what would you recommend

[mutley racers]

Upstand is the shape of tray or something isnt it? Something to do with tiles. Definitely need the feet for the fall.

 

[Dave Walker]

I thought up stands were the lip on top to tile in to and legs were riser kits

 

[mutley racers]

That's what I'm thinking

 

[Phil_Plumb]

yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc

 

[Plum Bob 66]

yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc

Are yes, now I see what you mean I've heard riser kits being called upstand a in the past. In that case I would recommend a tray with upstand to tile down onto. That way it ain't ever going to leak at the bottom seem.

 

[mutley racers]

Well nightmare 1st day. Tiles wouldn't come off without bringing the render with it. View attachment 13849

 

[mutley racers]

Also look what I found whil searching for mains stopcock

 

[mutley racers]

Shall I take it all back to brick and dot and dab or get a plasterer to fix it? Didn't mention to the client the possibility of this happening

 

[mutley racers]

Sorry the picture above is all blurry

 

[woodytheplumber]

dot and dabbing is fairly easy and staright forward use 12mm moister resistant everywhere apart from the shower area use a cement board there some can be adhesive on some cant so you may have to batten out a little bit but from reading your posts you are studwalling so that's all ok if you dot and dab using 8x4s I allow 1 bag of drywall addy per 2/3 boards depending on how far out the walls are you will need a solid bead of addy at somepoint behind the board for fire regs I put mine at the top and if you get the nack and get all your dots and the solid bed something like the same depth place the board onto the addy lift up off the floor tight to the celling with a pry bar and wedge then tap into level and squaire I use a 1800 and a 1200 level for dot and dabbing and a framing square from screwfix to ensure my internal corners are true in all ways when dot and dabbing give the walls a quick coat of srb thinned with water about 1 parts srb to 2 parts water and remember if your tilling it the plasterboard can hold more weight in tiles and adhesive unskimmed than it can when fully skimmed so just tank where appropriate and tile the lot hope this helps

 

[woodytheplumber]

give the walls a sbr befor dor and dabbing I didn't make that clear sorry and then follow manufactures destructions on the tile adhesive after when using bal tile addy I like to use bal's Sbr type gear just for any potential comeback

 

[mutley racers]

Thats great. Thanks for the advice feller. What's srb by the way?

 

[woodytheplumber]

its very similar to pva but with the heat and moister it wont become jelly like apparently pva does I have probably done 20/30 bathrooms using pva and not had a problem but from speaking to a plaster'er mate of mine he says use srb if the wall is very long like say over 4M it is sometimes worth stringing a chalk line and snapping it across the floor first to make sure your boards don't end up looking like the north sea

 

[woodytheplumber]

BAL Bond SBR Primer 1ltr | Topps Tiles I buy the Dunlop sbr for dot and dabbing and brand specific for tilling only because the Dunlop from selco is very good value! don't think I have ever got anything else from there though ha ha!

 

[mutley racers]

Awesome. Great advice there. Thank you