Discuss non condensing high efficiency boiler in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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The boiler efficiency rating as to be 90% and above, so not necessarily it has to be a condensing boiler, if we can reach that level of efficiency with a better heat exchanger without condensing we should be able to install it.
Am I wrong?
 
That is an impossibility. Most are running nowhere near their stated efficiencies (calculated from a bench test) and only slightly more efficient than the ones they replaced.


I must say that I'm not a true believer of what they say. But I have been told it many times and a quick search shows Kane talking about it too
http://www.kane.co.uk/tech-tips-faqs/389-boiler-efficiency
 
That is an impossibility. Most are running nowhere near their stated efficiencies (calculated from a bench test) and only slightly more efficient than the ones they replaced.
i totally agree 3 boilers i serviced last week
ideal classic 50 ff 90.1% efficiency,wb greenstar 28i junior 93% efficiency baxi duotec 33 mk1 96%
all this sedbuk bolox is just that
 
I just wanted to know the difficulties occurred wheninstalling an imported boiler.
I am a retired electronic engineer, plumbing and heatingwhere my first love when I was young notGas safe registered and I don’t want install anything by myself.
The boiler CE homologation number is: 1312BS5049
CE directive are:90/396-CE92/42 low temperature Rated.
The high efficiency without condensing is due to the “gasfired tube” heat exchanger, consisting of a number of vertical copper tubes long 650 mm wetted on a water cylinder theburner is right at the bottom by the time the exhaust gas exits (109c) hasexchanged a great degrees of temperature.
The DHW uses another coiled finned copper16mm diameter heatexchanger always submerged by hot water suitable for any pressure. No divertervalves are used so less problems.
Why I want to get itinstalled? There are not plastic manifolds, rubber hoses and narrow passagesplate heat exchangers, it can be fitted without problem on any old low pressurepipe system, iron pipe and cast iron radiators. It is made to last a lot longerthat any rubbish available in the market
The down fall (850 mm) long and it is heavier 57 kg of which36 are copper. Expensive
They do as well a condensing model using a post condensingunit reducing the flue gasses to 73 C. I am not interest on this model becauseit will be too big and heavy for my use.
For Desrob: it does exist it is not a UFO, just a properlyengineered boiler.
These boilers areonly sold to installers though a factory representative not to the likes of Tescoor any other unscrupulous merchant
 
The OP can't be bothered to tell us which boiler he is talking about, but the Homologation Number was sufficient!

[DLMURL]http://www.mcncaldaie.com/BluGas.pdf[/DLMURL] (it's in Italian!)

It's not listed on the Sedbuk database.
 
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The OP can't be bothered to tell us which boiler he is talking about, but the Homologation Number was sufficient!

[DLMURL]http://www.mcncaldaie.com/BluGas.pdf[/DLMURL] (it's in Italian!)

It's not listed on the Sedbuk database.
looks heaplike good luck getting spares for it
 
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Looks like something you would see fitted outside on a balcony whilst abroad on your hols, with no flue on for good measure!
 
Looks like if I will get this boiler installed I will be shot.
GasMan reckon that it is a heaplike. what does it mean? is it a technical term? maybe a new efficiency classification. Thank you Gas Man for your professional opinion but you never answer the asked question.
As well can't understand what vern mean ????
You people so called professionals failed to help me to take a decision based on pure technical ground. I am frightened to death as I know that Gas Man is in posses of an Axe , you convinced me I WON'T HAVE THIS BOILER FITTED.
Suggest me one good boiler which will last a long time even if it is made with a lot of expensive plastic, and I will be able to find lots of parts for the yearly repairs, and lots of powerflushing.
Thank you for all the help
 
Things designed to be used in hotter countries don't often do well in our weather !

( Not a GSR pro ) but daft enough to drive Citroen !
QUOTE=zzzjim;370668]Things designed to be used in hotter countries don't often do well in our weather !

( Not a GSR pro ) but daft enough to drive Citroen ![/QUOTE]
Hi zzz jiim
Have you ever been to northeast Italy between mid December and mid February?
The weather there is very stationary, that region is not exposed to north because is protected by the Alps but is open to east that mean to the Balkans and Russia there are weeks and weeks of fog and frost and Ice it is normal to get temperature of -10 -15 at night, you will see the sun at 11am and already gone by 15 due to freezing fog so thick that you can bump on a person.
When the easterly wind blows is like a razor cutting you ears. I remember as a little boy walking on the Venice lagoon.
The summer now is very hot almost tropical these days
I am also now driving a Citroen, when I was working I always had BMW as company car.
Regards
 
You people so called professionals failed to help me to take a decision based on pure technical ground.
You want to talk technical? What do you make of 109 degC? At what temperature do you expect water to condense? How does the boiler make sure that the flue gas temperature does not fall below 100 degC or what ever it is in your place?
And if how does it cope with condensate?
Has the efficiency been calculated against HuB or HoB if it is european? There are two different efficiencies avalaible. One includes the amount of heat gained from condensation and one does not.

Edit: if someone knows the italian equivalent for HuB and HoB please come forward.
 
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