Mr Wilsons full system build

[Mr Wilson]

cont... the uploader started to freeze so thought id post before id have to re type ...
quick question would 5 bar be sufficient to pressure test or should i go higher?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

cont... the uploader started to freeze so thought id post before id have to re type ...
quick question would 5 bar be sufficient to pressure test or should i go higher?
View attachment 25404View attachment 25405

yes it would be fine

normally 1.5 times working pressure

so example

take your working pressure at 3 bar

3 + 1.5 = 4.5 so test upto 4.5 bar,

but sometimes your supplier of tube will give you an instruction to test like must test to 12 bar

 

[Mr Wilson]

looks good and old school using dirt as insu

how are you finding using the mlcp?

and what have you done

16mm to a main manifold, or you doing 25-32mm mains runs?

mate the main runs 20mm pex to the manifold although from the mainfold to this rad which is about a 15m distance its also the furthest rad on this zone. im kinda just hoping pressures will be sufficient ... it is also a bedroom so will only be about 18C. if i remember correctly in australia code on distances is like any run over 3m needs to be 20mm before you drop down to like 15mm its been a couple of years since i read code on this stuff. from memory 15mm- 20mm copper is standard size in oz

and loving the pex and crimp fittings ... but coppers way more fun to play with ... actually im gonna make a bathroom towl rack out of copper just for kicks.

 

[Mr Wilson]

3 + 1.5 = 4.5 so test upto 4.5 bar,

cheers mate ... 12 bar would be a little scary using air ... would be like making a high powered potato gun but inside the house ...:angelsad2:

 

[ShaunCorbs]

cheers mate ... 12 bar would be a little scary using air ... would be like making a high powered potato gun but inside the house ...:angelsad2:

on water in the uk you can go above 0.5bar with air unless you follow a very long list

 

[Mr Wilson]

random question regarding filling of pipework in wall.

looking at this image

should i just use a render to fill in and around connector ( in germany they use a type of clay. its not as strong as cement but harder than plaster) or should i use some expander foam around connectors as if i needed to go back into connector to say fix a leak removing the foam would be way easier than render.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

you should be fine if you leak tested it and i would use patching plaster/ what you use in Germany

if your unsure you could always wait until you finished the system and then fill in if you could ?

 

[Mr Wilson]

you should be fine if you leak tested it and i would use patching plaster/ what you use in Germany

if your unsure you could always wait until you finished the system and then fill in if you could ?

cheers shaun ... ill render it up than... wont be using the system till next winter or have the full build ready for water for at least another 6 months so im just gonna have to trust the pressure test.

 

[Howsie]

Out of interest, why have you chosen radiators over UFH?

 

[Mr Wilson]

Out of interest, why have you chosen radiators over UFH?

hea howsie...

i did look into UFH but with a house this size and age to do UFH could be a lot more work, cost a lot more than rads and uncover a lot more unseen issues.
id have to pull up floors (this room is the only floor that needed to be replaced) lay screeds and the extra weight of the screeds may effect the old joists.
i think there may be complications with all the extra pumps and zoning may create a headache for me and im far more confident with running rads myself than full house UFH. but i think it comes down to time i like UFH i think for its thermal benefits and it certainly adds value to the property but the extra time and cost to lay it makes it not so attractive a direction for me.
Im still in talks with the wife if we do UFH in both bathrooms but the problem come up with the screed weight and the lift height transition between hallways and bathrooms.

will have to see im nearly finished the 2nd bedroom and next will be main bathroom

 

[Howsie]

hea howsie...

i did look into UFH but with a house this size and age to do UFH could be a lot more work, cost a lot more than rads and uncover a lot more unseen issues.
id have to pull up floors (this room is the only floor that needed to be replaced) lay screeds and the extra weight of the screeds may effect the old joists.
i think there may be complications with all the extra pumps and zoning may create a headache for me and im far more confident with running rads myself than full house UFH. but i think it comes down to time i like UFH i think for its thermal benefits and it certainly adds value to the property but the extra time and cost to lay it makes it not so attractive a direction for me.
Im still in talks with the wife if we do UFH in both bathrooms but the problem come up with the screed weight and the lift height transition between hallways and bathrooms.

will have to see im nearly finished the 2nd bedroom and next will be main bathroom

I'd have gone for UFH. Cheaper to run in the long run, a much more comfortable and very easy to control and feed via multiple heat sources; Heat pump, boiler etc.

Hey ho.

 

[Mr Wilson]

I'd have gone for UFH. Cheaper to run in the long run, a much more comfortable and very easy to control and feed via multiple heat sources; Heat pump, boiler etc.

Hey ho.

howsie do you have an older place or did ya build new? i would prefer UFH i think its the best option if possible.
i think if we had a more modern type house ie concrete slab floors and not dirt clay and grass reeds , id look into it more seriously but this is a 200 year old building with about 300sqm of floor ... to put in UFH into this place becomes a pretty big job. i did also look into solar panels and IR ( infared panels ) for its thermal heating benefits much the same as UFH. but solar technology isnt quite developed enough to offset the setup cost.

 

[Howsie]

howsie do you have an older place or did ya build new? i would prefer UFH i think its the best option if possible.
i think if we had a more modern type house ie concrete slab floors and not dirt clay and grass reeds , id look into it more seriously but this is a 200 year old building with about 300sqm of floor ... to put in UFH into this place becomes a pretty big job. i did also look into solar panels and IR ( infared panels ) for its thermal heating benefits much the same as UFH. but solar technology isnt quite developed enough to offset the setup cost.

I and the company I own have done them all. UFH would have been my choice based on what I've read. Large floor surfaces plead for UFH as it gives a lovely even warmth.

I'd have a word with the plumber who designed it for you to ask why he preferred rads. What's done is done.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I and the company I own have done them all. UFH would have been my choice based on what I've read. Large floor surfaces plead for UFH as it gives a lovely even warmth.

I'd have a word with the plumber who designed it for you to ask why he preferred rads. What's done is done.

He's designed and installed it him self

 

[Howsie]

Have you done heat loss calculations for the property?