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Leaking boiler pipe joint, what should i use?

Discuss Leaking boiler pipe joint, what should i use? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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D

dacker

Hi

Can you please advise on the best product to use to seal a slight leaking pipe joint
within a boiler, i ve tried nipping it up, but it still weeps a little

Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Many thanks
 
If you can get at olive, then paste should sort it. Better that a little paste had been used on all compression joints. Boss White is good for sealing joints but sets hard on hot pipes, so I use a non hardening type - & it saves waste as it doesn't harden in the tub it comes in!
 
Is the washer knackered? Replace it

If its a nut and olive, ur best bet is to open it up and tape the olive with gas ptfe tape. That'll defo stop it. I don't trust all the boss white and sealant nonsense. Yellow tape for me
 
Is the washer knackered? Replace it

If its a nut and olive, ur best bet is to open it up and tape the olive with gas ptfe tape. That'll defo stop it. I don't trust all the boss white and sealant nonsense. Yellow tape for me

Agree with suggestion of changing the olive if it is damaged, or just poor type, but i personally wouldn't trust ptfe tape on compression. Paste will act as a fine
sealer that won't fail to seal every little part of the copper to olive to pipe joint. Tape tends to get cut
apart & I notice other guys work that used tape, with
the odd weep. The idea of using gas tape is a good
point, & I will use it where tape is an advantage.
Obviously I use ptfe on threads of male fittings, - brilliant stuff!
I have used ptfe on brass joints on very hot pipes to avoid the Boss White setting hard, but I now use non hardening paste.
 
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Agree with suggestion of changing the olive if it is damaged, or just poor type, but i personally wouldn't trust ptfe tape on compression. Paste will act as a fine sealer that won't fail to seal every little part of the copper to olive to pipe joint. Tape tends to get cut apart & I notice other guys work that used tape, with the odd weep. The idea of using gas tape is a good point, & I will use it where tape is an advantage.
I have used ptfe on brass joints on very hot pipes to avoid the Boss White setting hard, but I now use non hardening paste.

One wrap of gas tape on a olive seals it every time for me, that's the key though, if u use too much it'll end up weeping. I'll never use the sealant crap if I'm honest. I trust the gas tape implicitly. I don't trust water tape or sealant at all
 
One wrap of gas tape on a olive seals it every time for me, that's the key though, if u use too much it'll end up weeping. I'll never use the sealant crap if I'm honest. I trust the gas tape implicitly. I don't trust water tape or sealant at all

Got to use the correct amount of ordinary tape on non gas male fittings, & better a little paste as it not only helps seal but also lubricates the joint - so helps add tape in joint. This also applies to compression joint - paste lubricates, so joint is much easier to tighten, with no squeal.
 
I don't see the difference between ptfe and gas ptfe, except the gas one is thicker, surely more normal ptfe is just as good. By the way I prefair paste hands down!
 
must be a generation thing as nothing screams cowboy more to me than ptfe tape on compression fittings

Yes, usually a diy job if ptfe on any part of compression joint. I have used it for over the olives, - especially on very hot pipes & it has been perfect for years, but I notice soon joints can weep that others have done, so I assume the tape not really doing much. Gas tape maybe is better though.
I can't see why anyone is against paste, for copper pipe, as it is a 100% job for good, with no microscopic leaks, but is a
bit messy I admit. I tend to look joints on a job that is
done for 40 years rather than just thinking that joints
seem dry after just been done.
Ptfe good for over the olive, after it has been compressed, on the pipe that you connect to the plastic bend in Redring electric showers.
 
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Surely ptfe is for sealing threaded unions not compression nut and olives, try LSX sealant it's about £ 4.00 but never let's you down !
 
Dunno mate, I'm not trying to turn this on its head but I actually truthfully believe the same with paste on a comp joint.

It makes me think 'half a job' or 'last chance saloon repair' As I say, I never use paste, white tape or lsx or any of that stuff.

Yellow tape only if anything
 
Dunno mate, I'm not trying to turn this on its head but I actually truthfully believe the same with paste on a comp joint.

It makes me think 'half a job' or 'last chance saloon repair' As I say, I never use paste, white tape or lsx or any of that stuff.

Yellow tape only if anything
I think the opposite, - I think a compression joint is only " half " done if a light smear of paste is not applied to olive.
To me, it is common sense that something is needed as a fine sealant ( tape or paste) on compression joints, & paste has to be king as it is a liquid.
Belt & braces, but I know jobs that are done with paste for decades & no slight green on any joints ever. Admit the joints I see with tape that leak, are not gas taped, I bet, so I must use gas tape if I ever feel the need.
 
Everyone has there own way of doing things don't mean there right or wrong whatever way you do it if the end job is a water tight joint then it's done correct
 
Everyone has there own way of doing things don't mean there right or wrong whatever way you do it if the end job is a water tight joint then it's done correct
Agree, I know a lot guys never use anything on brass joints & most of the joints seem ok, provided the olives & fittings were decent quality.
I am not only thinking short term, but want no weeps ever. I have done sealed systems that stay in pressure for 5 or 6 years or more, which I think is rare, partly often because plumbers not using paste on joints.
 
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