ideal super mexico - how to get heating only

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ideal super mexico - how to get heating only

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virgil

Hi - I have a super mexico floor standing boiler with a danfos 3060 timer. heating is pumped and the DHW is gravity. I'm replacing the hot water cylinder with an unvented one (the new one is in in it'snew location and plumbed up to just the shower for now) and for the next coupe of weeks the unvented will run just on the immersion heater whilst I wait for the new boiler. In the mean time I need to get rid of the old tank so I can rebuild that space for the new boiler...

what I need to do is run the boiler for heating only and remove all the old copper around the cylinder (won't be able to get rid of the pipework around the boiler as in the kitchen and a job for a few weeks time!

Can I just drain the old DHW circuit and leave the boiler and controls as is...or does the boiler need to be heating the DHW whenever the heating is called for, as the programmer seems to suggest?

IS there anyway I can get rid of the old DHW cylinder without just turning the old boiler off??

thanks,

virgil
 
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tamz said:
This is as basic as it gets. Nothing mysterious or hard about it
Your HW is gravity circulation and the heating is pumped. The HW side will no longer work even if you connect it which shouldn't be too hard to figure out why.

You have 2 options. Either convert the system to fully pumped which it doesn't seem like you want to do but which will need done anyway and i'm not going to explain how to, or cut the hw side off.
Phisically cutting the hw side of is as simple as 2 x 28mm stop ends on the tails that went to the old coil.
You need to leave the feed and expansion pipework in as they are. There is no other feed or expansion on the system.
Then find where it is wired together and stick the live wire from the pump in beside the live wire going to the boiler. That is it.
Rocket science for a G3 man.
Click to expand...

Thanks...more useful ;-)

reason I don't want to convert to fully pumped is that there'll be a new boiler on completely new pipework going in...old system (boiler, header tanks, pipework, DHW cylinder) will all go. New system boiler (so fully pumped and sealed) boiler will feed new cylinder, so want to get rid of old system bit by bit...old DHW cylinder first.

So you're saying that there's a single heat exchanger with two sets of pipework leading to and from it, boiler heats up one body of water that then goes to both 22mm pumped circuit and 28mm gravity circuit. cap the 28mm off and leave the rest as is...

Thanks...kind of what I was after at the begining :-D
 
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For your first 6 months i'd send you to the kitchen to put the kettle on and the van and slap you every time you handed me the wrong thing :smile:
 
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8847520055_a0d9bfb2b8_b.jpg

8847535677_2d1cb4673e_b.jpg

it's not blown up yet....
 
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virgil said:
Thanks...more useful ;-)

reason I don't want to convert to fully pumped is that there'll be a new boiler on completely new pipework going in...old system (boiler, header tanks, pipework, DHW cylinder) will all go. New system boiler (so fully pumped and sealed) boiler will feed new cylinder, so want to get rid of old system bit by bit...old DHW cylinder first.

So you're saying that there's a single heat exchanger with two sets of pipework leading to and from it, boiler heats up one body of water that then goes to both 22mm pumped circuit and 28mm gravity circuit. cap the 28mm off and leave the rest as is...

Thanks...kind of what I was after at the begining :-D
Click to expand...

Think about it. It is not hard.
gravityhw.jpg
 
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tamz said:
Think about it. It is not hard.
View attachment 13488
Click to expand...


Nope. Totally get it...(which is why I asked)

I was concerned that there were two completely separate circuits and by capping the old cylinder pipes off I'd be creating a sealed circuit still being heated by the boiler...not a good thing to do...even 'I' realise that :)

it IS as simple as can be...just wanted to make sure before I created a pipe bomb in my own house.

Thanks for the help. it IS much appreciated!
 
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You obviously like a bit steel wool :lol:

There shouldn't be an valve on the hw outlet and what is the bypass on the primaries for ?
 
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tamz said:
You obviously like a bit steel wool :lol:

There shouldn't be an valve on the hw outlet and what is the bypass on the primaries for ?
Click to expand...

Bypass is to trim the coil. Recommended by Telford.

Service valve is open and handle off...maybe a bit over the top but used to check for leaks before commissioning...
 
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tamz said:
The bypass is totally un necessary no matter what telford recommends.
Nice work for a G3 man btw :wink:
Click to expand...

I hope it is, but I thought better to have it there and not use it, then get a load of resonance (as has been seen on a couple of other Telford installs it seems) then need to chuck it in later...

...it's OK work for a DIY G3 computer bod ;-)
 
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The resonance is an expansion vessel thing.
Btw how do i find my phone on itunes........go on tell me its simple (it used to be) but i've been trying to figure it out for 10 minutes.
 
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tamz said:
The resonance is an expansion vessel thing.
Btw how do i find my phone on itunes........go on tell me its simple (it used to be) but i've been trying to figure it out for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...

Not sure...got an HTC and wife who has an iphone is in bed...usually down the left hand side, or off the home menu??
 
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Got it. I unplugged it and started again and it came up.
Trying to get my contacts off my sim on a barely readable screen after i dropped the bloody thing today. After i do this it is getting thrown over the hedge and the sim plugged into galaxy:smile:
As usual you always leave these things until you realise you should have done it ages ago before you really needed to!
 
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Neat job. Just need to notify Building Control before you fit it, unless you are registered with a competent person scheme.
 
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virgil said:
Thanks...kind of what I was after at the begining :-D
Click to expand...

You've had that answer at least 3 times from 3 different people already.

Think of the Hot water cylinder as a radiator, if you wanted to do away with the radiator you'd just cap the pipes to it.
 
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tamz said:
Got it. I unplugged it and started again and it came up.
Trying to get my contacts off my sim on a barely readable screen after i dropped the bloody thing today. After i do this it is getting thrown over the hedge and the sim plugged into galaxy:smile:
As usual you always leave these things until you realise you should have done it ages ago before you really needed to!
Click to expand...

Rather than do that, if its the screen thats cracked, just get a new screen...20mins later youll have it fitted and working again...if the lcd has gone too then maybe worthwhile scrapping it...
 
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snowhead said:
You've had that answer at least 3 times from 3 different people already.

Think of the Hot water cylinder as a radiator, if you wanted to do away with the radiator you'd just cap the pipes to it.
Click to expand...

Yep, and understand that now. Thank you for your reply. What i wasnt sure about at the begning was if the heat exchanger was split and the circuits (DHW and heating) were also split, so if i just capped the tails from the HW tank, i'd create a sealed pipe bomb still being heated by the boiler!!

As I now understand it;s just two circuits joined at the boielr sharing a vent and feed, I understand it IS as simplke as just removing that 'radiator'.

So thank you all for your feedback earlier. I'm now enlightened in the ways of my boiler :)
 
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Reg Man said:
That's great, sounds like you have a grip on things. Have you got a Gas Safe Registered business booked in for the boiler install?
Click to expand...

I have. he's a friend of a friend, so happy for me to do the leg work on the wet side and be his biatch for the day, whilst he does all the gas bits...
 
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