Moving stopcock (MDPE -> Copper)

[Skid]

Hello,

Just registered although browse the forums quite often as we're doing our house up. I'm putting in a new kitchen, and as such my sink has moved so I need to move my stopcock- the current position would reduce the space and original decision of the unit that it'd have to go in (was going to be deep drawers).

I've attached a picture below, but just wanted to ask is this common practice or not? Every plumber I've spoken to so far in south wales don't seem to be interested in coming out to quote at all.

The mains pipe is MDPE (I'm assuming anyway), which is connected onto copper, but directly (or via a very short bit of copper) onto the stopcock . I need to move my stopcock back a foot, and to the right a foot - the new pipe could be fit under the cupboards fine - there is a decent entry point in the sink cabinet to re-locate it to. I was assuming that the MDPE could be extended via the use of a straight connector, then the copper extended to run to the new stopcock.

Failing that, my other thought was, would it be ok to leave the current stopcock on, lay the mains pipe down flat (it does lie down fine), and then run new copper pipe to the required position and fit a new stopcock? My only concern was really if the MDPE connector somehow started to leak, or broke - or if the original stopcock started to leave - it'd mean I'd have to take the plinth off to access it (ok, not a big job - but then removing the units to access if it need be, would be).

Would that 2nd option be alright? Wasn't sure if it'd be advised against or not - I've not yet been able to speak to any plumber about it face to face yet.

Picture here for reference:

Thank you in advance!

 

[mountainman]

The easiest way for a non plumber to do it would be to chop out the floor so you can lay the MDPE and existing stopcock flat, pick up off the copper and fit a new stop in a place of your choosing.

 

[stevetheplumber]

how old is the house ?if thats a block n beam floor you can probaly dis the upstream side and push it down into the floor then come of the top of the valve with an elbow leaving the valve in the kick space
removing kitchen units for access isnt the trauma it used to be as most have the wind down legs asuming theres no sink in the unit

 

[Skid]

Built in '85 approx.

The current position of the s/c will be under the unit, so that's fine.

If I chopped the MDPE down, went with an MDPE->Copper elbow would that be alright? I could then join onto my existing pipework/run in a new s/c.

Quite happy to pay a plumber to do it 'properly', but as I've mentioned above - none seem to want to do it!

Edit: Ahh - just read your post properly. So leaving the existing s/c on the MDPE would be fine then?

 

[chris watkins]

I would go with MM but so long as you can turn off the incoming mains supply in the street you can work on it as you like it is standard 20mm Blue MDPE pipe, you can even buy push fit fitting for it or compression type which can be done up hand tight with an adapter to the 15mm copper.
Why not cut it just before the stop valve & put a 90 bend on laying as flat as it will go facing back towards the wall then run plastic or copper back & up the wall with a new stop valve & drain off.
Just had another look at photo & realized that the stop valve is a standard copper to copper if you undo the nut on the inlet side of the valve & pull off stop valve you will be able to connect back on with any 15mm compression fitting, as above an elbow could be used to turn you to the back wall.
Hope that helps, (note to self, look a bl**dy photos properly first)

 

[Skid]

Thanks chris. My only concern with myself doing that, would be if I caused it to leak.. I don't mind doing work above the s/c as I know at any point I can turn it off fast. So if I ran new one, I know that I've left that well alone I should be able to sleep at night heh.

I should get myself a key (not sure of the right terminology) to shut it off at street level I guess

 

[chris watkins]

Always good to know how & where to turn it of outside just in case (do you have a meter, if so, may not need key) but so long as you are careful & hold the valve so it does not move around you could leave it in place & come off with another above the unit plinths.
I would have a look & see if you can turn off outside & do it properly as not too much work. Have a word with next door & see if they have a key.

 

[AWheating]

find your outside tap (be careful as its not uncommon for needles and glass be put down the sleeve from the flap to the tap), if you can see the head then get some 2x1 timber and cut a v into the end of it and if the tap head turn's fairly easy you will be able to tun it with the wood. If the wood snapps then time to get a metal key.

i would get a elbow to go from mdpe to 22mm copper and move it to the new position under the plinth space about 2-3" off the floor and lagg the pipework with 19mm thich lagging to avoid condensation.

 

[Skid]

find your outside tap (be careful as its not uncommon for needles and glass be put down the sleeve from the flap to the tap), if you can see the head then get some 2x1 timber and cut a v into the end of it and if the tap head turn's fairly easy you will be able to tun it with the wood. If the wood snapps then time to get a metal key.

i would get a elbow to go from mdpe to 22mm copper and move it to the new position under the plinth space about 2-3" off the floor and lagg the pipework with 19mm thich lagging to avoid condensation.

Thanks for your reply. Out of interest why to 22, rather than 15? We do have high (well, very good should I say) water pressure here, if that makes a difference?

 

[AWheating]

22mm matches the cold main pipe size, its a stronger pipe, a 22mm stop tap will allow a better flow rate, better if any changes to plumbing is made in the future.

 

[Skid]

22mm matches the cold main pipe size, its a stronger pipe, a 22mm stop tap will allow a better flow rate, better if any changes to plumbing is made in the future.

Thank you for the explanation