Discuss Divert or valve potential issue. in the USA area at PlumbersForums.net

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Good Morning guys

thanks for accepting me to the group. I’m having an issue with the heating. I’ve searched the forums and internet and think I’ve got a faulty diverter valve. The problem is, as I couldn’t find the answer? My valve will go to heating only if the hot water is switched off. When both are timed to come on at the same time the heating won’t come on and the valve sits on W. It will not go to the middle position. Does this mean there is an issue with the valve or could it be the programmer?
I have a gravity fed boiler which was fitted about 3-4yrs ago before we moved in by British Gas. The valve is the Drayton type but with BG stamped on it.
thanks for your help.
I have no issue fitting the new valve just don’t want to waste my money in case it could be another issue.
 
Need more information.
What type valve and system?
Can you post photo's of the set up you have?
When you say Gravity fed, I presume you mean it is open vented fully pumped?
Is this a recent issue or has it done this since the Boiler was changed?
 
We need to be certain this is a mid position valve and not a diverter valve. Diverter valves always give priority to HW, not both at the same time.
It’s definitely a mid position valve. And it’s only been a recent issue. I’ve not done anything or changed anything on the timer.
[automerge]1604336760[/automerge]
It does sound like the 3 port valve, photo of said valve? Is it a w plan?
Not fully sure if it’s a W set up or not if I’m honest. Hope these pics can help?
funny thing is it’s now on mid position which it wouldn’t go to for the last week?? I did push the lever this morning surly that hasn’t just loosened it up?
[automerge]1604337006[/automerge]
Need more information.
What type valve and system?
Can you post photo's of the set up you have?
When you say Gravity fed, I presume you mean it is open vented fully pumped?
Is this a recent issue or has it done this since the Boiler was changed?
The boiler was fitted about 4yrs ago we’ve only been in the property 18months.
this has been an issue for a week.Hope that helps. Thanks
 

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Last edited:
Definitely a 3 port mid position, it’s a y plan, not w (diverter type as @SJB060685 mentioned). It couldn’t be hit and miss on the cogs, so yes, couldn’t have helped it along with pushing the lever.
 
Inside the valve head is a couple switches, a diode and a couple resistors. Its possible and I'm not saying is a problem with one of the above which is returning the valve to HW position.
 
Definitely a 3 port mid position, it’s a y plan, not w (diverter type as @SJB060685 mentioned). It couldn’t be hit and miss on the cogs, so yes, couldn’t have helped it along with pushing the lever.
Thanks for the info. Do you think I need to swap it out for a new one then? Is the Drayton one a worthy replacement I can pick one up from city plumbing tomorrow.
[automerge]1604357783[/automerge]
Inside the valve head is a couple switches, a diode and a couple resistors. Its possible and I'm not saying is a problem with one of the above which is returning the valve to HW position.
As mentioned to Aquarius is it worth while just replacing it? Thanks for the help appreciated.
 
You might be better removingbthe Drayton head,and turning the spindle, if stiff, then I’d look at renewing the complete valve. If it’s ok, there’s no harm in swapping the head, but reliability usually comes from Honeywell, but this would mean a partial drain down.
 
You might be better removingbthe Drayton head,and turning the spindle, if stiff, then I’d look at renewing the complete valve. If it’s ok, there’s no harm in swapping the head, but reliability usually comes from Honeywell, but this would mean a partial drain down.
Ok that’s fine I need to drain the system for a new radiator anyway. Thanks for your help appreciated.
 
This:


is a brilliant explanation of how the valve (assuming it is a mid-position valve) works. Personally I would be pulling out my multimeter (or judicious use of a volt stick at a pinch, being aware they can get partially illuminated by eddy currents and give false lives) and testing whether the valve is receiving the correct signals.

The valve is a common fault, and 4 years could be about right, but I just like to test things before I replace them. Depends, of course, whether you have the tools and skills. Obviously a stiff spindle would be a dead giveaway.
 
This:


is a brilliant explanation of how the valve (assuming it is a mid-position valve) works. Personally I would be pulling out my multimeter (or judicious use of a volt stick at a pinch, being aware they can get partially illuminated by eddy currents and give false lives) and testing whether the valve is receiving the correct signals.

The valve is a common fault, and 4 years could be about right, but I just like to test things before I replace them. Depends, of course, whether you have the tools and skills. Obviously a stiff spindle would be a dead giveaway.
Perfect thank you. I do have a multimeter so will check each live whilst switching the control panel. Cheers
 

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