depends on what finish the customer wants and how much they are willing to pay. Dig the pipes ideally but the ways listed above are workable alternatives if the customer doesn't want to pay.
 
The op states it's his own bungalow, nothing wrong with the other options I agree.
 
Someone should have invented a telescopic radiator by now.
 
Installing New Rads - Supply Pipes Slightly Different Positions In Concrete F...

I got a job lot of jubilee clips if you want. 150 a 175mm bands but they will crank down to 15mm I'm sure.
 
Few wraps of ptfe would give a water tight seal.....or a can of crazy foam :2guns:
 
Flexi anyone? Ballofix and a 900mm flexi?

If you do use a flexi to join up a radiator, then simply turn the rad valves upside down & connect the flexies in a big loop downwards to the pipes. That way you won't kink the flexi & therefore do an unprofessional job.



:smile:
 
Don't know if you are a full time Plumber ! but what you are asking is quite a basic type of a everyday problem, when replacing old size radiators, and easily overcome using the correct fittings
 
What else would you call a street elbow?

M&F (male and female)

In this situation, always try to go bigger with the rad, mount it higher if possible to give yourself the most room to work with. Don't forget, your rad valves don't have to be upright, the heads can go horizontal (trvs are designed to be used this way). If you need to angle the pipe it looks better.
 
Firstly, many thanks for all of your replies. Surprised how much help I've had with this one. To clear up any confusion over user name, my now departed father was a plumber. He put this system in, in the early 80s and it still runs really well on the original Concorde WRS boiler. I'm not a plumber, but I did occasionally help him.

So, am I to understand that putting a small offset in a short length of pipe, possibly with an internal spring, would be difficult? I may be able to heat the pipe if this helps? This may be the neatest way for some rads. However, I'm not dead set on this way of piping the rads, as some others have suggested good alternatives. Will have to look at these options and see which may work for each rad to be replaced.

One thing that was mentioned was digging up some of the concrete (screed?) to change the pipes properly. I was assuming that the pipes would be difficult to get to and may be coated in whatever they are set into. But I suppose they may be covered in something for protection. What am I likely to find if I start chiselling up the floor around the pipes? Will the pipes be in a good enough condition/state to allow soldering onto them? Presumably the top layer is screed, how easy is this to excavate - easier than normal concrete?
 
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The screed is normally just a dryish sand & cement mix & is not usually very dense like concrete.
Once you cut a small hole in it, you can enlarge it very easily, even using a club hammer & cold chisel. The screed can be 3 to 6 inch max deep normally.
 
The pipe will possibly have a green tape called Denzo wrapped around it but after all those years it's probably dried up so pull it off and clean the pipe before soldering. + 1 for above (Best) the screed is generally easy to break but just go steady until you know where the pipe is and how deep it is buried.
 
Thanks for your replies Best and ch4.

Another question. A couple of the rads I'm replacing will really need to have an offset in each pipe up from floor to valves. I will cut the existing straight pipes near the floor. Then, because there is limited space between floor and window sill to mount rads, I will have a new piece of pipe to join the cut off pipe near floor up to rad valves of approx 5" in height.

Bearing in mind that a pipe of 5" is quite short, what is the best way of putting an offset in it? Will I manage it with a spring? If this would be difficult, would heating it help?
 
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