Help identifying what these pipes are for

[freddycd15]

Hello all,

I was clearing out my first floor bedroom built-in cabinet and saw these pipework in the image. I'm not 100% sure what they are for. The only thing I can think of it for the central heating system as the pipes seem to go quite high (quite a but higher than radiators in my house). The tag around the valve says isolation valve which isn't too helpful. There is also a power socket which I also have no idea what it does, it was off and has been off for years (maybe never been switched on).

The reason I ask is because I was going to put some new shelves in here and I would like to simplify the pipes here if possible. I was hoping to just have the pipes do a u-turn around the socket in the photo so I can have the shelves right up against the back wall. I would add a joining where you can bleed water out at the top as in the photo currently.

However, something tells me there is a reason why the pipes are done this way? Your help would be much appreciated.

Many thanks.

 

[Gasmk1]

used to be a cylinder in there so to keeps an airing cupboard they ran the pipes this way to warm it up one is the flow and the other the return (from hot water cylinder)

 

[freddycd15]

Thanks Gasmk1. That's news to me as the cupboard as there has always been a boiler downstairs. So given I don't need a cylinder here, I'm assuming these pipes are redundant?

 

[Scott_D]

As above.
A heating coil - radiator made of pipe
Does it heat up?

 

[freddycd15]

Thanks scott. Yes it does heat up, so I'd imagine it's connected to the same network as the radiators. I thought about just merging the two pipes near the bottom and change the isolation valve to a smaller one.

 

[steadyon]

1. You will have to drain down the heating system to bridge across the pipes at the bottom.
2. If you have a hot water cylinder the pipework may be connected to the hot water primary rather than to the central heating circuit. This will not be the case if you have a combi boiler, but could be if you have an unvented hot water cylinder. Check if it gets warm when the central heating OR hot water are on.
3. You could remove the isolation valve altogether as it serves no purpose. I'd guess it was originally used to regulate the flow through the "radiator" of pipe.
4. I expect the electrical point is a switched cable outlet for an immersion heater. In theory it should be wired directly back to the consumer unit with its own dedicated cable. However, it may have been wrongly connected to a ring main. If the latter, it could be replaced with a socket outlet if useful. In either case it could just be left as is.

 

[freddycd15]

Thank you steadydon for the detailed reply.

Can I ask if a Flexible Compression Tap Connector can join the two pipes together? I'm more concerned about whether flexible connectors are okay to use with hot water pipes?

The pipes are warm when the heating is on and I have a gas combi boiler. I am going to put some lights in the cabinet so the electricity supply is a bonus.

 

[steadyon]

1. If you have a combi boiler and no hot water cylinder then those pipes will be part of your central heating system.
2. Don't use a flexible connector. They are generally not rated for continuous central heating temperatures.
3. If its a wooden floor and easily raised, cut and bridge below floor. Otherwise bridge above.
4. Get two 90 degree compression elbows for 15 mm pipe. Screwfix 91568
5. Drain down the heating system.
6. Clean the paint off both pipes for about 50 mm about 50 mm off the floor.
7. Clean the paint off another length of the pipe which you are going to use for the bridge.
8. Cut the vertical pipes at the upper level of the cleaned part. Pipe slice is best. If using a hacksaw, deburr the cut ends inside and out with a file.
9. Loose fit the elbows to each end of vertical pipe. Measure the length of pipe required for the bridge. If you take the nuts off the elbows, point them towards each other, measure their separation and add 35 mm you will be about right.
10. Cut the required length out of the pipe cleaned at 7. above.
11. Making sure all olives are in place and pipes cleaned tighten nuts on elbows to firm finger tight then 1/2 turn more with a spanner. You shouldn't need any sealant with new olives, but a dab of Jetlube V2 on all mating faces won't hurt. Don't put PTFE tape on the threads, it won't do anything.
12. Refill the system, checking for leaks. If there is a slight weep from either elbow, tighten the nut from which it is leaking a little bit more. Don't overdo the tightening or you'll crush the pipe and make it worse.
13. When you have refilled and are happy there are no leaks, add inhibitor to the system. Something like Sentinel X100
14. If you have the equipment and skills you could use soldered elbows.
15. You could also use push fit elbows instead of the compression ones. E.g. two off Screwfix 97179.

 

[freddycd15]

Amazing, thank you for the guidance and tips! I hope you post an update once it's all been done.

 

[Chuck]

used to be a cylinder in there so to keeps an airing cupboard they ran the pipes this way to warm it up one is the flow and the other the return (from hot water cylinder)

That's done so the cupboard could continue to be used as a heated airing cupboard. I'd consider just leaving them and, if you don't want the cupboard heated, shut the gate valve near the floor. One day someone may want to reinstate it as an airing cupboard.