Servicing your own vans

[mutley racers]

hey chaps, do any of you actually service your own vans? AS in change the oil filter and oil. And, also, if you do and do other stuff like changing disc brakes and pads, how easy is it? I have my mot next month and last year i was recommended to replace pads and discs and so i wan't to do this myself to save a bit of cash.

Any advice would be greatful

Cheers

 

[SimonG]

I do an oil and filter change in between regular services. For the cost to me (time and materials) I find it worth it. I change my own brake pads (throw back to being 17 and skint) but anything else it goes to the garage. Unless I fancy a challenge and have the time, but it's just like plumbing. I could have the van off the road for three days doing something a garage could do in half a day.

 

[mutley racers]

Awesome, I think this weekend am going to have a go at changing my own discs and pads. Lots of videos on youtube on how to do it. Know any decent place to buy parts? Euro car parts looks pretty good?

 

[PlumbBobBob]

i usually get my parts from motorists discount centre (mdc)

 

[petercj]

If the pistons are the type that screw back, recommend you get a rewind tool - they look like this:-

Laser 1314 Brake Caliper Piston Re-wind Tool Set: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike


As long as you get one that will fit your pistons, the cheap ones are as good as any - in the region of £10 - £15 pounds.

Sometimes the pistons can be turned with cranked long-nosed pliers, but chances are it will take more than that.

If the pistons are the lever back type, then a big screwdriver, or a cranked lever will usually do the job.

Don't forget to keep an eye on the brake master cylinder, as the fluid is going to rise when the pistons go back into the calipers.

Cheap disc pads tend to be an unknown quantity, worst case scenario is that they last half as long as they should do, or screech (which can usually be overcome by using brake grease on the back of the pad if that happens) - if you look around you can probably find one of the big names at a heavily discounted price. Halfords tend to be middle of the road re price and quality.

If you are going to do your own repairs, I really recommend getting a manual - the Haynes manuals are cheap and cheerful, and although some mechanics will sneer at them, they are good value for the money.

If you intend using the jack that came with the van, make sure you have something underneath to catch it should it fall - your spare wheel with the wheel you take off on top, pushed under a solid part of the chassis, will usually be enough to stop getting crushed should the jacking point give out or the jack slip.

 

[mutley racers]

cheers fellers. Some really good info. All taken into account

 

[SimonG]

I get my parts from nearest unipart place. Aye watch out for the twisting cylinders. I have a spare bottle jack that I use to compress cylinders if they wont budge.

 

[mike-c]

Try to invest in a Haynes manual for your vehicle then you can easily look at it while you are doing the work.

 

[jtsplumbing]

What van do you have ? I have a FWD Transit and the discs are a real B to change pads easey , but dont get cheep brake parts more trouble than they are worth, better of ringing around for a price to do brakes, dont put your life at risk for the sake of a few pounds.

 

[gasmanrob]

get my parts from sc motor factors and agahbridge dont know if they are only local to me or not.

discs and pads can be as difficult as they are easy. depend how easy they come of i do mine every year so they come off with ease but if they havent been done in a while they can be a right pig to remove but then nothing a lump hammer wont solve.

Some are easier then others my traffic and vivaro's are easy and take 20-30minutes a side then an hour to do the oil and filter change. then i spend another hour doing air filters and cleaning the exhaust gas recycling valve.

would defo get a haynes for it as some makes and models use abnormal securing screws/bolts and need a certain tool to remove it so the manual should tell you what you need.
use copper grease on the back of the pads and shim only not on the pad itself or you will only stop once youve hit something.

As for oil again the haynes will tell you how many pints you need to put in. you will also need a sump key to drain the old out.[DLMURL="http://www.bettamotoring.co.uk/laser-3175-sump-drain-plug-key-set-14-piece.html"]Laser 3175 Sump Drain Plug Key Set 14 Piece[/DLMURL]
i always warm the engine for a minute or so to warm and thin the oil then catch it in a oil tray. LIGHT WEIGHT OIL DRAIN PAN 8LTR: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike.
then of with the old oil filter and in with the new Halfords | Halfords Chain Oil Filter Wrench 100mm
when putting the new one on dip your finger into a bit of oil then rub round the rubber o ring of the filter before you screw it on. oh and even though you've drained it down there will still be oil in the filter so best not to be directly under it when you unwind it.

Only use the best products after all its your work horse if its not working then you wont be either!!. i also use oil 1 grade higher then suggested but if your unsure do as the manual tells thee!

sorry if im teaching you to suck eggs but always like to try and be helpful if i can

 

[ManchesterGas]

I do all my own van work but I'm good with cars/bikes/vans.

Put a Saxo VTS engine in my old Berlingo, that went like the proverbial!

Wind back pistons are only ever on the rear of a vehicle if it incorporates the handbrake. I tend to use some grips and a g clamp for those.

Transits are a pain because you need to take the bearings out to do them so might as well renew them, to be fair, prob better in a garage for them with presses etc.

 

[AWheating]

i always get my van serviced at a local garage, its hard to find a local independant garage you can trust but i do trust the garage i use. Full service and mot for around £135 to £165 interim service for around £60 with correct oil. They have even fixed my heater for free after the VW garage said there was not a fault, they spotted it and corrected it for free while it was being serviced.

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

cheers fellers. Some really good info. All taken into account

use a proper jack and axle stands dont compromise on your safety,if you were closer you could borrow my wind back tool use some copper grease on the back of the pads this will stop the brakes squealing,but dont get it on the disc or friction side of the pad

 

[stevetheplumber]

hardest thing if you dont normally do this work is the tools youll need ,some brakes and discs will need large allan keys or splined keys but if you intend doing stuff your self its worth getting them as you need them
think a lot of plumbers do there own stuff like this

 

[quality]

hardest thing if you dont normally do this work is the tools youll need ,some brakes and discs will need large allan keys or splined keys but if you intend doing stuff your self its worth getting them as you need them
think a lot of plumbers do there own stuff like this

I will agree and support that if you have not already got the tools then it is probably cheaper to go to a local bloke.

 

[Mike Jackson]

use a proper jack and axle stands dont compromise on your safety,if you were closer you could borrow my wind back tool use some copper grease on the back of the pads this will stop the brakes squealing,but dont get it on the disc or friction side of the pad

There was a chap killed a couple of years back in St' Leonards when he was working underneath it on a jack. It fell off the jack and crushed him. Was a young chap with a young family trying to save a bit of money.

 

[dontknowitall]

My goodness!!

The stick we give people for doing diy plumbing, safety and all that ...

Now: what were those YouTube videos again?

 

[Phil]

In the past I've done all sorts to my cars, head gasket, brakes, full respray, torsion bars etc....

Diy on your own car can be dangerous as I found out when I removed the front spring without clamps and nearly took my 8a57ard head off.

 

[kirkgas]

Awesome, I think this weekend am going to have a go at changing my own discs and pads. Lots of videos on youtube on how to do it. Know any decent place to buy parts? Euro car parts looks pretty good?

whats your opinion on DIY gas work re it being a risk to the general public/neighbours of the job as by definition DIY isnt an expert, so you want to watch a video on you tube then change a safety critical part on a vehicle that you intend to drive around town, as we say on here leave it to the expert, if you crach and they check the brakes and find the critical safety pin is in backwards and that caused the slippage that lead to the crash you could go to jail (or the mortuary)

 

[mutley racers]

Thanks for all the replies guys. I had a go this weekend and got stuck on the first dic! The disc retaining screw was rusted on so tight that i end up shaving the shape of the star into a circle. So, am thinking they're all like this and have ordered some of these screws and then i shall proceed to drill them out. Hopefully this weekend!! If the wife hasn't planned anything

 

[petercj]

Not sure which screws you mean - but some sharp taps on a sturdy Phillips (+) screwdriver will sometimes help to release such screws. Better still is a Phillips bit in a socket driver - give it several sharp taps in succession.

If it's the screws in the rear drums, this will often do the trick. A pair of mole grips on the shaft of the driver often helps as well.

 

[mutley racers]

cheers for the info

 

[ManchesterGas]

I always use an impact screwdriver for those and always the correct PH/PZ bit for the screw. I have had to cut a few discs off before, they have been so far past needing replacement though

 

[mutley racers]

well I serviced my own van last week and it went for its MOT today and it failed!! I changed front and back disk brakes and pads and oil. And it fails on worn ball joints. I just knew it!! It always happens. You save yourself a bit of money on one thing and something else just pops up to take that sense of achievement away. Gutted!

Am still chuffed I did the disk and pads though. It is still a saving really. isn't it??????????????/

 

[petercj]

As it passed on the brakes, your sense of achievement should still stand.

Are you going to do the ball joints yourself?

 

[850Rick]

Im a car mechanic by trade i will be doing all my own work on my car lol

 

[R1CKY]

Always work on my own cars and vans. Brakes are easy to change, you shouldn't need a rewind tool if you're doing front brakes. The piston should just push back into the caliper. Check the level on the brake fluid reservoir as you do this, it will rise, if the reservoir has been topped up when the pads were low, it may overflow.

Remove as much debris from the pad carriers as possible with a small wire brush, and apply a smear of copper grease to the back of the pads and where the pads come in to contact with the carrier.

Discs usually come with an oily coating, this needs to be removed with brake cleaner and a cloth. After assembly, pump the brake pedal several times before setting off until firm and remember new brakes need bedding in, so take it easy and brake early.

I can highly recommend Pagid brake parts from eurocarparts.com.

Oops, hadn't realised you'd already done it, that'll teach me for not reading the whole thread!

 

[stratobuddy]

Are you VSR (van safe registered)?

 

[R1CKY]

Are you VSR (van safe registered)?

No, but I used to be Corgi

www.vectis.co.uk/AuctionImages/80/1660_l.jpg

 

[stratobuddy]

Here is the photo from the above link - - -