Is a S flange out of the HWC really necessary ?

[realstokebloke]

I am fitting an shower pump (Salamander ESP 100, negative head) under the HWC in a gravity fed system.

I have run the pipework for the cold feed in, the cold out and the hot out, all in 22mm, as per spec.

But before i do the hot supply in from the cylinder, i wanted to check what's recommended by you guys if possible.

A couple of 'pro's' locally have told me i can use a compression tee off the horizontal out of the HWC and drop it down & across in 22mm to the pump for the hot feed.

Will this actually 'work' or am i better off getting an S flange fitted now?

Salamander obviously say an S or an Essex is vital.)

But...I can do the tee as above (I think) using a compression but think i'd need a plumber for the S flange and, at the end of the day, am trying to keep the costs down (& also learn as much as i can about plumbing jobs anyway out of interest).

So will i be asking for trouble with the DIY (tee out of the vertical exit pipe on the HWC) job or is the S flange route worth it for peace of mind / pump efficiency etc?

Appreciate your views / experiences - primarily as out of all the guys i've spoken to on this, none can tell me with any degree of confidence they did one last week & really know what they're doing - so i don't want some joker learning on me, possibly making a Horlics and getting paid for it.

(Appreciate too i'm obviously speaking to the wrong ones so far - but in the meantime any advice would be great, thanks.)

 

[realstokebloke]

no need for byelaw 30 on f and e tank.

if all rads get hot and no issues with cold spots put an inhibitor chemical in after you have checked for leaks. it is important to do this every 12 months on an open vent system like yours. the plumber you spoke to is a plonker!

Cheers again.

I will get an "ordinary" tank connector for the F&E waste then, thanks.

I will re-fill & bleed them all & get an inhibitor (is that "Sentinel" worth the extra btw?).

Yes he was.

Note the past tense & testament to that is that i'd rather learn & tackle this job myself than have him back (or a few others like him i've spoken to tbh).

 

[realstokebloke]

no need for byelaw 30 on f and e tank.

if all rads get hot and no issues with cold spots put an inhibitor chemical in after you have checked for leaks. it is important to do this every 12 months on an open vent system like yours. the plumber you spoke to is a plonker!

Oh btw, i can use the hot water without the heating systemn being re-filled can't I?

Thanks.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

you can with the immersion heater

 

[kay-jay]

You Will need to have the cwsc filled up too

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[kay-jay]

About the inhibitor ....If you have a local merchants they should have a cheaper alternative. I use calmag products at moment 4.95 plus vat. Sentinel and fernox are good too but should cost no more than a tenner plus vat.

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[Guest123]

Can't see past Fernox, the whole range especially Fernox 4 Leak Sealer is terrific.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

:iagree: