what would you recommend

Post new thread

Currently reading:
what would you recommend

Discuss what would you recommend in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
M

mutley racers

Esteemed
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Subscribed
Messages
5,170
Morning chaps, hope you are all having a great weekend and chilling n sun. I need some ideas really, the picture below is of a bathroom that is small. Has a 1400mm bath. Client wants to replace this bath with a double shower. But, you can see that the toilet soil pipe runs through the vanity unit and under the bath. But the bath waste is lower down on a seperate run. I just want to know what to do with the soil pipe? How to box it in and really, make it look like a good finish. I don't want it to be a mission to silicone around that side of the tray, but the boxing will come higher than the shower tray. Hope that make sense. 2013-07-06 10.17.57.jpg
 
Upstand is the shape of tray or something isnt it? Something to do with tiles. Definitely need the feet for the fall.
 
I thought up stands were the lip on top to tile in to and legs were riser kits
 
yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc
 
Phil_Plumb said:
yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc
Click to expand...

Are yes, now I see what you mean I've heard riser kits being called upstand a in the past. In that case I would recommend a tray with upstand to tile down onto. That way it ain't ever going to leak at the bottom seem.
 
Shall I take it all back to brick and dot and dab or get a plasterer to fix it? Didn't mention to the client the possibility of this happening
 
dot and dabbing is fairly easy and staright forward use 12mm moister resistant everywhere apart from the shower area use a cement board there some can be adhesive on some cant so you may have to batten out a little bit but from reading your posts you are studwalling so that's all ok if you dot and dab using 8x4s I allow 1 bag of drywall addy per 2/3 boards depending on how far out the walls are you will need a solid bead of addy at somepoint behind the board for fire regs I put mine at the top and if you get the nack and get all your dots and the solid bed something like the same depth place the board onto the addy lift up off the floor tight to the celling with a pry bar and wedge then tap into level and squaire I use a 1800 and a 1200 level for dot and dabbing and a framing square from screwfix to ensure my internal corners are true in all ways when dot and dabbing give the walls a quick coat of srb thinned with water about 1 parts srb to 2 parts water and remember if your tilling it the plasterboard can hold more weight in tiles and adhesive unskimmed than it can when fully skimmed so just tank where appropriate and tile the lot hope this helps
 
give the walls a sbr befor dor and dabbing I didn't make that clear sorry and then follow manufactures destructions on the tile adhesive after when using bal tile addy I like to use bal's Sbr type gear just for any potential comeback
 
its very similar to pva but with the heat and moister it wont become jelly like apparently pva does I have probably done 20/30 bathrooms using pva and not had a problem but from speaking to a plaster'er mate of mine he says use srb if the wall is very long like say over 4M it is sometimes worth stringing a chalk line and snapping it across the floor first to make sure your boards don't end up looking like the north sea
 
I also forgot to add since talking to my plaster mate probs 2 years ago I have only used sbr and not have a issue! and if your using 8x4s a solid bead at the top then 7 dobs down and 4 dobs across is plenty!!
 
2 or 3 inches from outside edges for me once its all gone off they are rock solid!
 
SBR is amazing stuff. You can put it on the dustiest, crumbliest, oldest wall, and when it's dried, all the dust is properly stuck to the wall and its tacky to the touch. Brilliant.
 
did you do any today mutley? how did you get on? its a messy job but fairly easy don't you think?
 
High woody, no didn't get around to it. Removed all tiles off the other side of bathroom and found lots of loose electrical cables going in all directions and not in conduit. Sparky said not good. So now have to wait for him to re-route them. Is he right in saying that cables shouldn't be routed in walls in bathrooms?
 
Well after all the info you guys gave me the clients ended up getting the place plastered. And now, all of the walls are wonky ane I cannot get a square edge any where. Tried cutting out bits of wall and it is a no go. 20130722_172858.jpg
 
I don't do tiling. She has oganised someone else. Think I am going to learn and insist that I do all the dot and dabbing and tiling from now on as this is just too much.

All the pipework is put together with compression fittings and I kicked a pipe and nudged it now I see a drip coming down the back of a corner unit in kitchen. Not looking forward to getting to that.

Must be nice when you work as a couple as then you can laugh at it. But on your own, it is not such fun. Below are some images of what else I found on this little cracker
 
New posts
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to what would you recommend in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

P
Access Point for existing Soil Pipe
Replies
3
Views
175
philboy
P
Tilers Forums UK
Tiling Tools
Plumbing Advice
UK Tiling Forum
DIY Talk
Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock