Discuss is it possible to zone upstairs/downstairs in the Plumbing Zone area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
Was just asking get the plumber to check the original pipework if he didn't pipe it to see if it is possible to zone hope that helps and the best of luck with it
 
So stove and oil not twinned correctly and you have plastic heating pipes.

Why the hell is one of the pipes from the stove going down over before going up to the cylinder?

Recipe for disaster.

I would say your plumber or whoever is doing the work is absolutely clueless.

Or is your cylinder a thermal store?
 
So stove and oil not twinned correctly and you have plastic heating pipes.

Why the hell is one of the pipes from the stove going down over before going up to the cylinder?

Recipe for disaster.

I would say your plumber or whoever is doing the work is absolutely clueless.

Or is your cylinder a thermal store?


One pipe going up is for heat rising(flow) and the other is the return into the stove thatll be cooler. Its how stoves get plumbed in.

The house was originally done in plastic back in 2006. Never any problems with the heating. Now wanted an upgrade and a 30kw stove getting installed. You can connect these 2 together. All pipework to the stove is in copper. All pipework connected to burner is copper. all pipework connected to cylinder i copper. If i remember correctly, all teh copper is 2 m from burner and cylinder then connected to plastic. All allowed in building regs.
 
It's a gravity circuit by the sounds of it if the power goes it's suppose to circulate that was ok years when done and cylinder was right beside heat source but now a lot of cylinders are a good bit away should be fully pumped that's what I do had an apprentice tell me recently sure you don't need a pump or SAFETY VALVE on solid fuel anymore was taught it in college he said told him the clue was in the name SAFETY
 
SimonG a lot of houses now are doing in plastic I'd say 80% over here are doing that way you were obviously trained like me in the proper way COPPER I call the plastic Plumbers can't beat a good copper job
 
I do plumbing but wouldn't touch this myself. I have a plumber installing it but doing it in stages. The stove has been put in, a pipe coming from the top up into the ceiling towards the cylinder. The other pipe is coming out the bottom, into the floor, along the floor then up the wall towards the cylinder. Both pipes aren't connected to the system yet. Going to do this in stages in the coming months before winter.

If the cylinder is on an upper floor to the stove, then the both pipes of the stove should ideally be rising to the cylinder. Pointless doing it any other method if it is possible just to rise to cylinder, although I know how it can be done also correctly.
The return pipe is as critical as the flow pipe in regards to allowing full gravity flow.
Where does the flow pipe from stove go after it goes through the ceiling? Does it then travel below upper floors towards the cylinder and then rise?
There has to be heat leak and also thermostatic control of the pump to be done. Stove MIs must be followed
 
SimonG a lot of houses now are doing in plastic I'd say 80% over here are doing that way you were obviously trained like me in the proper way COPPER I call the plastic Plumbers can't beat a good copper job

Not if the stove is providing heating. No problem with plastic, but not with solid fuel and especially when the plastic, solid fuel and not a clue are combined.
 
If the cylinder is on an upper floor to the stove, then the both pipes of the stove should ideally be rising to the cylinder. Pointless doing it any other method if it is possible just to rise to cylinder, although I know how it can be done also correctly.
The return pipe is as critical as the flow pipe in regards to allowing full gravity flow.
Where does the flow pipe from stove go after it goes through the ceiling? Does it then travel below upper floors towards the cylinder and then rise?
There has to be heat leak and also thermostatic control of the pump to be done. Stove MIs must be followed



The cylinder is on the next floor. The top pipe straight up then takes a bend then rises along the 9inch joist then takes another bend to the cylinder. The bottom pipe goes along the floor about 2 m then rises up the wall unto the ceiling then rises along the joist then bends into the cylinder.

Is the cylinder not a heat leak? This is me just guessing. I can install a heat leak rad in the ensuite if needed.
 
If the cylinder is on an upper floor to the stove, then the both pipes of the stove should ideally be rising to the cylinder. Pointless doing it any other method if it is possible just to rise to cylinder, although I know how it can be done also correctly.
The return pipe is as critical as the flow pipe in regards to allowing full gravity flow.
Where does the flow pipe from stove go after it goes through the ceiling? Does it then travel below upper floors towards the cylinder and then rise?
There has to be heat leak and also thermostatic control of the pump to be done. Stove MIs must be followed



The cylinder is on the next floor. The top pipe straight up then takes a bend then rises along the 9inch joist then takes another bend to the cylinder. The bottom pipe goes along the floor about 2 m then rises up the wall unto the ceiling then rises along the joist then bends into the cylinder.

Is the cylinder not a heat leak? This is me just guessing. I can install a heat leak rad in the ensuite if needed.
 
The cylinder is on the next floor. The top pipe straight up then takes a bend then rises along the 9inch joist then takes another bend to the cylinder. The bottom pipe goes along the floor about 2 m then rises up the wall unto the ceiling then rises along the joist then bends into the cylinder.

Is the cylinder not a heat leak? This is me just guessing. I can install a heat leak rad in the ensuite if needed.

Why was the both pipes not installed in same way - straight up first?
Least path of resistance etc.
Some method of excess heat loss needed if pump or electric should fail.
Cylinder not going to take excess heat away much once it is heated, reason is it isn’t designed as a heat emitter - like a rad is. Also your cylinder probably is foam insulated. The stove MIs will state how much Watt is needed minimum for heat leak.
A 30kw stove is powerful
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to is it possible to zone upstairs/downstairs in the Plumbing Zone area at PlumbersForums.net

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top