Parquet

[helpsy]

Have a job to pipe up new rad and below the carpet and above the floorboards looks to be Parquet flooring. How do you remove/refit this neatly?

 

[brum]

Hi there if your ground floor can you get under boards from another room I don't think parquet will lift prob better speak to a joiner..brum

 

[Millsy 82]

Run! If it does come up it won't go back down neatly. I always refused to touch it and most of the companies I worked for were the same. It was the same with laminate floor customer has to have it removed or everything surface mounted.

 

[PhoenixServices]

Factor in the price of a professional wooden floor layer to remove and refit. Or tell them that is what it needs.

 

[Ermintrude]

Comes up easy..... Don't go back. As said above

 

[Centralheatking]

Its a night mare walk away --there are two sorts my home has
both and as a finished floor in a herringbone pattern is ace

1.very bad is the small engineered pine /oak sets are laid back down onto
a hot tar layer -my house
2. Worse is if they are glued down

Get them to get the floor lifted and then you go in - my best advice

centralheatking

 

[oz-plumber]

If they have carpet over the parquet, ask them if they did that for a reason.

As stated parquet comes up relatively easy, but replacing/repairing it is not easy.
( depending on type and pattern)

If they want the carpet to remain, just remove and fill with floor leveling compound.
Give them the pieces removed and tell them to hold on to them if they want them put back down again

 

[boaz]

Our bungalow was built in the 1950's, and has this flooring throughout. I had to remove some for reasons that are not relevant, but found that if I cut and laid a 1/2 inch thick piece of marine ply to the size of the blocks ( mine were 10.5"x 2.75" x 3" thick ) on top of the first block, then gave it a good smack or two with a lump hammer it broke the joint between the concrete floor and the hard bitumen that was laid originally to fix it. There is no tongue & groove - just straight sided blocks - I am not saying yours are the same, but the same principle may apply. Then screw a small screw at the end of the block - 1" in. Place the ply onto the next block to protect its face, and use a claw hammer to GENTLY lift/rock the block, and it will eventually lift, do the same for the other end, and if you had my luck, it will eventually lift out. From then on, you can remove as many as you require. To re-lay, I just scraped the concrete floor with and old bolster, cleaned up the base of the blocks with a chisel, use a piece of sandpaper to make some fine sawdust, and relaid blocks using "No Nails" - worked a treat. Remove lifting screws and fill holes with wood filler ( neutral ) mixed with the sawdust you had made. Depending on the colour of the wood, you can then either stain or brown shoe polish the filler, then a good coat of bees wax. Sorry this goes on a bit - must be my age !! - This may help or may not - good luck,
Kind Regards,
boaz

 

[zzzjim]

I've seen attempted fixes with ,a belt-sanding tool -- it's a fix " IN THEORY "
-- Never looked same again --