Threading Old 3/4" Steel Pipe Tight To A Wall.

[Catherine1]

Hi

I'm looking to have some pipework altered underneath the kitchen sink. There is some 3/4" steel pipe coming up from below the floor which I need shortening to allow for a deep Belfast sink and quite a thick timber worktop. Plus all the adjoining pipework is leaking and needs replacing. I've spoken to two plumbers and they have said that the pipe would ideally need to be cut down and threaded in order for it to be lowered and attached to any new pipework. However because it is tight to the wall they said this would be very tricky. One suggested breaking out the surrounding concrete floor to get to the underground joint, to put a whole new pipe in, which we have done but now the other one said this would be risky because if it all goes wrong the local water authorities would need to come out and carry out major works to put it right! But he also said it was an unusual job and was unsure how to go about it. Well if two experienced plumbers don't know then I'm pretty sure I don't... I'm hoping someone on here will know and be able to suggest an answer. Please see attached photos.

Many thanks in advance.

Catherine

 

[ShaunCorbs]

We weren't really taught plastic, we were just talked through it and told to do the assessments. Perhaps that's why I hate the stuff so much? (And fitting a towel rail today, trying to hide the poxy stuff under a fake pipe shroud that probably cost more than just using a bit of chromed copper in the first place grr.)

Same and never use the stuff unless dier emergency eg threading through joists (holes) but then I tend to use mlcp if I can

The trades loosing skill every 10 years and nothing new is being picked up / learnt that is good

 

[Ric2013]

You'll appreciate these basin runs then (microbore a bit naff, but it was the first time I ever used the stuff)

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You'll appreciate these basin runs then (microbore a bit naff, but it was the first time I ever used the stuff)

View attachment 30823

Better than plastic and looks great

 

[Ric2013]

Well, there was no plastic in that house and I didn't want to be the one to add it. Used a bit in the loft, but all accessible and visible.

 

[Catherine1]

Thanks all for your input, sorry for late response. The Philmac transition couplings mentioned are plastic. Would that be OK to use? I tried twice contacting the company who makes the primofit ones for more info but they never got back to me.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yes would be fine

 

[Catherine1]

Thanks Shaun. Seemed plastic was getting a bit of a bad press that was all...

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Thanks Shaun. Seemed plastic was getting a bit of a bad press that was all...

It's ok depends what you can get hold of

but I would take the piece out the coupling and put a male iron in but that's me

 

[Michael1960]

Thanks all for your input, sorry for late response. The Philmac transition couplings mentioned are plastic. Would that be OK to use? I tried twice contacting the company who makes the primofit ones for more info but they never got back to me.

The Philmac couplings are excellent, they look bulky and are obviously used out of sight. You can come off of them in any material you just need the correct adaptor. Any decent plumbers merchants will advise you. I have cut out a lot of LCS in old council houses where its on the hot and cold water supply! Simply fit a Philmac and then your away in nice new copper.

 

[Catherine1]

Thanks both!

 

[Michael1960]

Thanks both!

Philmac MDPE Universal Transition Coupling | Philmac MDPE Universal Transition Coupler 15-21mm X 20mm | City Irrigation Ltd

 

[moonlight]

Cut a section of iron pipe off, drop in small hose through open pipe. Siphon water out. Hold bottom elbow, heat pipework and unscrew. Fit new male iron to copper fitting sorted. Just make sure you protect the copper in the ground with insulation.

 

[Ric2013]

Philmac should be okay for cold water, not suitable for hot.