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CH Pump Valve - converting to male BSP

Discuss CH Pump Valve - converting to male BSP in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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marshr02

Hi there - bought a pegler CH pump valve - 1 1/2" to 22mm compression fitting (are there any other with difference connections). Thought that I could remove the compression nut and olive and connect to a 3/4" BSP female coupler - but the screw thread won't engage in the coupler. I've done this before with 15mm compression fittings. Thanks for any help...
 
Okay - will check this out. I came on this for technical advice, and I may just have come away with something at last.
 
A bath mixer valve. Interesting.
Okay - will check this out. I came on this for technical advice, and I may just have come away with something at last. YES you're right - no idea why I settled on this yonks ago - the Heatguard UFH Blending Valve looks the right one though?
 
You're getting plenty of advice friend. We've seen lots of UFH lash ups in the past.

Why should we believe yours is any different?
 
You're getting plenty of advice friend. We've seen lots of UFH lash ups in the past.

Why should we believe yours is any different?
I guess I've looked at the off the shelf designs, particularly those that aim to fit into a hybrid system with radiators and made an attempt to replicate this to suit my slightly smaller scale. I'm not proposing to do ANYTHING different in principle. Clearly the blending valve *may* be the wrong one (I believe Heatguard touted their TMV2 valve as also suitable for UFH systems about 5 years ago before coming up with a dedicated valve able to take higher flow rates (much more than I need) - so I still feel the TMV2 valve would be okay if pushed) So why could my system go wrong - poor workmanship, basic principles wrong, or wrong items selected?
 
ive no problem with someone making up a manifold especially as it sounds like he has incorporated all the necessary parts i agree that manifolds are over priced for what they are especially for small areas
ok he has come across a problem he didnt expecct thats why he has come here
either we make this forum a closed shop or we give advice we cant have it both ways
to the op unfortunately 22mm fittings dont have 3/4 threads on them but you can get pump cons with 3/4 threads try a good merchants
Cheers. I'll make an admission. I bought the blending valve about 5 years ago, it's taken this long to lay a concrete floor with insulation!! The invoice, and instructions call it an UFH Blending valve - the item itself is labelled TMV2. So do at the moment I'm keen to see if I should get the newer one?
 
ive no problem with someone making up a manifold especially as it sounds like he has incorporated all the necessary parts i agree that manifolds are over priced for what they are especially for small areas
ok he has come across a problem he didnt expecct thats why he has come here
either we make this forum a closed shop or we give advice we cant have it both ways
to the op unfortunately 22mm fittings dont have 3/4 threads on them but you can get pump cons with 3/4 threads try a good merchants

Nearly missed that you changed your post.

Who said it's a closed shop. Only saying to do it right.

At least he knows now that there is a possibility that he doesn't have the right blending valve.
 
Nearly missed that you changed your post.

Who said it's a closed shop. Only saying to do it right.

At least he knows now that there is a possibility that he doesn't have the right blending valve.
Simon. See my posts on the Heatguard TMV2. It may have been designed for DHW originally, and has a fast response to suit anti-scalding needs BUT 5 years ago this is what was provided to me under the title "UFH blending valve - I'm guessing it was after this that Heatguard came up with the dedicated product that I would assume isn't fast response so can have a large internal bore to handle the high flow rates of a large UFH installation. I would definitely be concerned if using a closed system product for DHW as it would likely have corrosion problems, but the other way?? cheers
 
Is there a question in there?
Yes. Putting a component into a closed heating system with inhibitors or sim. that was designed to take fresh water raises common sense alarm bells - any opinion here. The other bits, temp output range, and flow rate to suit my loading I'm satisfied are okay
 
Yes. Putting a component into a closed heating system with inhibitors or sim. that was designed to take fresh water raises common sense alarm bells - any opinion here. The other bits, temp output range, and flow rate to suit my loading I'm satisfied are okay

I'd be more concerned the other way round. If in the 5 years since you bought the original valve they have decided to produce a dedicated unit then I would suggest you use the new one, if only for peace of mind.
 
I'd be more concerned the other way round. If in the 5 years since you bought the original valve they have decided to produce a dedicated unit then I would suggest you use the new one, if only for peace of mind.
I'm going to contact Reliance tech dept tomorrow to check.
 
Okay. Think this thread is coming to a close. Thanks for the replies, thanks Simon (in the end:D). Noticed a lot a negative comments, which themselves were 'liked' by a lot of people - which actually is really unpleasant being on the end of. If anyone knows a good cheap supplier of small scale manifolds then I would be interested. While this fairly simple technology is still sold at a large premium then I still think if required I will make my own, following similar principles. I'll try to remember to put a picture of the cats sleeping on the 25 degree screed for 'BOD' whoever you are....
 
Finally finished reading this thread. There is little comparison other than UFH. This bloke is trying something very unorthodox, whereas I'm just replicating well established principles. Some of the comments smacked of bullying to me. On a constructive note, feeding UFH off the return of the last rad is interesting...clearly the pipes should have been pressurised during screeding, and some controls need to be in place to prevent overheating, but in some properties the intermittent nature of rad heating would be offset by the thermal inertia of the building structure. Anyhow there's my open mind going off again....:sunny:
 
Wow. I'm going to add one last thing

These are refered to as pump unions and not valves

I'm not going to argue with a homeowner over their UFH design
 
Wow. I'm going to add one last thing

These are refered to as pump unions and not valves

I'm not going to argue with a homeowner over their UFH design
Not sure what being a homeowner has to do with anything, other than unintentionally patronising. Back to facts, principles etc...
 
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I'm adding this post for the sake of completeness - to make the forum more useful :wink_smile:. I actually found a cheap off the shelf pump & manifold set off ebay - total cost £260 for two zones. Clearly this is good value and prices have become more sensible since I last checked. It has all the components I was going to fit, in all the same order etc it's just now become worth buying rather than making up.
 
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