No Hot Water after Heating Switch-on

[G M]

Hi folks,

New to the forum and a total noob. Please be patient .

We're in the process of moving into a newly renovated house. One of the renovation jobs was the heating system. We've had an unvented Warmflow pressurised system installed along with new radiators. We've been without heat or any water for almost a month due to bit-part work from the plumber who has apparently been very busy.

We were assured weeks ago that the heating would be on. Thankfully we were able to get it back on last Thursday. The plumber left before the heating was back on and I got my electrician to connect the newly installed Nest 3rd Generation thermostat to the boiler.

The heating switches on OK and the thermostat will click on/off based on the selected temperature however, the hot water does not work.

If I select hot water boost from the Nest thermostat I can clearly hear the clicking noise that would lead me to believe it is working, but the Warmflow pressurised system doesn't appear to be heating anything.

Our plumber assured as when he left that this would all work no problem. What is going on here? Is it something simple? The hineysell 2 port valve just stays at auto. Is it supposed to move when hot water is engaged? The plumber did mention something about a valve in the attic. I wonder is this left closed maybe? He said the Nest thermostat should open any closed valves.

I've attached a few photos of the install. If I'm right, the valve to release air/steam is connected to a pipe which points to the ground. This means water would just empty on the floor. I thought this was supposed to release somewhere outside the building? Appreciate any help you can provide. Our plumber said he won't be back until next Wednesday to finish off one or two things. Could really do with this on ASAP as we were looking to fully move in any day now. Its been well over a month now. Thanks all!

 

[Gasmk1]

yes that pipe must be run outside of the building also should have Tundish fitted so you can see if the valves are passing due to fault conditions, the honeywell valve should move to open when there is a call for hot water you can tell if it is open by the handle on the end will have no restriction when no call the valve will close and you can feel the restriction. the other valve in the loft is probably the honeywell valve for the heating, which he will have opend and locked in manual to fill the system. if you still have no hot water you could try the immersion heater on th cylinder. looking at the photo this is the switch next to the isolator but get it checked as that should be fused also.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

That's an absolute mess, bet the plumber isn't G3 registered

Did he install the boiler ?

Any chance of a few pics of the boiler ??

Also your electrics are a mess and need sorting out

 

[G M]

That's an absolute mess, bet the plumber isn't G3 registered

Did he install the boiler ?

Any chance of a few pics of the boiler ??

Also your electrics are a mess and need sorting out

Hi,

No, the boiler is in the garage and it's about 10 years old. The burner also needs replaced. It is from the 90's. We're getting these replaced after Christmas along with the tank being moved. It is car too close to the house.

Wouldn't know of the plumber is G3 registered or not. Could the pipes not have been tidied away a lot better than they are?

Another real concern I have is that pipes were tracked through the concrete flooring and the water wasn't switched on until after these were filled in. There could be a leak. The problem here is that, because of the repeated delays with the plumber, the other tradesmen we had lined up to do the floors had to go ahead and fit them. Delays can caused all sorts of issues. When you're told a 'million percent' that the heating and water will be on by a certain date, you'd think that would be confident enough to organise the other jobs but typically, this wasn't completed in time.

What electrics need sorting out? Compared the the pipes I don't think it looks too bad. Thank you!

 

[G M]

yes that pipe must be run outside of the building also should have Tundish fitted so you can see if the valves are passing due to fault conditions, the honeywell valve should move to open when there is a call for hot water you can tell if it is open by the handle on the end will have no restriction when no call the valve will close and you can feel the restriction. the other valve in the loft is probably the honeywell valve for the heating, which he will have opend and locked in manual to fill the system. if you still have no hot water you could try the immersion heater on th cylinder. looking at the photo this is the switch next to the isolator but get it checked as that should be fused also.

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. The valve doesn't appear to do anything when the hot water is switched on. I can hear the clicking noise when selecting hot water but no activity whatsoever from the pressurised system or the Honeywell valve. If I move it manually to the right it sounds like water is passing, then the lever slowly moves back into the auto position.

Thanks!

 

[Gasmk1]

you can lock the valve open temporary if you look at the valve pull the lever fullly open and liftit slightly and let it nestle into the recess you will get hot water while the heating is calling

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Hi,

No, the boiler is in the garage and it's about 10 years old. The burner also needs replaced. It is from the 90's. We're getting these replaced after Christmas along with the tank being moved. It is car too close to the house.

Wouldn't know of the plumber is G3 registered or not. Could the pipes not have been tidied away a lot better than they are?

Another real concern I have is that pipes were tracked through the concrete flooring and the water wasn't switched on until after these were filled in. There could be a leak. The problem here is that, because of the repeated delays with the plumber, the other tradesmen we had lined up to do the floors had to go ahead and fit them. Delays can caused all sorts of issues. When you're told a 'million percent' that the heating and water will be on by a certain date, you'd think that would be confident enough to organise the other jobs but typically, this wasn't completed in time.

What electrics need sorting out? Compared the the pipes I don't think it looks too bad. Thank you!

You need to check he has his G3 else he can't / shouldn't of fitted your unvented water cylinder

We're the pipes insulated/ protected from the screed ?? Or was it just bare copper pipes in the floor

No grommets used clips fixings etc

Bet if you look at the left spur / switch you can poke your finger where the wire goes which is a big nonono

Also no protection where the cables enter the adaptable box

 

[G M]

you can lock the valve open temporary if you look at the valve pull the lever fullly open and liftit slightly and let it nestle into the recess you will get hot water while the heating is calling

Thanks a lot for that. I've moved it over and locked it in the manual position. The system is making all sorted of stomach gargling noises. Maybe that's a good thing!

I've been told that if the gauge on this orange vessel thingy is too low then we might have a leak. Looks a little on the low side to me. Is this normal? See attached. Thanks again for the help. Really appreciate it!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You might

Do you even know if your old boiler is capable of being sealed most old ones arnt?

 

[G M]

You might

Do you even know if your old boiler is capable of being sealed most old ones arnt?

Wouldn't know that but I've attached a picture of the boiler and burner. We're hopefully getting them replaced some time after Christmas. Thanks.