Discuss Changing 3 Port Valve On Bungs in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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After a bit of advice please. System is completely conventional OV, 2 tanks, 3 port, etc.

Firstly, is it possible and advisable to change the 3 port valve on f & e bungs?

Secondly, I have the conical, rubber bungs, but the outlet for tank has splines in it. How can I get good seal with these bungs?

Lastly, any tips and advice re. bunging and changing the valve would be great - to avoid a tsunami! :bigcry:
 
Don't want to stat the obvious, but wouldn't it be quicker and safer just to drain down? You will still have to bleed the system after using the bungs! :confused5:
 
Secondly, I have the conical, rubber bungs, but the outlet for tank has splines in it. How can I get good seal with these bungs?

use a lump of plumbers mate in an old flannnel, you can manipulate it into the right shape
 
Don't want to stat the obvious, but wouldn't it be quicker and safer just to drain down? You will still have to bleed the system after using the bungs! :confused5:

Ive never really understood the fascination with bunging the system. Drain down takes no time at all.
 
Really? I use them all the time and if your careful they are much quicker then draining down, plus you don't have to reload the inhibitor.
 
I use bungs all the time too, some systems lock up just like that and them some you wonder why you didn't just drain it! 3 ports can some times be a pest because you have 3 open pipes where the air lock can break. Make sure you have everything you need to install the new valve to hand.

If you aren't confident and it will cause damage if the lock breaks then just drain it.
 
I see the advantage of bungs but personally I drain down and give the system the benefit of a flush whilst doing the work
 
Bung it all the way, specially if its a old system, don't want any crap sucking down the cold feed from the bottom of the F & E tank now, oooooo the panic on the faces of plumbers when they try to fill up and nothings happening
 
Same. Usually bung it, turn off top pump valve if gate type to leave 2 open ends. Crack nut on valve and into a bag. Usually about a pint. Much quicker than draining.

Although I've seen some lads trying to bung 2 floors to change a heat exchanger on a Fleixicom. Told him not to. Sooooooo funny
 
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