Help my family get warm please. cold water feed issue?

[Andybrad]

Ok a long story here. Ill split it up into a bit of background and where were at now.


/Background/

We moved into a new house in February last year. A detached house a bit bigger than our old 1 bed terraced. It was cold. The heating was on about 4:30pm and things wouldn’t start to get remotely warm till about 9pm. So the rad in the front room (furthest away from the boiler and where we are sitting) only got hot at the top. I took this to be possibly a blocked rad. Took it off and flushed it through with a hose in the garden. Got some black crud out of it and back on. Still the same. I then gave up and asked a heating “engineer” to pop round. He diagnosed the problem as a sticky trv valve. Drained the system and fitted a new one (plus a few more downstairs) the water while draining down the system didn’t look too black or anything so I thought nothing else of it. The engineer said the system was air locked. He diagnosed the problem as a loop above the diverting valve as shown here. So this time I asked him to fit a vent so we could bleed it and refill.

Heres a pic of the loop
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...6101692336468939074&oid=108267992033991783465.


Ok so this was done and we start filling up the system again after the TRVs are installed. Can we refill it? Can we buggery. After half an hour of faffing it was decided to “back fill” using a hosepipe to one of the radiator take offs. Another half hour + later we had all the rads with some water (but not full) in them but it took another hour for the boiler to fire and warm the rads though. Like there was a massive air lock in the boiler and it was tripping out.

Once it got going we had a warm radiator in the front room about 2 hours after the boiler kicked in. this is the best its been. However the engineer is suggesting we now try a new pump to see if we can improve things.



After he had gone (the following week)I replaced the old pump with a variable speed wiko one. A slight improvement. However I couldn’t refill again. I ended up using an old fire extinguisher to force water down the cwf to the system. This worked and the system then filled.


/Background/



So its summer now and weve just had our first child. (a few weeks old) I need to get this sorted asap before the bad weather kicks in. (I don’t think a baby is going to like a 4 degC warm house!)
So the central heating is off at the moment. Ive got a weekend off baby duty to get this sorted so I need to hit it in one go. Im going to replace a couple of the woefully undersized rads (current output 1500 but required 4000btu) to try and improve matters. But the issue remains that were getting cold.
Nowthen another side to this is when the system goes onto heat the hot water we get massive “surges” of air it seems like. Im wondering if the vent to the hot water side (I can not see any vent on the rad side) is getting air pulled down it due to a blocked cold feed? As can be seen in this photo.

https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...6101692358935444402&oid=108267992033991783465


the cold feed comes from the loft and drops through the floor shown here
https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...6101913819630823602&oid=108267992033991783465


and feeds in under this pipe im pointing to.
https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...6101913822469059282&oid=108267992033991783465
at this point its slightly magnetic as well. This makes me think its partially blocked.


which then comes into this pipe back to the boiler
https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...6101913819831352578&oid=108267992033991783465


would there be any issue in cutting this out and capping it off then teeing into the last pipe shown from a vertical tee? Why does it turn under its self ?

ive asked the “engineer” to call out again and he doesn’t want to. And he admitted he doesn’t really know whats wrong.


Lastly any idea what this valve is for? Im guessing its for filling?

https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...6101913821000899714&oid=108267992033991783465


Anyways please help guys, I need to keep my family warm.





The full album can be seen here
https://plus.google.com/photos/108267992033991783465/albums/6101913436219624961

Many thanks

Andy

 

[ShaunCorbs]

if you dont mind me asking how much you looking to spend as there are a few options?????

and the sliver valve your pointing at is a bypass (say when the 3 port valve shuts and the pump is still running the water doesnt have any where to go, and the bypass if open lets the pump push the warm water around the system when the 3 port closes)

 

[Andybrad]

couple hundred quid tops?

what do you suggest are the options

 

[Andybrad]

although having said that it needs to work

 

[ShaunCorbs]

couple hundred quid tops?

what do you suggest are the options

sorry to say i dont think you will my options are below

all options power flush the system/ put some cleaner in the f and e tank and run for a week

option one re pipe and f and r to the cylinder and heating getting rid of that loop as thats causing your issues (gravity cold water doesn't normally like going up hill much)

option two if mains pressure is ok and boiler is compatible switch/convert to an unvented system

but tbh i would post in the section [DLMURL="http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/im-looking-plumber-gas-engineer/"]I'm looking for a Plumber or Gas Engineer[/DLMURL] as someone might be local to you

aslo can you take a pic of your f and e tank plz?

 

[Andybrad]

I ran x800 in the system for a month before flushing it out.

I could like to replace the cold feed but I don't want to run it full length to the loft (hence my question about chopping the effected loop out?) as its all plastered in and goes through the bathroom as well.

 

[stevetheplumber]

if there is a bypass valve on a threeway then it wrong three way valves are never closed the only silver valve i can see in the pictures is a balofix on a draw off from the cylinder vent
what i cant see is where the pipe work goes after the threeway and into the primary theres a tee going upwards??? also no throttle valve visible on the primary return means cylinder will be running full bore

 

[stevetheplumber]

just had another look and realised cold feed and vent are completely in the wrong place i suspect it was originally a gravity cylinder there and its been badly converted to fully pumped is the pipe going upwards of the primary the open vent?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

just had another look and realised cold feed and vent are completely in the wrong place i suspect it was originally a gravity cylinder there and its been badly converted to fully pumped is the pipe going upwards of the primary the open vent?

or diy as my first thought

 

[Andybrad]

Doh, just lost my post.

It could be anything. I don't know what the guys done before we moved in. I do need to get it sorted in one hit though as quickly as possible so any advice is greatly appreciated.

the tee in this pic goes to vent.
https://plus.google.com/photos/1082...6101913820547138034&oid=108267992033991783465

Do you think should put a gate valve in the inlet to the hwc then to throttle it down?

 

[Andybrad]

Also do you think its a sensible option (as I do) to cut out and refit that bend in the bottom of the cold water feed?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Also do you think its a sensible option (as I do) to cut out and refit that bend in the bottom of the cold water feed?

if i was you i would post in the section i have linked

 

[Andybrad]

I would but I need to save some pennies at the moment.

 

[stevetheplumber]

easiest way out will probably be to seal the system depending on which boiler you have. I doubt if a blocked cold feed is going to stop the system working if youve back fed it and its full of water
basically if you have no money theres not a lot anyone can do

 

[Plumbstar Tom]

The problem with a fault like this is there are a number of things wrong with the installation. Any decent plumber will initially advise to replumb it rather than trial and error at making quick changes. This isn't due to wanting to take more money from you, it's from experience that when you seen dodgy installations its always better to start over rather than just fix 'the worst part', test to see if it has improved it enough, then fix the next worst part, test....

I know you need to watch the pennies with the little one on the way and would rather fix it yourself but it really needs quite a few things looking at and thats only in the photos we can see.

Ball-o-fix valve shouts out DIY to me so i bet there are more issues elsewhere

 

[Andybrad]

Thanks for the honest response.

any rough guestimates on what it would cost for a refit?

 

[Andybrad]

Oh and by the way I would suggest im pretty competent at replacing pipework if required. Just would like to know the best method of going about it all

 

[plumben]

If it was me I would start with a full power flush,
As all though adding X800 and draining down will remover loose debris, only a power flush will move the stuff that's stuck solid, and if moneys tight i'd guess you'd be keeping the old rads to save on cost if you where to go with a full refit

 

[Dotty]

In all honesty you'd be far better off getting 3 or 4 quotes from guys who can come and look at it. Pictures do tell us a lot but then you might have missed summat a decent plumber would pick up on.

When you've got your quotes come back and ask us then.

 

[solutions]

You may well be competent at connecting pipework but it is understanding where and why you connect that is the important bit.
Whoever put your system in could connect pipe but didn't have a clue about getting it to work properly.
I don't know why your previous heating engineer could not find more fault with the system than the loop over the 3 port, get a better engineer who knows what he is looking at and how to put it right. Take some of the advise given and seek a good independent heating / gas engineer who is gas safe registered ideally who comes recommended (by someone you know and whos opinion you trust) and who is considered reputable and be prepared to pay what a skilled knowledgeable and reputable trades person costs ( more than your budget in labour alone). If need be sell the mountain bike and anything else of value till you can afford to make your cold cave a home for your child.

However I know it may simply not be that easy to raise the money and go about the work the proper way, So if you intend to keep the system open vented this is the minimum I would change ( see attached pics).

 

[joni os]

As above photos, was going to suggest similar but solutions does it better.

 

[plumben]

Can't go wrong with above

 

[REDSAW]

think i know who plumbed that up...

lawrence lewellen bowen!!!


air lock, last one i did was 2 days work and changing pipiwork. pumps running dry and wont last either as no vert vent. £4-500?
could try vacume on tank feed while back filling or boil it!

 

[stevetheplumber]

what boiler do you have its still probably cheaper to seal it up

 

[turnpin]

Got to say enjoyed reading this post to see just how much knowledge is here among the members .....regards Turnpin

 

[gassafe]

I'd do similar but with a nice combined feed & vent, pls autos instead of manual vents

 

[solutions]

I'd do similar but with a nice combined feed & vent, pls autos instead of manual vents

Each to their own, cant stand auto vents. But a combined feed vent should work as long as it is piped right.

 

[plumben]

Each to their own, cant stand auto vents. But a combined feed vent should work as long as it is piped right.

I prefer auto vents but with a valve before them so you can shut them off when they go wrong

 

[stani]

Does anyone think the brass valve in picture 9 is a non return valve left over from a gravity hw/pumped heating?

 

[gasmanrob]

Does anyone think the brass valve in picture 9 is a non return valve left over from a gravity hw/pumped heating?

I agree