Motorised Valve setting manually

[Stants]

Hi I was hoping my old Central heating would go the distance as I'm in the process of a loft conversion and I am going to upgrade .. alas its packed up , the boiler still fires up but its on for a while then goes off ( this was xmas day by the way ) when I last had it going I had hot water but no heat ( and the boiler was making knocking noises when it got to temp … its been suggested to me that this is called kettling ?? ) I thought at the time it might be the motorised valve as its ancient …… it was mentioned to me that you can set the valve manually so its open all the time with Heating and hot water ( which is not a problem ) can you do this without draining down the system ..I just need it to work for another month or so before I renew the whole lot....its a Honeywell 3 port motorised valve

 

[heliotrope]

I would suggest that you check out the heating pump.
I don't think the three port is playing up.
The honey well three port cannot be set manually open
to run continuously.

 

[Stants]

I would suggest that you check out the heating pump.
I don't think the three port is playing up.
The honey well three port cannot be set manually open
to run continuously.

Hi im fairly sure the pump is still ok as you can hear it running I turned it up to its highest setting and you could hear the change in speed

 

[Riley]

Just because you hear it it doesn’t mean the impeller is turning.

 

[Aire]

Hi im fairly sure the pump is still ok as you can hear it running I turned it up to its highest setting and you could hear the change in speed

A quick test to check your pump is working is, get a flat head screwdriver, hold a towel under the pump body and when the pump is in operation, remove the bleed screw (there will be water), you will see (or should see) the impeller spinning, then without using too much force, stick the screwdriver head into the bleed hole and try stop the impeller spinning, a good healthy pump motor will spit the screwdriver back out, an aged knackered pump will stop spinning.

 

[kris]

If the head was a removable type then you could manually move the paddle to CH and HW , but if your not sure then best to get it looked at and fix as kettling n knocking noises isn't good for the system, sometimes knocking is a different sound and issue compared to kettling but with your system it has to be the 3 porter as you had hot water so pump ok ,

 

[Aire]

If the head was a removable type then you could manually move the paddle to CH and HW , but if your not sure then best to get it looked at and fix as kettling n knocking noises isn't good for the system, sometimes knocking is a different sound and issue compared to kettling but with your system it has to be the 3 porter as you had hot water so pump ok ,

Not always the case. Just because he's got hot water, doesn't mean his pump is ok. I've never had kettling or banging on a system due to the 3 port been at fault. It's possible his pump is on its last legs but just has enough life to circulate water round his cylinder coil, but once he switches to heating, the resistance is too great and the pump can't distribute the heat quick enough before boiler begins to kettle and shut down.

 

[chris watkins]

Put the 3 port into the mid-position using the little lever on the side of the silver head, it can be lifted up into a groove which will hold it there. Do this just after turning on both the heating & hot water on the programer & make sure both stats are up high.
Check the pipe work on each side of the valve to see if the heating "A" port is getting hot.
This should tell you if it is the pump or valve.

 

[Stants]

I would suggest that you check out the heating pump.
I don't think the three port is playing up.
The honey well three port cannot be set manually open
to run continuously.

Thanks

 

[Stants]

Just because you hear it it doesn’t mean the impeller is turning.

Thanks