Discuss Motorised Valve setting manually in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

A quick test to check your pump is working is, get a flat head screwdriver, hold a towel under the pump body and when the pump is in operation, remove the bleed screw (there will be water), you will see (or should see) the impeller spinning, then without using too much force, stick the screwdriver head into the bleed hole and try stop the impeller spinning, a good healthy pump motor will spit the screwdriver back out, an aged knackered pump will stop spinning.
Thanks
 
If the head was a removable type then you could manually move the paddle to CH and HW , but if your not sure then best to get it looked at and fix as kettling n knocking noises isn't good for the system, sometimes knocking is a different sound and issue compared to kettling but with your system it has to be the 3 porter as you had hot water so pump ok ,
Thanks
 
Not always the case. Just because he's got hot water, doesn't mean his pump is ok. I've never had kettling or banging on a system due to the 3 port been at fault. It's possible his pump is on its last legs but just has enough life to circulate water round his cylinder coil, but once he switches to heating, the resistance is too great and the pump can't distribute the heat quick enough before boiler begins to kettle and shut down.
Thanks
 
Put the 3 port into the mid-position using the little lever on the side of the silver head, it can be lifted up into a groove which will hold it there. Do this just after turning on both the heating & hot water on the programer & make sure both stats are up high.
Check the pipe work on each side of the valve to see if the heating "A" port is getting hot.
This should tell you if it is the pump or valve.
Thanks
 
Put the 3 port into the mid-position using the little lever on the side of the silver head, it can be lifted up into a groove which will hold it there. Do this just after turning on both the heating & hot water on the programer & make sure both stats are up high.
Check the pipe work on each side of the valve to see if the heating "A" port is getting hot.
This should tell you if it is the pump or valve.
Hi I just tried this the lever is very slack no resistance at all …. I put the boiler back on and after only a few minutes I could hear the noise starting again so I turned it back off as I mentioned in original post its a very old system im thinking its had its day ...I'm reluctant to start fault finding by changing parts as its going to be all completely changed soonish im getting hot water from the immersion when we need it and ive got some electric fires to see us through...I may post another question about the immersion
 
If it’s slack either the motor has pinged or its getting constant power
thanks ……
If it’s slack either the motor has pinged or its getting constant power
hi …… im thinking there,s a few issues wrong as I mentioned its very old and im changing it soonish ie re siting the boiler , unvented system etc … im getting hot water from the immersion do you think its a problem using that for a month or so ? until I upgrade
 
Hi I just tried this the lever is very slack no resistance at all
So it's in Central Heating mode it seems. I.e. 'permanently powered'.

Turn the system off at the isolator. Turn your mains switch at your fusebox off if in doubt. The 3PV should now revert to Hot Water mode and you should feel firm spring pressure against the lever.

If not, then it isn't working. On most valves, you can take the actuator head off without draining and put the spindle into the half way between the two extremes position to allow both CH and HW at the same time, but you'll lose temperature control of the system. Still, if you want to run it under manual control, this might be the very thing.
 

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