Search the forum,

Diagnosing banging motor valve

Post new thread

Discuss Diagnosing banging motor valve in the Oil and Solid Fuel Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

R

red_rover

Messages
13
Hi,
I have a three-zone 2016 house with gas heating. When the downstairs heating switches off, it bangs extremely loudly. I have tried adding clips and it only helps to a point, I would have to take down plasterboard to get at the noisest part. The valve appears to be the correct direction. I have a bypass, which seems to be working. I think the bypass pipe is about 15mm. I don't have any TRVs anywhere in the house. Do you think I might need a new valve or perhaps something like an automatic by pass? Thanks a lot.
valve.png
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
If it’s previously worked fine, then something has failed, ergo you shouldn’t need to change piping etc.

Pressure looks a little low, had any issues with losing pressure, needing to top up more regularly?

Expansion vessel possibly lost charge/faulty?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Open the red wheel head 1/2 a turn the vertical one
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
red_rover said:
Interesting. Is there a theoretical reason why an automatic bypass is needed and that gate valve is not enough?
Click to expand...
The ABV method is more energy-efficient than the always-open gate valve. This is because the gate valve (permanent) bypass raises the return temperature, which adversely affects heat recovery by condensing boilers.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Chuck said:
The ABV method is more energy-efficient than the always-open gate valve. This is because the gate valve (permanent) bypass raises the return temperature, which adversely affects heat recovery by condensing boilers.
Click to expand...
Hi, I figured out that there is a radiator in the upstairs zone (none noisy zone) with no TRV, which i guess acts as a by pass. I guess I will end up getting an ABV anyway, and just have two.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Chuck said:
The ABV method is more energy-efficient than the always-open gate valve. This is because the gate valve (permanent) bypass raises the return temperature, which adversely affects heat recovery by condensing boilers.
Click to expand...
It seems the bypass pipe with the current gate valve is just 15mm so I called the boiler company (Ideal) to ask is this ok or should it be 22mm. Id replace it to 22mm if needed when. But ideal refuse to advise as I am not gas registered.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote

Reply to Diagnosing banging motor valve in the Oil and Solid Fuel Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

P
Repeated Airlock in Bathroom
Hi, Can anyone advise as to why the cold water to my bathroom keeps airlocking? This originally happened about 12 months ago and has happened 3-4 times since. It’s an upstairs bathroom, fed from a tank in the attic. The tank is about 8 Meters away and feeds a bath, sink and toilet. The tank...
Replies
9
Views
311
Chuck
C
D
Covering shallow sewer pipe under concrete Patio
Hello all, I’m replacing a concrete paving slab patio in the back yard. The original patio used 50mm deep concrete slabs on hardcore & sand. I’m planning to pour a 100mm deep concrete patio on 100mm hardcore. In order to achieve the same final height to line up with the rest of the patio, I...
Replies
6
Views
218
DIwhYdidIstartThis
D
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock