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Discuss Diagnosing banging motor valve in the Oil and Solid Fuel Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi,
I have a three-zone 2016 house with gas heating. When the downstairs heating switches off, it bangs extremely loudly. I have tried adding clips and it only helps to a point, I would have to take down plasterboard to get at the noisest part. The valve appears to be the correct direction. I have a bypass, which seems to be working. I think the bypass pipe is about 15mm. I don't have any TRVs anywhere in the house. Do you think I might need a new valve or perhaps something like an automatic by pass? Thanks a lot.
valve.png
 
If it’s previously worked fine, then something has failed, ergo you shouldn’t need to change piping etc.

Pressure looks a little low, had any issues with losing pressure, needing to top up more regularly?

Expansion vessel possibly lost charge/faulty?
 
Open the red wheel head 1/2 a turn the vertical one
 
I had a similar issue recently after customer had new boiler with bigger pump fitted , I added an auto bypass before zone valve and haven't heard anything back - so guess it's ok
 
Interesting. Is there a theoretical reason why an automatic bypass is needed and that gate valve is not enough?
The ABV method is more energy-efficient than the always-open gate valve. This is because the gate valve (permanent) bypass raises the return temperature, which adversely affects heat recovery by condensing boilers.
 
The ABV method is more energy-efficient than the always-open gate valve. This is because the gate valve (permanent) bypass raises the return temperature, which adversely affects heat recovery by condensing boilers.
Hi, I figured out that there is a radiator in the upstairs zone (none noisy zone) with no TRV, which i guess acts as a by pass. I guess I will end up getting an ABV anyway, and just have two.
 
The ABV method is more energy-efficient than the always-open gate valve. This is because the gate valve (permanent) bypass raises the return temperature, which adversely affects heat recovery by condensing boilers.
It seems the bypass pipe with the current gate valve is just 15mm so I called the boiler company (Ideal) to ask is this ok or should it be 22mm. Id replace it to 22mm if needed when. But ideal refuse to advise as I am not gas registered.
 
Yes
 

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