installing a back boiler oil link up in a bungalow, anyway around it?

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installing a back boiler oil link up in a bungalow, anyway around it?

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Mr Flux

Hay guys i have never attempted a back boiler oil link up before, i have a customer who has purchased a back boiler wood burning stove and is looking to link it up 2 the oil heating to heat the water and rads! Only problems is that its a bungalow and the hwc is on the same floor as the stove so have no way of installing a gravity circuit to the stove! i was thinking of just fully pumping the system and linking the flow and return from the stove into the boiler flow and returns just where they enter the building (obviously installing all the necessary non return valves! Obviously doing it this way is abit dodgy incase of power faiure and the pump fail to operate, causeing the system to pump over into the f &e but i cant see this being a major problem??? any advice guys, has any1 installed a back boiler which is fully pumped????
 
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What way do you have it piped? Have you used 4 pipes, ( 2 for gravity, normally 28mm & 2 for pumped circuit).
The gravity pipes should have a vent on flow & a feed on return. No valves or pump.
 
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What way do you have it piped? Have you used 4 pipes, ( 2 for gravity, normally 28mm & 2 for pumped circuit).
The gravity pipes should have a vent on flow & a feed on return. No valves or pump.
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no i went the fully pumped route customer didnt like the idea of his new wooden floors being ripped up, he was happy enough to go ahead with it fully pumped! i ust have 2 pipes going to stove and i have the cold feed and the vent coming off the pipes when the enter the roofspace! The pump isnt blocking the vent as it is on the return to the boiler, i have a 22mm vent and cold feed coming off the flow pipework 100mm apart!
 
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Not a way I would think of doing it. Assume you took the pipes to cylinder & then rads. That means the pump is on the gravity return, near to boiler?
 
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Fit a gravity heat leak rad of the correct size, if the power goes off the heat has somewere to go, it is not a requirement to have gravity to the cylnder as long as you can get rid of the heat in a rad
 
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I would advise a fire to have a gravity circuit bare minimum with flow having a vent, return a feed pipe. Some systems have been done with a pumped circuit teed to gravity circuit. At least this is not dangerous.
 
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Not a way I would think of doing it. Assume you took the pipes to cylinder & then rads. That means the pump is on the gravity return, near to boiler?
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Gravity return? as i said there is no gravity circuit, the two pipes just link into the existing central heating pipework where te flow and return enter the property! yea the pump is on the return to the stove near the stove and feed and expansion is on the flow from the stove???
 
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Water being heated from a fire must rise, as on a gravity circuit, or be pumped constantly, BUT, you can't rely on a pump & you really shouldn't have valves on gravity pipes in case they fail or some idiot closes one accidentally. Hence gravity is the only way. If fire is going full belt & the pump stops for any reason, the boiler will come under a lot pressure, & I wouldn't want to be in the house.
The stove manufacturer will not accept your install, I am sure.
 
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Mr Flux said:
cheers, whats wrong them both on the flow tho?
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Why are you doing work that you obviously have no experience in. The key is safety first and it appears from your posts that it is not safe.
You'd have been better teaming up with somebody with good experience of safe installs, would have set you up a treat. Everybody's gotta learn somehow.
 
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More important is, where is this stove installed? .... Just in case it is in a house next door to me! Lol! :grin:
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That's what I was thinking too lol
Glad it's not near me
Mr flux I guess you plumb in the south as any decent plumber would not do that in the north
 
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SimonG said:
Why are you doing work that you obviously have no experience in. The key is safety first and it appears from your posts that it is not safe.
You'd have been better teaming up with somebody with good experience of safe installs, would have set you up a treat. Everybody's gotta learn somehow.
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Connect a solid fuel boiler up with a vent and no cold feed/expansion the water will simply boil off. I know that because I've done it.
After that its stress relief time for the welds.
Did you read what peteheat wrote on the bs6700 thread? That guy knows his stuff.
 
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Nordio said:
Connect a solid fuel boiler up with a vent and no cold feed/expansion the water will simply boil off. I know that because I've done it.
After that its stress relief time for the welds.
Did you read what peteheat wrote on the bs6700 thread? That guy knows his stuff.
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bunch of grumpy owl men thats what i say! lol
 
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Nordio said:
Connect a solid fuel boiler up with a vent and no cold feed/expansion the water will simply boil off. I know that because I've done it.
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Where is it going to boil off to if you seal it?
There are ways to do this properly as i'm sure you are aware but none are yet approved for use in the uk.
Do what ever you feel right for you but don't encourage others who know no better to indulge in your experiments.
 
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If a stove with thermostat control you need an heat leak rad of at least 10% what size for a stove with no control at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Where is it going to boil off to if you seal it?
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Through the vent.

There are ways to do this properly as i'm sure you are aware but none are yet approved for use in the uk.
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Broseley fires have scws approved for use in the uk.

Do what ever you feel right for you but don't encourage others who know no better to indulge in your experiments.
Click to expand...

What experiments?
 
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