Leaking loo

[Peadingle]

I've got a problem with my loo leaking where the pipe from the cistern goes into the bowl. Having had a good look at it I can't see how I will get a good seal as the pipe from the cistern is at an angle to the hole into the bowl - as shown in the bottom diagram.

Can anybody recommend a solution please?

 

[JCplumb]

Get a new flush pipe and replace your bent one. get it longer than you need and cut it back. Looks like the original installer 'made do' with one that is too short.
Toolstation, scrrewfix, PTS all stock them

 

[Guest123]

You need to buy a new flush pipe (Screw fix sell them or any plumbers merchants) and a flush pipe cone. The flush pipe cone goes into the spigot on the toilet and the flush pipe is pushed into it to make a seal. The other end should have a nut and rubber cone and should go into the bottom of the cistern by 50mm.

A wee tip.... before fitting the flush cone into the toilet, put a ring of PlumbersMate around it and then push it home, wipe of the excess with a wetted finger and it will never leak.

 

[Peadingle]

Thanks chaps. I did wonder about that pipe. I may have to lengthen the waste too.

And thanks for the tip about the PlumbersMate.

 

[Peadingle]

I see Screwfix have two types of flush pipe, one with a curve, and the other with a tighter 90 degree bend. Presumably the latter would suit me as I wouldn't need to extend the waste pipe.

 

[JCplumb]

They're both the same price, doesn't really matter which you get as long as it's long enough

 

[Peadingle]

But it looks like the one with the tighter bend is for where the toilet is closer to the wall as it is in my case. And probably why the original installer cut the existing flush pipe so short leaving the angle on it.

 

[JCplumb]

Go with that one then, or get both and take the one you don't use back (tell them this when you're buying just incase)

 

[Peadingle]

Will do that. Thanks again.

 

[Guest123]

I see Screwfix have two types of flush pipe, one with a curve, and the other with a tighter 90 degree bend. Presumably the latter would suit me as I wouldn't need to extend the waste pipe.

Doesn't matter as both types can be cut to size. I use ones that have a swan neck for concealed cisterns which is mainly the reason I fit a low level set like the one you've got.

My preference (if space is not too tight) is for the traditional curved one compared to the tight bend.

 

[royston]

Make sure you get a rubber washer for the flush pipe where it goes into the back of the pan, because the nylon plaggy ones are useless !!

 

[Peadingle]

Make sure you get a rubber washer for the flush pipe where it goes into the back of the pan, because the nylon plaggy ones are useless !!

I did buy a rubber one this morning so I made the right choice. Thanks anyway.

 

[johnnyplumb]

Make sure you get a rubber washer for the flush pipe where it goes into the back of the pan, because the nylon plaggy ones are useless !!

nylon ones are fine, system3 told you how to do it a few posts back, just put some plumbers mate on the finns of the connector before you push it home.

 

[Peadingle]

Job done guys. But even with the tighter bend on the new flush pipe, I still could not get the pipe into the rubber (or plastic washer) in the pan. In the end I had to get the pipe fitted to the pan and then angle the top end of the flush pipe into the outlet of the cistern.

Is that the correct way to do the job, or did I simply have a ridiculously tight fit where the pipe joins the pan?

Even doing things that way, I could only get the pipe into the plastic washer (and yes I used Plumbers mate).

Last bit of advice please. The pan sits on vinyl flooring on top of a wooden floor. Do you guys think that I should seal between the bottom of the pan and the floor with silicon sealant?

Anyway, thanks again for all the good advice.

 

[glenno1]

It can be tight,i personally push the pipe through the cone then put thp pipe in the pan and cistern,then i push the cone home it gives you that bit more play

 

[Peadingle]

It can be tight,i personally push the pipe through the cone then put thp pipe in the pan and cistern,then i push the cone home it gives you that bit more play

I tried that but the cone wouldn't go into the pan.

 

[Guest123]

Yes, you should seal round the edges of the toilet where it sits on the floor as it will prevent spilled water (use your imagination!) being drawn under it and rotting the floor.

I normally insert the flush cone over the flush pipe, put a ring of Plumbers Mate round it and push it home.

 

[mountainman]

It can be very tight but that's the way to do it.

 

[Peadingle]

Yes, you should seal round the edges of the toilet where it sits on the floor as it will prevent spilled water (use your imagination!) being drawn under it and rotting the floor.

I normally insert the flush cone over the flush pipe, put a ring of Plumbers Mate round it and push it home.

Thanks, I will seal it up tomorrow. I guess that it also protects the brass screws.

 

[Guest123]

Thanks, I will seal it up tomorrow. I guess that it also protects the brass screws.

Yes where they screw into the timber. If the timber rots, then they lose their grip. I prefer 31/2 Stainless Steel screws, much stronger than brass.

 

[Peadingle]

Yes where they screw into the timber. If the timber rots, then they lose their grip. I prefer 31/2 Stainless Steel screws, much stronger than brass.

Yes, I think if you install these things you tend to treat them with a bit of respect. But with heavier people who don't think and just plonk themselves down, you probably can't have too much strength!

 

[Peadingle]

I thought it worth reporting that after a few days of using the loo, the flushing is as thorough/forceful with the new flush pipe as with the old, despite it having the tighter bend. Just in case anybody wonders if the performance is different when they need to use the tighter bend.