Discuss kinked, crimped and coiled 8mm pipework in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
Messages
288
Hi,

I'm after a little advice.

I am working my way through a renovation of my central heating system prior to new carpets being fitted in the next few months and an unvented cylinder conversion from my current vented being fitted in the next year or so - this will be moved from the 1st floor airing cupboard to the ground floor garage. I could ideally do with getting the new system in before new carpets but I have a wedding to pay for in July which is scuppering my plans :) so right now the priority is to do as much as possible to convert fully to 15mm and replace T&G floorboards where possible that have been hacked by previous fitters (also to lower pipes to prevent banging on the boards when stood on) . This should mean minimal carpet removal when the new system eventually gets fitted.

As I start prep work, I've been lifting a few floor boards to get an understanding of the layout and what I'm faced with. My current set up includes 13 rads (approx 35-40k BTU, yet to calculate accurately), of which 7 upstairs which are the ones getting sorted first - 4 of which have 8mm pipework which I'm not comfortable with given it has been installed for at least 2 decades and has taken a lot to get it running clean again, obviously nothing added to prevent corrosion (average run is 8 meters to each rad from the landing). My plan is to run 15mm push fit from the 22mm feed/return running along the landing, fitting copper risers to new TRV's. My plumber also wanted me to run some pipe to the en suite mains shower for a direct hot water feed from where the unvented will be situated.

The system seems to have a main feed from the kitchen boiler (downstairs), going upstairs to the middle of the house where the cylinder lives, this then splices above the pump (next to the cylinder) into the electric valve which feeds the rads and hot water coil alternately. From what i can see so far i have 2x 22mm pipes for the rads, one which is the colder of the two on my working system, I assume is the return, this runs along the landing returning to the boiler with a T in the middle feeding downstairs, along the way it has the returns from the various rads - the other 22mm pipe (feed) appears to run halfway along the landing and downstairs again feeding into the rads along the way.

My question at this point is a strange one - when lifting one of the boards near the cylinder i noticed several wide coils of 8mm copper pipework from both of these feeds to 2 of my upstairs rads - not only are they coiled at least twice under the floor, they also appear to have been almost squashed fully by pliers in several places, presumably to reduce flow - why would this have been done? i presume to reduce flow perhaps, but isn't that what the lockshield's are for?

I don't really want to remove this and replace with the 15mm until i know why it's been done.Can anyone help?

Thanks

Tim
 
Unless it's mid run on the 8mm then there isn't one, I'll just fit two lockshields on a rad . I'm sure the pre prepped unvented will have one, won't it?

One other question... Fitting a new 22mm pipe, hole in the beam or notches in the top? Which is most viable and professional?
 
Unless it's mid run on the 8mm then there isn't one, I'll just fit two lockshields on a rad . I'm sure the pre prepped unvented will have one, won't it?

One other question... Fitting a new 22mm pipe, hole in the beam or notches in the top? Which is most viable and professional?

if you hole will need to be drill from the center of the joist (unless your plastic or take a brick out you wont do it in copper)

and re the unvented you will need a g3 plumber to install that
 
No probs, I'm thinking for the hot water pipe that my plumber asked me to install from the new site to the airing cupboard. I'm going to run the 22mm a bit further than he suggested and route some to the bath too, that way less wasted hot water than going through the old pipes - I'll be using barrier so holes may be best.

He is accredited to fit the unvented :)
 
Is it worth running 22mm to the bath hot tap from an unvented? Or is this overkill?

will give you better flow and i would if you could
 
It's going to get a 22mm riser, then 6 -7 metres to the airing cupboard in 15mm. It passes the bathroom along the way so seemed a good idea. Just wasn't sure on flow rates.... Cheers Shaun
 
Aren`t bath taps 22mm rather than 15mm?

they are but half the time people just use a 15mm - 3/4 flex / tap connector
 
Talking pipe size not BSP tap size, but sure you knew that.

:D hoping you would spend a bit of time thinking wtf, cant pull the wool over your eyes ;)
 
Out of pure curiosity. What would it cost me in the region of for an upstairs repipe and the extra 7-8 metres of water section to be fitted in copper by a plumber. I know there must be many variables, just wondering for a medium sized 4 bed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to kinked, crimped and coiled 8mm pipework in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock